Growing out rootstock/seedling peaches
john_in_sc
14 years ago
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
14 years agojohn_in_sc
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone know of a source for peach rootstocks?
Comments (4)Don't know where you can get some grafting material, however you are on a short time frame here. Can you sacrifice a small branch and use the bark from it to make your bridge grafts? Or, any other peach trees nearby which you could get some material from?...See MorePropagating Rootstock for Grafting Peach Trees
Comments (4)I just planted some redleaf today, I think its a bit far to send to you tho. I would contact a stonefruit nursery and ask for one. I gave lots of rootstocks away when I had the business I sold plenty as well. They will grow true to type if you get a rootstock so then just harvest the seeds. It took me 15 years to work out the best way to germinate the things. If you get some seeds I will let you know...See MorePeach rootstocks
Comments (15)Carla: Peach, nectarine and apricot are harder to T-bud than apple or cherry because the bark is thinner and more fragile. The guy in the video was rather ham handed in my opinion. Doing the T-bud he tore up the bark on the rootstock. I open the T with my thumbnail a small amount, just enough to get the bud to slid in from the top. You don't open up the T and ploop the bud in place, you slid it in from the top. I also take the wood out of the bud. This helps the bud slid in easier but is only essential on small diameter wood where it gives a much better fit of cambium layers. Then I wrap with rubber budding strips. They work great. Key point: bark MUST BE SLIPPING on the rootstock to T-bud. If you need to remove the wood from the bud, then bark must be slipping on the scion. It takes a certain amount of dexterity to fit everything together with minimum damage to bark, cambium, and bud. If the bark isn't slipping well, things get tore up and the cambium layer isn't fully exposed. In that case I quit and give the tree a good watering. Water is the key to T-budding because that is what causes the bark to slip. I get ~95% takes on T budding even with the stonefruit and with small diameter wood, the hardest to work with. I got about 85-90% takes on whip and tongue this spring. Experience is the best teacher so keep trying. The Fruitnut...See MoreWhat is the best rootstock for fruit trees? *frustrated*
Comments (11)drew- Peaches here ooze (the trunks) like crazy... My thought has always been its due to winter injury. Maybe its cold days like today (4F and sunny) and cold nights... Remember...this area is not for growing peaches (3 out of 5 winters probably drop to -20F or colder). I'm pushing my luck and its why i grow in containers. I still have a few peaches out in the yard (seedlings) but don't expect much out of them. I actually had a peach seedling (nectarine i found out later) make it through a winter here and flower...the fruit was probably a California grown nectarine...i almost wonder if a seedling of Contender or Reliance would be even hardier...who knows. Olpea- You're probably right. I'm sure the differences to a home grower are minimal. On a commercial scale i'm sure a few more pounds per tree can make a lot of difference. I just thought i'd mention it because i've come across it a few times when researching rootstocks. I personally would lean towards Citation over the others in a colder climate. I have Krmysk coming from Raintree and plan on giving that a shot with some multigrafted fruit trees. The problem with Citation is that is not available! I plan on trying Krymsk or a plum seedling of some...See Moreolpea
14 years agogonebananas_gw
14 years agojohn_in_sc
14 years agojohn_in_sc
13 years agoScott F Smith
13 years agojohn_in_sc
13 years agoolpea
13 years agomelvinn
13 years agoScott F Smith
13 years agoolpea
13 years agojohn_in_sc
13 years agoScott F Smith
13 years agojohn_in_sc
13 years agoScott F Smith
13 years ago
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