Pear tree grafting, scions

10 years ago

Hi all,
I am interested in using cleft grafting to rework an old worthless pear tree into something useful. The tree is a >15 y old, >20 ft tall tree that was supposed to be a Sheldon or Chapin pear from Southmeadow Fruitgarden, but I got burned by a couple other trees from them at the same time. It produces a few small hard ugly tasteless fruit yearly, mostly they all drop off by late July. I have never done cleft grafting, but have read some online references and seen a few online videos about it. I plan to cut the branches back to stub and graft it over to at least a couple varieties. I have a few questions:

1. What is the largest size branch I can graft to?

2. Can Asian Pears be grafted successfully onto a Euro type?

3. Do you expect to get a lot of dormant buds which send out shoots and watersprouts that need to be kept pruned off?

4. Do you suggest leaving a 'nurse branch'? I have read varying suggestions.

5. Suggestions for sources for scion wood this late in the season? Anyone willing to trade or send some for costs, postage? I have only one other pear, a Stark Delicious (boy they overuse that variety name), which is pretty good quality. Looking for fireblight resistance, lost a tree in past due to that disease.

Thanks to all for any suggestions!

This post was edited by eboone on Wed, Mar 12, 14 at 14:19

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Comments (7)

JesseSt
10 years ago
1. I use the cleft graft on branches up to 3", also look into the oblique cleft graft where the stock isnt split. Branches or trunks larger than that are usually rind grafted.
2. Asian pears can have delayed compatibility issues with pyrus communis; european types, with some exceptions such as 'Ya Li' which is compatible.
3. If you cut the stock back hard, you'll get some vigorous regrowth. Pinching back the stock's suckers should send that energy to the scions and you can get 6'+ of growth from one dormant scion bud.
4. Leaving a nurse branch or two in the lower portion of the tree is a good idea. It will help sustain the root system, and could be a pollen source later on.
5. I could provide you with pear scion wood, I've got about a dozen varieties and am going to a scion exchange at the end of the month. Any particular qualities you're looking for besides FB resistance?
eboone_gw
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks for the response.

What do you like to use to cover the exposed wood and the cleft? Grafting wax? Grafting compound?
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JesseSt
10 years ago
I use Tree-Cote, an tar emulsion, to seal the end of scions, stumps, and graft unions and keep them from drying out.
marknmt
10 years ago
I've used roofing tar but prefer toilet bowl wax- Johnny Rings are used to seat toilets and the wax is perfect. First heard about it here.
eboone_gw
Original Author
10 years ago
Bringing back this recent thread for another question.

In cleft grafting, how much time can pass between when the brach was cut back until the graft is made? I pruned back some of the pear branches a few weeks ago, and my scions are expected to be delivered this week. Should I make a 'fresh cut' back along the remaining branch or should the 2 1/2 - 3 week old cuts be OK?
marknmt
10 years ago
Interesting question, and I don't know the answer. But for sure it should be easy enough to tell with close examination of the cambium- and I suspect that 1/4" or so back from the cut the cambium will be good.

Still, why not cut off 1/2" if there's any question?
fruitloversc
10 years ago
eboone, by any chance has this tree sent up any root sprouts? If you have extra scion wood splice graft a couple of the shoots as a back up plan just in case your cleft or bark grafts don't take.Also try doing during a couple days you aren't expecting rain. If no choice, spray the cuts with a disenfectent to keep from introducing disease.

Pear tree grafting, scions

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Pear tree grafting, scions

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JesseSt

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