well linda.. there is the safe way .. and there is winging it.. i thought we were discussing the safest way ... i mean really .. [its been a while] .. but they are hosta... odds are.. you can throw them on the driveway for the summer.. and then replant.. and all but the foo foo ones will recover ... they may not be pretty ... but they will live ... so it doesnt surprise me that you 'got away with it' .... i just wouldnt recommend it as the favored procedure.. lol ... but you cant use them to make tea in tepid water.. maybe the rain kept them in cool water .. who knows ... mel.. back in the day .... if i was going to pay $50 for shipping .... i was going to amortize that cost over 50 plants ... lose 4 or 5 tags.. and your head is ready to explode... when i started... shipping was up to 25% of the cost of the order .... that was the quoted rate ... so on a 200 dollar order.. you do the math .. the local stores had the usual suspects [undulata and the blue one] .. there were no options ... ken

Hi Bonnie I grow asparagus, this is my second go round from seed. The original bed got moved once too often and went kaput. Alos had a problem with asparagus beetles. I tend to give up on stuff that is attractive to varmints. Got rid of 3 fruit trees because I dod not plant them for the squirrels, Back to the asparagus. I dig a 12" deep trench fill about 3/4 with manure, a little of soil to cover then ths asp roots. They are heavy feeders, so I am liberal with the manure again in the fall. I don't do spacing but would go for 12 " I started seeds , I think 3-4 yrs ago. Picked last year and have started picking today Mary

Hardy plants in cold climates effectively hibernate over winter. Like bears these store energy before entering hibernation and then live off it during the winter, "emerge" in spring in a depleted condition. So when there is cutting of the roots and digging of these plants in spring they are being impacted at a time of the year when they are low in energy. However it is also true that the opening of stem buds in spring is what prompts the growth of new roots from cut root ends. So if dormant plants can be moved right before the tops come to life in spring then new roots will be generated immediately afterward. As with fall planting opportunity for success is maximized by timing it with specific relation to what state the stem buds are in. Winter: Activity minimal or effectively non-existent, depending on how cold it is Spring: Winter stem buds open, new shoots appear and may flower, new roots are formed Summer: Flowering or fruiting may occur, roots grow some Autumn: Fruiting may occur, winter stem buds form, existing roots elongate markedly (60% of annual total) Spring shoot and root growth is caused by the opening of the winter stem buds. Autumn root elongation is caused by the maturing of the winter stem buds. At both times hormones are sent from the buds to the root ends which cause these to grow. For modern, research based information see the print publications of Carl E Whitcomb (Lacebark Inc) - present at colleges with horticulture programs, including my local community college - the print publications and web pages of Linda Chalker-Scott (Washington State University), and the Garden Professors blog.

I agree with GreenDinos's comment, Forsythia is so easy to propagate. Cut sticks from the long shoots about 6" or so long. Stick them in the ground and keep the soil moist, don't let it dry out. In 2 weeks or so, the sticks will begin to produce roots. Here is how you tell if the sticks have rooted yet. Ever so gently, pull straight up on the stick, if you feel resistance, stop, the roots are beginning. If you feel no resistance, gently push the stick back in its hole. Please wait 2-3 weeks after "sticking" them in the ground, most should have rooted by then. Good luck!