Because Asians are so precocious there is not so much gained by pruning by ratios as long as branches are smaller than trunk and don't starve the leader if you intend to keep the tree central leader. Pear branches are also less prone to breakage because of sharp angles as other species but you still probably would want the branches spread. If branches are too thick it becomes more difficult to spread them without bending the leader instead of the branch. A hinge can help for this.

Languard- I'm no professional, and there surely are more knowledgeable folks on this forum, but from what I see and my limited experience there are a couple things that come to mind. Your pear looks like it's laterals are overtaking the central leader in vigor. Top the central leader to promote more branching, then save the ones that balance the canopy and allow light penetration down below. You'll need to bend some of the lower branches to just 15degrees above horizontal eventually and keep them there through a season in order to form a balanced pyramidally shaped scaffold and get pears quicker. Scaffold creation- Observe the vigor(girth of your mid level branches) and length should be less than the lower branches. #2 from the top is becoming dominant, and maybe it's the picture, Cut it back to 3/4"stub(there maybe replacement branches you might want to generate). Ideally you want 3-4 main lower branches that fork as they extend, and then maybe fork again. I keep my sets of laterals 18" apart horizontally along the main stem. Don't be afraid to prune it back cause it'll bounce back quickly and then you'll know where you're heading. Or cut off stubby and the other lower one and go with the next set as your lower branches. 6" wont make a difference much. Cut the 2 remaining lateral in 1/2, and tie down to just above horizontal and train the branches outwards. That may be the least complicated solution. Have fun!

Thank you all for your help. All except the Spring Satin are on Citation. The Spring Satin is from Isons, where there is no mention of rootstock and a couple of emails to them went unanswered. Their site says it gets 10-12 feet tall. All were bare root, planted in the last several weeks-- I got lucky with a couple of breaks in the cold. I have read a bunch on Dave Wilson's techniques, as well as the critiques here. I am not really going for that per se. Rather, I was planning to summer prune to keep them in check. I think mod central leader is my best bet to keep the footprint as small as possible. Production is not a huge issue, as I do not have any real storage options yet. Although my 7-year old daughter can really do a number on plums. It is wise to not stand between her and a bowl of them. Same for my son and a bowl of blueberries. If they can eat all the fruit from these trees/bushes, I may have to get a second job... Thanks again.

I'm no expert...still a novice, but I have a couple Asian Pears that are 3 or 4 years old. The biggest thing I've had to do was train the branches to grow some direction other than straight up. You can do this by tying them down, or using a branch spreader, or a clothes pin. It looks like the lower branches on the right side are off to a good start. I'd say keep all the branches as low as possible without them causing you troubles, like the lawnmower, the dog, the kid, etc.