No sand in the soil...topsoil and mulch in that area. So it would stick...it maybe actually 3yrs. Not sure actually...left one because ones always ask for seedlings. And I pull typically pull them out. This year...I plan on deadheading before seeds are sewn. Lol Ken...you have a real love for Rose of Sharon. Thanks for your knowledge much appreciated. ~Darlene

drrich2, Pull it out. Sometimes it will surprise you. Reason I say this that that sometimes roots are "pruned" in winter due to the outside of the pot being colder than the center. This is NOT ideal, but at the same tie, if you can get it cheap enough I would give it a shot. In fact I did the very same thing at a nursery not too far away, and got away with it. With that said, if you DON'T get it for CHEAP, pass it by IMHO. One option that many people on here will not like, but has served me well it ebay. I've bought several items from "Oregon Grown" and have been very happy with them. They are in tree "tubes" but all have been healthy and exactly as advertised. This includes a Acer triflorum, Acer pseudosieboldianum, and Acer griseum (paperbark). The paperbark was a 3 foot whip. But here is the other thing I need to add. I can't say for you in Ky, but here in NW Arkansas at about 1200' elevation, they are NOT slow growing at all. Ours is planted with mulch in a Bermuda lawn in full sun that is not over fertilized. It's grew about 3 feet last year. Yes three feet, as did the triflorum. And no, I did not fertilize it. I can't claim yours will do that, but they are not as slow growing as advertised if given condition they are happy with. Arktrees

Hi Saintpfla Since you probably heard all the possible answers on your citrus problems, I am going to tell you what I know and saw at Echo last time that I was there in the tour for the fruit trees and people asked the same questions like you did. The expert planted the tree for demonstration in a mound, he said so the rains don't flood the tree. Made a hole without amending and put the tree in, situated so it looked the best and then added compost only on the sides. The older citrus trees had a big mulch on the sides but without touching the trunk (important) a lot of people asked about this and he said is okay. After that he went on to the bugs that affect the citrus like thrips and he said this year with the cold they had not much problem but otherwise they spray some sort of oil, somebody asked neem? and he said no, he did not give the name because I don't think is available for us. Now I have my private story to tell you, just remember I am no expert. I had wonderful citrus in Arizona, never had a problem or bugs or disease, did not even look at them and they had a crop that I had to give it away. They had small rocks underneath because I xeriscape in my yard. Now when I came to this house I bought some citrus, few of the same varieties like my neighbor, I only found that out when I went to visit her place because she asked for help with the citrus. I went again recently and 2 of her trees are dead and the same 2 of mine are still alive. I went over what they do and what I do, and this is what we did differently, she fertilize with some sort of spikes, I use the Sunniland brand for citrus. When we got hit with the winter, I cover just the trunks of the trees, she only covered the tops. Sometimes when I spray the tomatoes, I will use the leftover spray on the citrus, she does not use anything because she said some expert told her the damage of thrips is only cosmetic. If you try to foliar feed when is not hot just early morning or evening there is a chelated citrus nutritional spray by Southern Ag that you can get I think at HD. I hope that you get your citrus back to health and producing for you. Silvia

As an amateur with a brown thumb, I'll say I have the best success rate with potted trees planted in the Fall. They give you way more flexibility as to when you plant them, have more tiny feeder roots, etc. Disadvantages of Bare Root: 1.) You have to plant them immediately. This can be a problem if they arrive when things are picking up at work or you are traveling. 2.) Problems if You Buy From the South: Ideally bare root trees are dug up between the time when the soil thaws and the time when the trees break dormancy...that may NOT be the same month there as it is where you are. (If you buy trees grown a couple zones south of you they may be shipped when it is still to early to plant where you are. Or they may ship trees in the Fall too late to plant). 3.) Slow to Wake Up/Trees that Don't Like Refrigeration: Many commercial places store bare-root trees in a refrigerator for months to maintain dormancy and avoid the two problems above. Most trees are fine with that. There are a couple species (eg American Persimmon) that get confused and go into such a deep "sleep" they may not wake up until the end of summer, if ever. (I ran into that Problem with American Persimmon...one was alive when I got it but never woke up. Another died at the top but started putting up leaves from below the graft in August). Just google the name of the species you are thinking of buying and "sweating" to see if this is an issue for you. I don't think this one applies to conifers. Advantages of Bare Root: 1.) Cheaper. Way cheaper. 2.) More selection. (You can economically buy all sorts of things by mail order...great if you want something obscure). 4.) Not Root Bound 3.) More Control. (Big advantage for people who know what they are doing...they can inspect the roots, prune them, tease them apart. Just creates more ways an amateur can mess things up.) This post was edited by edlincoln on Tue, Dec 9, 14 at 21:14