Pick out as many larger rocks as possible and add a lot of organic matter like compost or composted manure.

Jon

Well, your situation is neither unique nor a show-stopper. There are two ways of going about solving the problem, and hatchjon has suggested one: ammending with organic matter. The reason some suggest this is because they have been told, or read, or observed through experience that organic matter improves tilth, drainage, and fertility. While this is not incorrect, it is not necessarily the case for all soils in all locations. For instance, adding organic matter to a sandy soil will do little to help because a full season of irrigation and rain will wash away most of the OM ammendment (unless we are talking about over 50% additions, but that would be a few truckloads). With heavy clay, organic matter ammendments are going to have difficulty penetrating the clay, and will likely suffer the same problems as with the sand. If you are blessed with a sandy-loam, or a sandy-clay soil, then yes, generous amounts of organic matter will make a difference in the long run.

I say in the long run, because you will need to add generous amounts of compost/OM each year for the first 3 to 5 years. The reason being that as the OM is broken down, it is carried into the subsoil by erosion and by soil organisms (including worms). This does create a better tilth in theory, but in practice those yards of compost that you added last year will be so dispersed through the large volume of soil in various strata that it will seem to have made little progress. Each year, adding a not insignificant amount of OM, you will see some progress. Finally, after 3 to 5 years, you will probably stabilize the soil at around 3-5% OM level, with a reasonable improvement in the soil structure.

If you can wait and have the patience (and the time to till in a few yards of compost every year) then by all means go ahead.

If you can't, there is an easier solution, albeit more expensive and less "romantic" - have a dumptruck dump half a dozen yards of sandy-loam triple-mix garden soil onto your plot, and build some raised beds. They don't need to be the fancy boxed beds, and they don't need to be very deep. 8-10 inches should suffice. Then, at the beginning and end of each year, you mix in a few inches of compost/OM into the surface. Combine that with a good, complete organic fertilizer and you will have some soil to be proud of. The maintenance of that soil is important, but that is another discussion altogether.

Best of luck!
Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: Complete Organic Fertilizer Recipe

I wouldn't call adding composted manure to my garden "romantic", it's a lot of work. You've got a strange take on things m_lorne!
Anyhow, adding compost and composted manure every year is a great practice that has served me well. I use municipal compost which is free in my town, rabbit manure from a rabbit breeder a few miles away (also free), and composted yard and kitchen waste from my house and yard (you guessed it, free). The only cost involved are transportation and labor. I have time to work hard and I actually enjoy the process.
m lorne suggests raised beds which look nice and work. However, raised beds have some drawbacks as well.
Raising beds will increase the drainage of your garden and make for more frequent irrigation.
Raised beds cost money to install. You will need to construct the beds from wood, concrete, plastic etc. Buying garden soil costs a lot of money and as m_lorne notes "The maintenance of that soil is important" so you will still have to add organic matter every year.
m-lorne states that organic matter will decompose quickly in sandy soils and this is true (especially in hot climates). However, if you add a lot to begin with and continue every year you'll be good. M_lornes method requires trucking in a half dozen yards of soil and mine requires you bring in lots of organic matter as you already have enough dirt.

So I think it's a matter of how much work you wish to put into it versus how much money you want to spend. I'm usually light on money so I opt for the labor.

Jon

Note: If you're going to buy soil make VERY certain what you're getting.

We spent $40 on two loads of 50-50 topsoil/compost mix from a well-regarded local nursery to fill a set of raised beds.

The soil component is the same, potassium-deficient, nearly-pure quartz sand we have as our regular soil. The compost component is at least 50% coarse wood -- more like half-decomposed wood chip mulch than true compost.

We may buy more soil, since we have to fill the raised beds with something, but were certainly not buying any more aged wood-chip mulch at compost prices.

Jon,

I agree with you on many points. If one has easy and cheap access to compost and OM, then by all means go that way. As for the raised beds, there is really no need to box them in. I have been using non-enclosed beds for quite some time with great success. They are really just wide, elongated hills.

And yes, beware of what and where you buy. Not all "garden" soil is created equally. Indeed, the best "garden" soil is that which is created in the garden, with care and with patience. Of course, once you've done that, why would you want to sell it, and could you really get a good price for it?

I only suggested trucking in the soil because the poster indicated he/she was late and short on time.

Michael

As for the raised beds, there is really no need to box them in.

Actually there *may* be a reason to frame in raised beds and that is erosion control. Folks living on flat land may not need to worry much about this, but for those who live on less than flat land don't underestimate the effect of run off water.

I live on a ridge and the area I once had a ground garden in is on land with perhaps a 5 degree slope or less. However, the overall grade of the neighborhood is more of a 15 degree slope. When it rains hard the water runs fast and erodes soil instantly. When I first moved here and had the yard seeded with grass the very first hard rain washed everything into the neighbor's yard.

So, I agree that if erosion isn't a concern, framing in the beds isn't critical, but please take water run off into consideration.

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have a soil that is low on clay I know that. I also live in a flat neighborhood so erosion isn't that much of a problem. I guess I will set aside a few hours to sift out the bigger rocks and work in some organic matter to create better growing conditions. I know of a nursery just a few miles away that sells some reportedly good mix. I know they have it in bags but I will see if they also have it by the yard. I think I will need about 1.5 to 2 yards in total to create some proper mix in my yard. Thanks again everybody for the help. I am glad to receive the advice that is for sure.

Be sure to visit the soil/compost forum.

You might want to consider preparing a garden bed for next year instead of trying to plant this year. Test the soil, prepare the garden bed, and plant a cover crop.