I know they graft European pears onto quince, because that is what my Bosc is clearly grafted on. Definitely quince foliage from the persistent suckers that emerge at or near ground level.

I would think Asian pear would work as well on quince.

I was never very successful getting a decent crop of quinces until last year and especially this year when I found out about the Triazicide Once and Done from this forum. I grew nearly perfect, worm free quinces this year. A couple of coddling moths in a handful of the cores, but just a few, but, I slacked off spraying after about late July. Had I done just one early-mid-August spray, they probably would have been pristine. Not complaining, I got way too many as it was.

Dennis, quince is compatible with some Euro pears but not all. I once found a table and about half the popular european pears are compatible and half not. For some reason I never hear of compatibility with asian pears.

My quinces get quince rust, fireblight, and codling moth in extreme doses. The CM is not the biggest problem, its primarily the FB and secondarily the quince rust. For the FB I did multiple copper and agrimycin sprays last year and still had significant problems and it has been making the FB worse on my apples I expect.

But no more, they are gone and I am relieved.

Scott

Scott,
How about inserting a piece of known quince/medlar-compatible Euro pear as an interstem?

I experimented with putting an 8-10" piece of OHxF 513 between callery understock and a number of Euro & Asian pears several years back - put the interstem & fruiting variety together inside, then grafted the combo unit onto callery seedlings lined out in nursery beds. Both graft unions callused in normally and quickly, and the fruiting varieties leafed and grew just as rapidly as some that were grafted directly onto seedling callery.

Might overcome any potential graft rejection (or 'pear decline' - as was my intention for using the 513 interstem). Just a thought.

Good idea Lucky - in fact I found something stating most asians are not quince compatible long-term so I don't think I want to risk that. I will use Comice or Passe Crassane, two pears I have that are well-known to be compatible with quince. For the medlar I'm not sure what to do, I will probably try a whole bunch of things and see what takes off. One other idea is I can see the medlar is grafted onto quince by a change of bark about an inch from the ground and I could dig it out a bit and try bark grafting right by the ground on the quince rootstock.

Scott