You could try vinca (Cataranthus). It comes in lots of sizes from nearly two feet to six inches. Pick the size that works for you. It's about the most foolproof and reliable annual in the Deep South zone 7. (It's helpful if you always include your state when you post.) Some others that would also do well would be Serena or Serenita Angelonia; Zahara, Magellan, or Profusion Zinnias; Victoria Salvia, Gomphrena, or even lantana. All of these will bloom their heads off in the highest heat of my summer here. If your bloom season is very long like mine (April to November), you'll want to give them all a good cutback in mid summer to keep them looking their best into fall.

I would think it too much shade for squash - if I'm picturing it correctly. But take advantage of that shade and plant something that not only has similar nutrient needs but will benefit from that shade. Maybe lettuce, spinach or other leafy greens that normally wouldn't grow later in the season without lots of shade and cooler soil. Shady places like that also make a good seedling nursery for any flats you have going of fall plantings. Protects them and hardens them off at the same time so they are ready to be planted as the room opens up for them in the fall. Dave

<But do they fight with each other, is the question.> "Fight" might be the wrong word, perhaps "compete" would be more accurate. As soon as the roots of one plant begin to spread they will run into the roots of the other plant. Competition then begins for whatever available resources are there. Same above ground, there's only so much sunlight available. There's not doubt that a single plant will grow better than either of the two in a single planting space. The hope is that two "stunted" plants combined will yield more than one lone plant. And if one dies due to unforeseen circumstances, you have a backup. In my 16'x22' squash bed I've been planting 6 or 7 plants and getting altogether too many squashes for me to eat. That's one reason I'm trying to prolong the storage time. So this year I scaled back to 4 plants and I got just as much. I'm going to try just three next year and I suspect I'll get just as much. If so I'll try just two the next year. Keep in mind I'm talking about Maximas here which are monstrously growing, branch at every opportunity, have huge wandering root systems, blanket the earth with an impenetrable leaf canopy, and sink down new roots at every leaf node. I'm wondering if in this garden bed a single plant can by spreading, branching and rooting actually yield 300+ pounds of good eating squashes. I'm guessing it can. I would be a bit worried to do that however since occasionally a plant may die or have a fruiting anomaly.

I'm working compost in this weekend and letting my beds go fallow, locked down under black plastic for the next several weeks to chase away nematodes and block the weeds. Will start my tomato seeds in about 9 days for transplanting out in the beds in mid-August. I'll also start broccolli seeds in August (and will continue starting seeds every two weeks through October so that I'll have a continual supply through the winter). Corn and beans will be direct sown in early August. Lettuce, onions, carrots and strawberries will start in October. I agree with you on the citrus. It'll be a bumper crop as long as we don't have any disasterous weather. My trees are absolutely covered. I just finished the last of my peaches. Man, they sure beat the hell out of anything you can get at the store.