As an 'expert' in feed sacks of this type, I wouldn't even try. They are designed to break down when exposed to sunlight and I don't see any way they could be used as decent planters. :( They leave a LOT of tiny plastic flakes when they break down, too. Good luck!

Mine only get full sun half of the day and I still have the browning, so that prob can't be the problem. I also tried spraying with a fungicide, but that didn't help, so I don't think its a fungus problem. When I planted my bananas I worked some manure and compost into the soil. Since manure/compost is cheaper than fertilizer maybe you could work some into the top layer of your soil, and then as you water the nutrients from it should leach down to your banana's roots. I would try this in addition to the amount of fertilizer you are giving it and maybe you can get some faster growth without dumbing a pound of fertilizer on the plants. Also, since bananas do take so much fertilizer, it becomes a little more critical to make sure you water plenty if you have high salt content in the soil in your area so that some of that salt will wash out. I have never tried using miracle grow on my leaves, so I can't help you with that question.

I grow Citrus on straight sand and IâÂÂve learned that you have to adjust your fertilizer applications to accommodate leaching. By the looks of your trees, they need more food, more often. The 10 year old trees should be getting 11lbs of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 per year, divided into 4 applications of 2.75lbs (2 x 8oz cups is approximately 1lb.) through the growing season. My 1st application goes down March 1 and my last is Sept 1. Increase the rate of fertilizer 1 - 1ý lb of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 per year through the 12th year or max of 18lbs of fertilizer per year. Broadcast the fertilizer beyond the spread of the limbs where most of the feeder roots occur a good practice is to put your left shoulder near the outer branches and hold the can of fertilizer in your right hand. You can simply walk around the tree and evenly spread the fertilizer in a 12- to 18-inch band on the outer branches of the tree. This is the foundation of your feeding schedule. Supplement to this: i) A small amount of nitrogen fertilizer (ü pound of Ammonium Nitrate or Ammonium Sulfate/year/age of tree or ý pound of Calcium Nitrate/year/age of tree) should be applied to bearing trees (trees 4 years and older) in late May or June. The rate of fertilizer is increased each year until the tree is 12 years old. This helps the tree make adequate vegetative growth and appropriate sized fruit. The additional nitrogen also will encourage the tree to set a crop the following year. ii) A micro-nutrient foliar spray once every 6 weeks. I like Keyplex HG (http://keyplexdirect.3dcartstores.com/KeyPlex-Citrus-HG--32oz-_p_91.html#C3). You can tone it down to 2oz/gallon. iii) An application of WEAK liquid fertilizer (200ppm) in between granular applications. I like JackâÂÂs 25-5-15HP (http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jack-s-Professional/Jack-s-Pro/General-Purpose-Formulas/25-5-15-High-Performance.html) As far as pest cpontroll goes, IâÂÂve had luck with: i) Macho 2.0 (http://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/labels/Macho_2.0FL.pdf ) Application: 1/8oz/10oz water, applied to base of tree at start of 2nd flush ii) Kocide 3000 (http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a35804ce82d.pdf ) Application: pre bloom, petal fall, & each flush @ the following rate: 5gal 3gal 1gal (tbsp) (tsp) (tsp) 6 9 3 iii) Greenlight Spinosad (http://www.amazon.com/Green-Light-Organic-Control-Spinosad/dp/B000BO8XZO ) Application: 2oz/Gallon H20 + 1Oz Hort Oil as foliar spray every 7 to 14 days after petal fall. This is what works for me in sand. Best, Skinn30a

If you have a compost pile the soldier fly larvae and pupae are one of the highest natural sources of calcium that chickens love to eat. The pupae look like dark trilobites or some sort of prehistoric life form. They are usually in the dirt away from anything fresh and new in the pile. You can freeze them and feed them all winter. My chickens always loved left over human food - preferring a cooked squash over a fresh one, so I would cook up odd casseroles of veggies and cereal and plop it on the ground for them to demolish.