Jason, peaches are much harder to graft than most other fruits. They are picky in many dimensions so it can be hard to pinpoint the failure. You need temps to be highs in the 75-85F range, they don't like it too hot or too cold. Wrap in alu foil to help even out the temps (shiny side out). Grafting wax is usually OK but if you are not careful you can get it in the graft by mistake. I use parafilm to avoid this. You also need to completely seal the scion, either put grafting wax all over it or use parafilm or doc farewells (I use the latter). Sealing keeps it from drying out, it can take longer to get a take and you don't want it drying out while its mid-process. Lastly do 3-4 of each variety to increase the odds. Its easier to do multiple grafts on the same big stock if you use bark grafts - I can get 4-6 on one stock. Scott

I've always felt that I needed the good mechanical pull that a budding rubber provides, and to keep it from drying out I think it needs to be sealed with parafilm or wax. Parafilm is my first choice because it breathes a little. But it's not enough by itself to make me feel secure! I used the Ace rubber tape this year on clefts and felt like it worked really well. Rubber tape or bands or rubbers all seem good to me. I think that if you use the wide budding rubbers or tape and overlap thoroughly then the parafilm/wax precaution is probably redundant, but it's cheap redundancy and I do it. I use wide and long rubbers also because it's easier to wrap them off- you have so much to work with, and they're cheap enough that you can afford to cut off excess. Like MiHiGirl I'm in the Rockies, but not at a mile high! We're at 3200 ft, give or take a couple of feet. But it's definitely an arid environment: we get about 12-13 inches total precip per year.

I am never quite sure where you are located. Greece? Canada? There are many nurseries in the USA that sell rootstock. Some say their rootstock is certified, some don't. But there are lots of places to purchase. If you bought virus free trees, they might still be virus free, or they might have been infected during the time you've owned them. I would say that if you are grafting for your own use and you are happy with the way your own trees are growing, then it is fine to use your own trees for scion material. I can tell you from my own experience that trees bought from nurseries can arrive already diseased. I am sure I am not the only one who has received the occasional diseased tree. An internet acquaintance who does a lot of grafting has introduced viruses into his own orchard from receiving infected scion wood. If virus free is really important to you, then purchasing certified rootstock and certified scion wood is the only way to go.

Yes, I believe we get ours from Adams County Nursery, too. So I second that. Umm . . . speaking of rootstocks. I am thinking about propagating flowering shrubs by grafting (just for the fun and experience of it mostly). My problem is figuring out what rootstock is compatible with what scion wood. Can anyone name a website or possibly a nursery that I could write to for this information? Thanks a bunch!