If the bulb companies are shipping to Zone 5 in mid-October, wonder when they will get around to me? I have placed a large order with one company and a small one with another and requested ship dates in September. Neither has notified me that they are unable to meet those dates. Since the soil temperature here seldom falls below freezing anymore, I like to pre-chill the bulbs before planting to increase the possibility that I will see some nice flowers in the spring. fayraven...I completely agree with you regarding any company that charges your credit card when the order is placed. They were removed from my list a long time ago. I consider that extremely poor business practice, especially since they don't have the merchandise in stock and can't reserve it for you. The big box stores have bulbs in stock now, wonder why their harvest wasn't delayed? Have those been in cold storage for a year? Hmmm!

I don't know if that would work...for either the eggs or the Milkweed. I can't see how a week to ten days would be enough time for a plant to gain enough foliage if it is only a teeny seedling to begin with. I doubt it could support a caterpillar for very long even if you were able to halt the progress of the egg. Monarchs go into a state of diapause as adult butterflies. I'd presume that refrigerating the eggs may dry them out. I don't know though...just thinking of what I've seen during the winter here in Southern California. Perhaps ladobe can provide us his experienced, scientific research-based input.

Thanks for reporting back. I wasn't clear on the original question, was it you wanted to suspend growth (vegetative and flowering), or just suspend flowering. It seems to jump around between the two ideas. The best non-destructive way I can think of to slow indeterminate growth is not to pinch anything except a few tip ends that might get messy if allowed to grow, sort of the normal pinching some do to keep it manageable and direct the plant's energies. Then the only way I know is to encourage fruiting by giving the plant extra care and optimal moisture, pollination, etc. Then rather than removing the tomatoes, it is the exact opposite: develop them and let the caretakers have them. Because I read this that you want to slow down the plants and the best way is to give them a full fruit load. Then just before you go, remove a few of the large leaves below that get full sunlight, the ones we love best, and you have cut your plant's energy source drastically. That will give the lull of the time you need if the objective is to have plants that grow the least mess by the time you're back. All the other suggestions were focused on removing plant load but keeping the plant on its roll. Big difference to me. Otherwise, and I don't recommend this but just through it out there to stir the pot. Get a trowel and make an equilateral triangle (three insertions) about 4 inches away from the stem as deep as you can go, covering about 25% of the arc. That will stunt and shock the plants and perhaps they will never be all they can be, but more than likely it will get the desired effect, because you have disrupted (and shocked) the logistics of production. This is all taboo to do, but then again, so is leaving big tomato plants unattended for a month which you have slaved over and filled with TLC... (I recommend going the fruit load route). Oh, as far as tucking in cages frequency, I have to do it every second day or risk snapping side shoots. I have six inch square hole mesh. This frequency will depend on your hole size, but I could never get away with a week during peak growing time. More like four days and a 33% break ratio for my set up at this point. However yours will be about 2 1/2 ft I think, and mine are about 5 now, so twice a week would be my guess. Then again what do you care if a few growing tips get broken as they tuck the longer guys. That is the idea anyways if I follow :-) Cheers PC

Oops, just had to delete a post about New Zealand Spinach seeds which I belatedly realized is not what you were asking about. I've not grown Malabar Spinach but did find some info in my go-to seed saving book, Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth. Here's some info from the book, "..one of the messiest plants for seed savers. Each fully ripe seed is encased in a black fruit that is firmly attached to the branch of the plant....In long season climates, some of the fruits will dry around the seeds. These can be harvested without any further cleaning.....very important that the seed be thoroughly dry,...or mold can form." "In most areas of the US, the purplish black fruits must be picked individually....then placed in a metal strainer...partially submerged in a bowl of soapy water. When rubbed against the sides of the strainer, the fruits disintegrate, exposing the seeds...RInse the seeds in clear water and...dry the seeds on a glass or ceramic plate...never dried in direct sun or in an oven. Stir...to ensure even drying...seeds will turn light tan when completely dry." "Seed production begins at about 100 days but viability is low at that time. A frost-free season of 150 days or more is recommended for quality seed production." Perhaps early harvest is a factor in germination issues you have experienced. It is a good reason to leave yours on the plant longer rather than shorter periods of time. "Locations in full sun will produce the strongest plants, which should be thinned to 12-18 inches apart for adequate growth prior to seed set." Sounds like greater plant strength helps seed production and viability. "Seeds germinate best at temperature of 80 degrees F. and above. Germination is poor below 75 degrees F. Germination is variable , but usually occurs in 10-12 days." Perhaps low soil temps are giving you low and possibly slow germination. I'd need to use a heat mat with covered seed trays to get this to germinate in my house in the spring. Hope this info gives you some ideas for successful growing next year. After reading about all of this, I'm surprised that my daughter had volunteer Malabar Spinach plants show up in a community garden plot in Pennsylvania in an area with a short growing season, very cold winters, and cool springs. I guess it was an unusual year or she was just lucky :)