Keepitlow:

It will be difficult for anyone to offer you helpful advice unless you are more specific about the types of rootstock you have, and the cultivars growing on them.

There is quite a size range in the dwarf apple rootstock group alone, as well as those classified as semi-dwarf. And, of course, a tree on any rootstock can be pruned frequently, including in the summer, to control its size. Peach and plum trees sold on "dwarf" and "semi-dwarf" rootstocks will usually become quite large without frequent pruning. So if you want to keep your trees small, and they are not cooperating, pruning is the way to do it. If your trees are not developing enough spreading side branches, which are the most productive and easiest to work with, spread the branches out with spreaders or by tying them down.

Many peach and plum trees sold as "dwarfs" or "semi-dwarfs" have very little dwarfing that anyone can notice.

I have some vigorous apple varieties, such as Spigold, that would easily reach 25 feet tall on the semi-dwarf rootstock M-7 without severe annual pruning. Other varieties, such as Goldrush and Ashmead's Kernel, on the same rootstocks, are much easier to control at under 12 feet. That's where I try to keep all my trees, both pome and stone fruits, for very good reasons which include spraying, thinning, and bagging in the case of apples.

When you cite your source of info as "I was told", it is always nice to know who did the telling.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

'I was told'...came from an old thread here Don.

Here is what the nursery told me:

"apples are on M26, peaches and nectarines on Lovell, cherries on Mazzard, pears on seedling"

They were not clear if the Asian pears / Europe pears use the same rootstock above. And did not give me info on the plums. I will rewrite them for the info.

I'm wondering if we keep the tree cut back and short on leaves. Then the tree does not make lots of sun energy, so it stays small. Is that right Don? Or is it more rootstock related?

Here is other info

Asian & Europe Pears - OHF97 and OHF333

Japanese & Europe Plums - Marianna and red leaf seedling

Im an amateur, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

I'm using the "backyard orchard culture" method for my many fruit trees. This comes from the Don Wilson Nurseries in California, but it seems to work very nicely in my climate in SW Washington (Zone 8 Maritime). I'm under the impression that the trees don't need to be on a super-dwarfing rootstock, you just need to be diligent especially with summer pruning.

This method is working well for me for sweet cherries, apples, pears, on semi-dwarfing stock. I have apples on minidwarfing stock, they don't need such judicious pruning. I keep figs at the same size, with the same method, and these are cutting-grown so not on any special rootstock.

Read the link. I suspect you need to prune back to 6 or 7 feet, keep the center pruned open, and summer prune any growth that gets above where your hand can reach.

Again Im no expert, but it's working for me for a variety of fruit species on a variety of rootstocks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Backyard Orchard Culture

The Backyard Orchard Culture uses a few different factors to reduce vigor and prevent a tree from reaching a maximum size (i.e. dwarfing). If they are planted out in the middle of an open field with good soil and supplied with nutrients, it doesn't significantly dwarf.

I only mention this b/c I've seen pics of "backyards" that are several acres. I wish they would change it to "Urban Backyard" or another word that imparts the same meaning.

The link from Dave Wilson site is good about teaching the basics of summer pruning (which Don will usually explain) which in general will accomplish what you need.

I'm skeptical about the attempt to keep a Mazzard cherry at 8 feet, with summer pruning, and still have a viable canopy for fruiting -- that was also confirm to me by Ed from Dave Wilson.

After that link, googling for Summer Pruning fruit trees (or just summer pruning) in this forum and you should find quite a bit.