Here's a lilst of fruits for Zone 14 (the Sunset Western Garden Book designation for the Sacramento area; we don't use USDA zones in California with accuracy): POME AND STONE FRUIT TREES Apple -- [best crops with two different trees] Arkansas Black Astrachan Beverly Hills Black Twig Fuji (bears alternately) Gala (Royal Gala) (fireblight-prone) Golden Delicious Granny Smith Gravenstein Jonathan Melrose Mutsu Newtown Pippin Northern Spy (slow) Rome Beauty (Red Rome) Spigold Winesap Winter Banana (Winter) Pearmain Apricots -- Autumn Royal (ripens late) Blenheim (Royal) Floragold Golden Amber Royalty Tilton Aprium (apricot-plum hybrid) Flavor Ann Flavor Delight Honey Rich Tasty Rich Cherry -- [need two different trees] Bing Black Tartarian English Morello (sour) Montmorency (sour) North Star (sour) Royal Ann Stella Van Cherry-Plum -- Delight Sprite Nectarine -- Desert Dawn Double Delight (ornamental, too) Fantasia Flavor Top Goldmine John Rivers Independence Silver Lode Snow Queen Southern Belle (genetic dwarf) Stanwick Sungrand Nectaplum (nectarine-plum hybrid) Spice-Zee Peach -- Bonita Babcock Bonanza II (genetic dwarf) Desertgold Donut (Saturn) Early Elberta Elberta Fay Elberta Fortyniner Gold Dust Halehaven Honey Babe (genetic dwarf) Indian Free July Elberta Redhaven Rio Oso Gem Peach-Plum  Tri-Lite Pear -- Bartlett Baldwin Comice Fan Stil Flordahome Hood Kieffer Monterrey Moonglow Seckel Sure Crop Winter Nelis Pears, Asian -- (Some are relatively self-fertile but still do best with a pollinator; others absolutely require a pollinator (because pollinators are specific in many cases, check your references before purchasing just any pollinator). Also check for fireblight resistance (a common disease among some cultivars).) Chojuro Hosui Ichiban Kikusui Kosui Mishirasu Nihon Nashi (Okusankichi) Niitaka Nijisseki (20th Century)  for coldest areas Seuri Shinko Shinseiki Shinsui Tsu Li (Tse Li) Ya li Yoinashi Yongi Plum, European -- Brooks Damson Early Laxton* French Prune Green Gage Imperial* Italian Prune Mirabelle Reine Claude Seneca* Stanley Sugar Plum, Japanese -- Burgundy Casselman Eldorado Elephant Heart Kelsey Laroda Nubiana Santa Rosa Satsuma (many others) Pluot (plum-apricot hybrid)  Black Kat Blue Gusto Crimson Heart Dapple Fire Early Dapple Flavor Fall Flavor Gem Flavor Gold Flavor Grenade Flavor Heart Flavorich Flavorite Flavor Jewel Flavor King Flavorosa Flavor Queen Flavor Supreme Flavor Treat Flavor Wynne Geo Pride Marcia's Flavor Plum Parfait Royal Treat Spring Flavor Quince -- CookeÂs Jumbo Orange Pineapple Smyrna OTHERS Fig -- (Black) ÂMission ÂBrown Turkey ÂConadria ÂKadota Jujube (Ziziphus) -- ÂJin ÂLang ÂLi ÂSherwood ÂSilverhill Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) -- ÂBig Jim ÂAdvance ÂChampagne ÂGold Nugget ÂMacBeth Mulberry, Black (Morus nigra)  ÂPersian ÂBlack Beauty ÂKaester ÂPakistan King ÂSullivan ÂThompson Pomegranate -- ÂAmbrosia ÂBlaze ÂEarly Wonderful ÂEversweet ÂGrenada ÂPink Pearl Drops ÂRosamia ÂSweet ÂUtah Sweet ÂWhite ÂWonderful NUTS Almond (takes two for pollination with noted exceptions *) -- ÂAll-in-OneÂ* ÂCarmel ÂGarden PrinceÂ* ÂMission ÂNeplus Ultra ÂNonpareil ÂPrice Chestnut (takes two to pollinate)  ÂColossal ÂDunstan ÂEurobella Filbert, Hazelnut (takes two to pollinate)  ÂBarcelona ÂBrixnut ÂButler ÂDavianna ÂDu Chilly ÂEnnis ÂWhite Aveline Pistachio (Pistacia vera) (takes two to pollinate)  ÂJoley  female ÂKerman  female ÂPeters  male (pollinator) ÂSfax -- female Walnut -- ÂChandler ÂHartley ÂHoward ÂTehama UNCOMMON HARDY FRUITS Mulberry hybrids -- ÂCollier (Morus alba X M. rubra) ÂIllinois Everbearing (M. alba X M. rubra) ÂTehama ("Giant White") ÂWellington (ÂNew AmericanÂ) Black persimmon (Diospyros digyna) Che (Cudrania tricuspidata) Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) (some self-fertile, otherwise hand pollinated) Potential (not tested well) -- ÂMary Foos Johnson ÂMitchell ÂOverleese ÂProlific ÂRebeccaÂs Gold ÂSunflower (sf) ÂTaylor ÂTaytoo ÂWells Persimmon hybrids -- ÂKeener ÂNikitaÂs Gift ÂRossiyanka Strawberry Tree, Chinese (Myrica rubra) Joe

Eastern White Pines are very intolerant to direct salt spray. There are other pines to plant that are more tolerant such as the Austrian Pine. Spruces are probably better at tolerating the conditions you describe. As you said, Eastern Red Cedar is an excellent choice. Just about any other Juniper will work, too. Crabapples and especially Hawthorns should work. These would give you blooms, and fruit for interest. The latter would also give you thorns unfortunately. Just about anything with thorns will grow well in the conditions you describe, though. Anything in the Elm family should work. The wood is cross-grained so it's very resistant to splitting. The related Zelkova is a tree that I've seen in the situations you describe and they are doing fine. They have nice fall color. Even though they aren't native, Ginkgos will survive just about anything you throw at them. Their unusual leaves create a lot of interest. They are the best for brilliant yellow fall color. I don't live right on the water but I do live within view of the ocean and oaks are everywhere particularly members of the red oak family. I would suggest a scarlet oak for your situation. They love terrible soil and have great fall color. You can buy your average run of the mill red oak at Home Depot or Lowe's for a very cheap price. Bur Oak is another good choice but they are harder to find. The other tree prevalent in my area is the tupelo or black gum tree. While normally associated with wet soil. They are very adaptable to dry, infertile, sandy soil. They have wood that is cross-grained like elms so they absolutely will not break in the wind. They have great fall color. Sweet gums would probably work for you if you can handle the spiky gumballs that they drop. Fall color is excellent. I've seen Larch trees near the ocean around here especially in Plymouth and they do just fine. Honeylocusts would probably do OK. The Kentucky coffeetree is not common here but I have seen some around and they do just fine. They would be very tolerant of the conditions you describe. Their long pods are interesting but messy.

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Hi, I have a couple of questions regarding Mulberries: 1. I read that Morus rubra (the US native mulberry) only grows to 20' in the northeast - that it only grows to 50 or 70 in the south or mid west? I live in NJ and hope that the tree is a small one (as in around 20'). 2. Will the taste of Morus rubra's berries be significantly worse then the commercial M. alba x M. rubra hybrids, such as 'Illinois Everbearing'? 3. I really want(ed) to stick with the native variety (M. rubra), but don't want to significantly compromise on taste - could I graft a M. rubra limb onto my non-native M. alba x M. rubra hybrid (sapling) so that I have both varieties - I'll actually end up just keeping most of the tree M. rubra and only a single maintained limb of the original hybrid. 4. Will grafting the M. rubra onto the M. alba (x M. rubra) rootstock minimize the risk that M. rubra often experiences of root disease (spread by M. alba)? I figure that since the roots are not M. rubra's (at least I think they don't use M. rubra to do grafts) this would be an advantage. 5. Is M. rubra self-fertile - some sites say yes - and some say that it varies. I guess if it's female, the M. alba x M. rubra self-fertile limb would fertilize it. 6. Do you think that a 10' tall and wide Mulberry tree provides all the fruit one would want; if so, I might keep it pruned small. Thanks, Steve