I had tons of flying pests, including Aphyds, etc, and the Malathion treatment (2 tablespoons/gal water) spray got rid of 95 % of the pests overnight. The 2nd treatment got the remainer. A miracle! One plant was literally falling apart and not blooming at all; my plants bloom profusely now!!!!! TIP: the best liquid fertilizer for all your plants, bushes and trees, including tomatoes. Take a 5-gallon bucket and fill it half full w/manure (horse or cow); then, fill it full with water. Let it sit a few hours; then dip (I use a hand-held mug) off ~ 1-2 mugs full per day for tomatos, ~ 1-2 mugs/day for hibiscus. It is a miracle fertilizer. And, CHEAP ...... too! NOTE: REFILL to top with water after the liquid is removed down to the manure level. once or twice per week: (U can't burn anything with this no matter how much U use) 2-3 mugs for bushes, including fig trees too 3-4 mugs for trees John G Williams Germantown, Tn 38138

Who told you the 3-days-at-72-degrees bit? There's a lot of bad tomato folklore out there.... AFAIK, the pollen becomes non-viable if daytime lows are 90-95 degrees and nighttime lows are either below 55 or above 75. There is some variation by variety (and cherries will set at higher temperatures). The FAQ says "Fruit set will resume when temperatures moderate." Why are the blooms on my tomato plant dying and falling off? The only high-temperature effect I'm aware of is on the pollen. So the plant should continue to make flowers, and those flowers should set fruit when temperatures are more favorable. [Have you ever experienced a hot summer where tomato plants continued to grow but no longer flowered?] Now, high humidity is another factor: it also makes pollen non-viable. I don't know the figures for overly-high humidity. And on a stressed plant, tiny, developing blossoms will often drop for whatever reason (I assume mostly either inadequate water or the plant has already set as many fruit as it can take care of).

When you transplanted them at that advanced stage - normally not recommended - they were what is called "set back". Plus they had the added stress of fruit already on the plant. They need time to develop new roots, adjust to the new location, and trigger new growth. Until they are fully adjusted to the transplanting they won't make new blooms. They concentrate on just surviving and making new vegetative leaf growth for 4-6 weeks instead. As long as they continue to look healthy they will very likely develop more blooms in time. You just have to be patient. Tomato plants grow in cycles of approx. 6 weeks in length depending on the type (determinate or indeterminate). And that is without the added stress of transplanting them. So it will take time to get your plants back into a blooming/fruit set cycle. Dave

I haven't hear of any plants that aren't photoperiod... but I'll assume you are correct. I'm not sure what you mean that you have flower clusters pop up but not blossoming. do you mean that the flowers fall off before they bloom? this is called tomato blossom drop. you can google this for more information. it's basically caused by stress - heat, water, nutrient deficiency... Are you pollenating the flowers? if your plants are indoors you have to take on the job of the bees. I use the electric toothbrush technique to pollenate my tomatoes even the outdoors ones, because if the bees don't get to them... no tomatoes.