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Fruit & Orchards

Multi-Variety or Grafted Fruit Trees

17 years ago

Hi.

I had ordered a 5 in 1 citrus tree and 3 in 1 nectarine/peach tree from growquest nursery-- but after 45 days they never delivered. They refunded my money-- but I wanted I wanted was the trees-- so can anyone recommend a reputable nursery that might have these types of trees? I was really looking forward to the multiple varieties on the same tree and they had advertised them as being a few years old and bearing fruit already. Would have been great if the trees actually existed.

Thanks.

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Comments (3)

joereal
17 years ago
Why settle for 5 in 1 when you can have 50-in-1 yourself?

Anyway, you can visit Home Depot, WalMart, Lowes, Ace Hardware, as sometimes they carry these types of trees. Or you can call them. Usually if they have staff that are knowledgeable, you can request special order from them.

Here's my 50-n-1 tree which is going to be about 60-n-1 tree this year.

Here is a link that might be useful: Evolution of my 50-n-1 citrus tree
ashok_ncal
17 years ago
Heyellen,

Multi-grafted trees often seem to be a disappointment to those who buy nursery-grown specimens, as individual limbs may decline due to domination by other, more rapidly-growing portions of the plant.

If you know how to graft (and bud), you can correct these problems as needed, by re-grafting bits of weakly-growing cultivars onto strongly growing limbs.

So check out the sources Joe mentioned to buy some plants ... but then go through his extensive on-line grafting/budding tutorial material so you will be able to best care for whatever trees you may buy.
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Sometimes there are incompatabilities- a grafted on variety overgrowing its mother plant is a little strange to see, but it happens. And the reverse can occur, but it's more likely, I suspect, that the graft is not taking overly well, and "strangling" the scion. (I have a Macoun and a Fuji on my Liberty that are that way.) Sometimes with a whip and tongue graft or a cleft graft the union will be clumsily done and the graft will get pretty big until the stocks catch up. (Conversely, a nicely done whip and tongue will virtually disappear within a season or two. I have a couple of cleft grafts which are overgrown with callous. The scions' took, and are even productive, but it clearly wasn't the best result. One poster on this board, Joe Real, does lots of grafts, and then does lots more- I think he might suggest that if a graft isn't working just cut it out and try something different. It's hard for me to do that, but I'm getting there! There are also matches which do better with an interstem- that is, grafting a short piece of one variety to your rootstock and then grafting the desired scion to the short piece. But I don't know what they are, and I imagine there's quite a lot of choices and variables.
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I purchased a three-in-one plum tree from Raintree last year. It has grown nicely and was well labelled. I weighted down the branches with rope and a stone to make the tree more open centered. Looks like it may be budded for fruit next year. I transferred some chip buds ( my first attempt at chip budding) to other plums that I have, so we'll see next spring if that was successful. I have been grafting scions onto existing apple and pear trees for a few years now. My first reaction when these grafts fruited was that flavor must be affected and in decline when a graft. (Mollie's Delicious on Jonathan had no taste; Vista Bella on same tree was o.k.) However, this year has changed that --Honeycrisp is one of four grafts on Hawkeye Delicious and is wonderful. The Grimes Golden on that tree is also great, and expecting great things from Florina in a few weeks. One thing I think I've learned is to not let the tree overbear.
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Hi Pepino, thank you for answering my query. My fruit tree is under cover but it still gets the cold weather we are experiencing in Melbourne. It gets some morning sun ( when we get it). My covered area is 70sq meters with an opening of 10meters, so as you see there is a lot of room for good ventilation and no additional heat. I have no idea why it broke dormancy. Two weeks ago I also picked a beautifull bunch of roses as I was pruning, now that too is rather unusual.I am also picking the odd cherry tomatoe from a plant that is growing with the lavender!!!
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When the manager of an orchard at Manson, Washington, told grafter Ken Coates that he was thinking of pulling out an Amber Jewel plum block to plant cherries, Coates told him he had a better plan. Coates, who has been a commercial grafter for almost 30 years, had experience in California of using an interstem to graft plums over to cherries instead of pulling the trees, thereby avoiding the costs and lost time involved in replanting. For the interstem, he uses the plum rootstock Adara, which is compatible with cherry. Adara (Prunus cerasifera) was developed in Spain and is sometimes used as a cherry rootstock in California. The Adara rootstock would work equally well for converting peach or nectarine trees to cherries, although, curiously, it doesn’t work for converting other stone fruits to peaches, he said. "Potentially, we could graft over a peach orchard to cherry as well, which is real exciting," he said. This is not surprising; species that have a slower rate of growth often do not survive well long-term when grafted onto other species with a faster rate of growth. The base species overgrows the graft union. http://www.goodfruit.com/goodbye-plum-hello-cherry/
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ingalls
17 years ago
I bought a four-variety cherry tree just to find out more about different kinds of cherries. I would like, eventually, to have early season cherries, mid-season cherries, and late cherries too.
One reason is that I am a pig and I want a long cherry season to fight with the birds for the fruit. Another reason is that having a wide margin for flowering time might help accomodate global climate change to some degree.

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