Monterey Agri Fos for Fireblight?

11 years ago

I have another thread about growing quinces in Florida-- and learned they are subject to fireblight in this area.

After my most recent post, I was just looking at the label for Monterey Agri-Fos systemic fungicide and noticed it says it can be used as a foliar spray for fireblight.

I have the Agri-Fos because I used it to save two near-dead loquats from an advanced case of phytophthora collar rot (It worked great!! The Ag Extension office told me the loquats were doomed but they were wrong!)

Anyway, I was thinking maybe I might try spraying a bit of Agri-Fos on the quinces as a preventative measure for fireblight. Has anyone tried this and did it help?

Thanks,
Ann

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Comments (4)

Scott F Smith
11 years ago
Ann, there hasn't been much study of the different phosphorous-based compounds for fireblight but a few studies did show some effectiveness. I have used Serenade, copper, and agrimycin on my fireblight problem. It still didn't fix my quince problem and the copper and agrimycin are considered more effective than phosphorous compounds (and Serenade). So while it could help to spray it I would more importantly use one of these two more powerful materials. Another important thing to do is prune the tree very open, with fewer branches it dries out more quickly and there will be more direct sun to kill bacteria.

Scott
john_in_sc
11 years ago
You can certainly give it a go...

I tried spraying a Phosphite product (I think K-phite) on my Apples that were suffering Fireblight... Didn't do anything from what I can tell... at least NOT once it was already infected.....

I won't tell you that it isn't effective... but the key in this case is that it's NOT a Fungicide like Streptomyicin or like a "Chemical" fungicide... It works more along the lines like an "Organic" type fungicidal products....

If you want to give it a crack - start applying it now... You need the balance in the tissue of the plant for it to work.... and perhaps an ounce of prevention might be worth a pound of cure...

Thanks
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Hi MrsG47- Hello to a fellow Rhode Islander! I'm in Wakefield... you? I used to be quite active in this formum (see my MyPage), but life got in the way over the last 6 months. I'll be on more as we head into springtime. Harvestman is right of course, those are some of the best weapons out there. Having not followed your history, I'm not sure what fruit your spraying. Assuming apples, I've found that Immunox and Triazicide are incredible. I only use the Monterey Fungus Fighter on my peaches to prevent brown rot. I do have a stockpile of Imidan just in case I ever need it, but I've found the Triazicide was able to handle my pests just fine, without resorting to the (IMHO stronger, and makes-me-slightly-nervous) Imidan. I also spray AgriStrep to ward off Fireblight which I've had small hits of over the years. As for when to spray the Immunox, Harvestman taught me: Once at petal fall, and once 10-14 days later. Because all my trees are at slightly different stages, at different times, sometimes I'll turn this into 3 sprays instead of 2. But, with those 2 or 3 sprays, I've been able to completely defeat my nemisis CAR. As for the Triazicide, I'll usually mix some in with my last spray of Immunox. This is to keep out any of the PC and other critters before I bag my apples, so that's really about the only time I have to spray it.... except... Believe it or not, I do have a problem with aphids. Everyone says how weak aphids are (wash 'em off with a hose, etc), but even with repeated sprays of Sevin, I can't seem to get them under control. So, sometimes mid season, I'll get frustrated with poor-Sevin results, and then nuke 'em with Triacizide. Some will say that's overkill but, again, I get sick of poor results with my other attempts. Don't forget a nice dormant oil spray as well! This year I need to come up with a solution for my sooty blotch and fly speck. Yes, I know they're mostly cosmetic and they wash off, but when a few of my varieties are 60 black due to SB/FS, even after scrubbing, they still seem just a bit less palatable. Best Regards, -Glenn
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Cora, it sure does look like root rot (Phytophthora). I would treat right now with AgriFos (phosphorus acid), 1 Tbsp. per 5 gals of water. Then, treat again in 2 weeks, and a 3rd treatment in another four weeks (so now, 2 weeks, and then 6 weeks). It is not uncommon for one tree to be just fine, and the one right next to it to be affected, based on where the organism is growing in your soil, and what rootstock your tree is on (some are much more susceptible than other rootstocks). You should see recovery in the next few months. Older leaves may green up some, or simply fall off to be replaced by new, healthy flush. Continue to treat every 6 months. after you've done your first 3 treatments. You can buy Monterey's AgriFos on amazon.com, or may be able to find it at your better garden centers. In February, go ahead and fertilize as usual. And, you're right in keeping the soil drying during our winters. That is the time the organism will flourish, based on too wet soils being the right temperature range for optimal growth. Patty S.
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Are you sure the leak hasn't become larger? That could be it. It's difficult to determine which pathogen it is, but a broad-spectrum product will treat most of them, so not as important. The best I know of for soil born fungi would be Agri-fos. Here's the label, it should be available at any good garden center. Or you can buy it direct from Monterey Lawn and Garden co. http://www.montereylawngarden.com/documents/public/products/Agri-FosSystemicFungicide-2-column-(02).pdf There is also the possibility it's something else. It's tough to diagnose from a pic. Here's another link to a page of citrus diseases. It's by UC Davis here in CA, so some may not be applicable in Texas, but I could not find a similar page for your state. Hope this helps. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C107/m107bpleaftwigdis.html
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Scott F Smith
11 years ago
John, the phosphate materials I have looked into work like peroxide or baking soda on diseases: they deliver some immediate killing upon contact and are gone in a day or so. So, the time to spray is when things are "heating up" (both literally and figuratively), when the fireblight danger zone is approaching as temps warm in spring. If you want to be really accurate, look into one of the fireblight models such as Cougarblight - it tells you when fireblight is likely to strike so you can get out and zap it right before it cascades.

Part of the great difficulty of fireblight is the when to spray, not just the what to spray. Unlike bugs there is no annual cycle / degree days, its based on recent weather patterns.

Scott
john_in_sc
11 years ago
Not sure if we are talking about the same thing or not....

Phosphite is different from Phosphate.... Generally, Phosphate doesn't do anything for fungus/disease... Phosphite is different stuff altogether.... and has been shown to help...

This stuff seems to have to be absorbed into the plant - and that's where Topical/foliar apps seem to work better.... faster absorption....

From what I have read and seen first hand.. This stuff doesn't really do much once you have an active infection.... but it works quite well at helping to "Harden off" tissue so it's harder to infect....

That's where I liken it to other "Biological" solutions... It's gotta already be there... and then you will likely see less infection or no infection....

I can attest that it doesn't work like a Fungicide when sprayed on stuff that's already heavily infected/colonized..... You might possibly see a faster recovery from infection.... but I think it's dicey to think of this stuff as a solution to replace a product like Agri-myicin....

Thanks

Monterey Agri Fos for Fireblight?

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Scott F Smith

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