In the spring of 2012, I attempted to graft a Pear scion onto my apple tree using Winter Banana Apple as an inter stem. (All of he grafting i do is "Whip and Tongue" grafts wrapped in grafting tape. I then coat the wrapped union with grafting wax) The parent branch was a Winesap Apple branch with a grafted Winter Banana Apple scion from a few years before. (I actually have two of these paired branches.) I then attempted to graft two "Kieffer" Pear scions onto my two Winter Banana Apple inter stems. The "Kieffer" Pear scions started to grow, but died a few weeks later. This spring (2014) I attempted to graft this Apple / Pear union again using the same Winter Banana Apple inter stems. I had just enough branch on my Winter Banana branches to try this experiment one more time. This time around, I used "Sunrise Pear" scionwood. The grafting was a screaming success! (I had enough "Sunrise Pear" scionwood to graft two branches onto my apple tree, and two more onto an ornamental pear. All four pear grafts were a success!) I have no idea why this experiment failed in 2012 and was a success in 2014. I do not know if it had to do with the pear variety used, or if it had to do with environmental circumstances. I will re-post in 2015 with an update. There are a few different treads on this subject so I will be re-posting on those threats also. Below are pictures taken on 07/27/2014.

You might be able to try nicking and notching to regulate growth. Can someone else comment on how well this works with branches, not just buds? I'm pretty new, but I'm trying it this year... Are you familiar with apical dominance of trees? Growth is stronger on branches that are higher up and more vertically oriented, and this is regulated by inhibitory plant hormones from the top down. Notching: remove a small crescent-shaped area of bark ABOVE a bud. This stimulates that shoot's growth by interrupting inhibitory signals from the top. Nicking: a similar cut BELOW a bud to weaken growth of that shoot by restricting nutrients, which travel upwards. I got this from an excellent fruit training book, American Horticultural Society Pruning & Training (Link below). If you use the Amazon "Look Inside" feature and search for nicking and notching, you can see pictures -- the whole book is great. Now maybe someone with practical experience can comment on if this works for branches, not just buds. Here is a link that might be useful: Amazon book link: Pruning & Training

I know they graft European pears onto quince, because that is what my Bosc is clearly grafted on. Definitely quince foliage from the persistent suckers that emerge at or near ground level. I would think Asian pear would work as well on quince. I was never very successful getting a decent crop of quinces until last year and especially this year when I found out about the Triazicide Once and Done from this forum. I grew nearly perfect, worm free quinces this year. A couple of coddling moths in a handful of the cores, but just a few, but, I slacked off spraying after about late July. Had I done just one early-mid-August spray, they probably would have been pristine. Not complaining, I got way too many as it was.

Tony, thank you for the advice! I've read many of your posts on this forum, and your experience and talent are amazing! I have been browsing catalogs. Starks has Yates and Prok, and Burnt Ridge has some too. I might have room for one. They start very small. i sent Burnt Ridge an email about their scion. I have a feeling that will bear, before the small freestanding trees will bear. I grafted pollenizing varieties of plums onto self sterile ones, for better fruit production. I've thought about growing those seeds. So I could see that working like you describe for the Ukranian varieties. Seems like a clever method! Thank you again for the reply! Daniel