landscape timbers for raised garden
matthew18
13 years ago
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jonhughes
13 years agospaghetina
13 years agoRelated Discussions
looking for landscaping ideas edging / raised bed with pic
Comments (16)Grading for a walkout is more complicated than most other landscapes. Not all designers have the experience to do a good job on them. Should you choose to do the design yourself, or perhaps want to evaluate what your designer has planned, I have some suggestions. Be warned, it's a lot of work. Scaled drawings will be needed; a plan view of the entire property and vertical views of both routes of the front to back perimeter. There are some discussions of plan view drawings on this forum, so I will skip for now to the vertical views. The graphic below is one suitable for grade planning. Note that the scale is exaggerated with one small square representing 4 ft of horizontal distance, but only 2 ft of vertical distance. Without detailed measurements, the graphic is only an approximation of what Nick may really have. Of the 9 to 9.5 ft vertical transition common to this house type, Nick has about a 2ft drop from the front entry to grade leaving about 7 to 7.5 feet to get to the back grade. My guess of the current grading is shown by the irregular brown line which is probably around a 22 to 28% slope. Several treatments are shown with other colored lines. Where the house foundation wraps around the back and fill can be place against it, the cheapest solution is that shown in green. The result is an easy to mow lawn and beds not subject to erosion. The side slope across the front of the house is more difficult to make look good and more surface drainage is diverted to the back. Another solution shown in blue uses two short walls to reduce the slope. Short walls can be a DIY project and the grade in front is held to a minimum slope. The purple line is a constant grade from entry to back house corner; cheap but steeper. The red line is one of many big ticket wall treatments possible. This can result in a great looking landscape that produces the largest amount of high use flat property. As the perimeter treatment is evaluated, it is compared with plan view to establish the the final grading and drainage....See MoreAre landscaping timbers tacky?
Comments (14)Thanks for helping me out y'all! Clearly I still need to do some thinking and research about preservatives. saypoint, I do agree that the planter boxes would be nicer, but I was hoping more for a disappearing look than a nice tidy look. (Not that I'm trying to be messy here...) I'd love to eliminate the wall entirely but it's just so darn sloped on one end (it goes around the side of the house--sounds much bigger than it is). The bed has a few small steps as does the house foundation so it stays fairly close to the natural slope (where the slope was before years of erosion). I can't change the soil level too much more than building it back up to where the builder thought it should be. There's actually already a 3-5 foot timber retaining wall in the backyard and it looks fine, though maybe that's because it was here when I got here and I'm used to it. It's a mossy slimey green and looks right with the spruce, Hedera, and and rhododendrons it contains. Actually, is that important? My house is on a corner and visible from two sides. There's a large amount of retaining wall out of timber along the side, carving out my driveway and supporting my back yard. One thought is that introducing new material might make it all too busy. On the other hand, stone. It was the first choice and in a way it might be the ultimate choice except for a few problems. First, we can't find anyone we can tell is competent. We only seem to do precast concrete here. Also, we aren't sure we want our landscape design set in stone yet. har har. We're just following the lines that are here already. Basically, we can't make a decision on how to get stone put in so we're putting it off. The timbers could be considered temporary, although we're so slow to get anything done we want them to look decent. stevega, that's sort of the look we'd want--mostly covered (only a small section would be as high as 18", and it has stuff in front of it because it's an interior step, and the parts that are over 12" are in front of an area that is about to stop being lawn and will be planted with TBD stuff that will certainly conceal it). It's such a small area with so little visible through the plantings, in a nice natural color...I wouldn't actually use railroad ties. The existing blocks are slipping because their foundation is eroding and they were installed poorly. Some of them are actually resting on landscape timbers. They would be replaced no matter how solid they were because I hate 'em. I even hate nice interlocking blocks which these aren't--I'm actually opting for timbers over Unilock for appearance's sake. Budget isn't the motivator here, although I refuse to pay stone price for concrete blocks. (Actually, I sort of like concrete cast in place and I think it would complement the house, but I couldn't convince the spouse.) If I could find matching brick, I'd be tempted to go for it, but I don't like fake brick (concrete) and I can't even find a house with brick like mine, let alone available bricks. I'm a real joy to deal with! ;) I think I will look again at my beds. Perhaps I can slope them up towards the house and make the walls lower. I've also considered pulling the lawn back a bit and planting a low hedge in front of the short part of wall that I hadn't planned planting in front of and then not worrying about the wall's appearance. Anyway, more planning. Thanks for letting me work it out in my head here. You're all very patient!...See MoreRaised Landscape Timber Pond
Comments (18)We have a timber framed pond as part of our deck. It was installed by the former owner. The pond consist of three pools, with two weirs from the top pool, one from the middle pool to the lower pool, one from the lower pool to the pump chamber. One of the biggest problems we have had is with the flow rate. Too much flow from the pump and the volume of water increases in the upper pools; as volume from the pump is greater than the volume that can go over the weirs. Consequently the pools rises above the pond liner. If we were to rebuild the pond I would have it designed so that there were several inches of liner above the maximum possible height the water can rise. When you get your pond operational you will find you have to learn about flow mechanics, biology, chemistry, and several other fields that you have avoided all of these years....See MoreReplacement ideas for rotting garden bed timbers?
Comments (9)How high are the timbers/bed now? You could just replace them with fresh timbers. I had to move my 8'x4'x12" raised veggie bed this spring. I pried the frame up, moved it to where it needed to be, and then shoveled the soil back into it. Point being, the soil mostly stayed where it was after I lifted the bed frame up, with just a bit trickling down on the sides. You'd probably find the same situation: you remove the rotting timbers, the soil mostly stays put, you lay down and secure new timbers, and perhaps you have to do a bit of cleanup shoveling. If you don't want to use timbers, you might be able to use boulders/rocks, depending on how high the sides of your bed are. All of my perennial beds are edged with boulders, ranging in size from about 6" to 12" in diameter. It takes a while to figure out which stones need to go next to which other stones for the best fit, but I like the look of the end result. It's not as easy to weed-whack between the stones, however. I usually just end up hand weeding while I'm tending to the rest of the beds. Timbers are probably cheaper, unless you have a place where you can get cheap stone. I dug most of my boulders out of my yard, and bought the rest at a local hardscape supply yard for $35 a wheelbarrow-load....See Morebigtrout
13 years agocyrus_gardner
13 years agoorganicislandfarmer
13 years agobigtrout
13 years agodirtalloverme
13 years agospaghetina
13 years agoMGPinSavannah
13 years agomatthew18
13 years ago
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