Update that marigolds and nasturtiums without flowers did not repel the svb,neither did my homemade concoction of tobacco, redpeppers, black pepper, vegetable oil, and dish soap. It rained a few hours after I applied it, today new eggs all over them. I'm giving up organic at least with the svb, trying stuff with methoxychor, or best I've heard yet is this: "A second planting of summer squash made in early July will mature after adult borers have finished laying eggs. " Another nice suggestion: "Mulches are known to harbor squash bugs" http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html "Iowa State University Organics Research Program conducted trials of various control methods for squash bug and squash vine borer. Researchers found that mulching with newspaper and hay, combined with tightly secured row covers on the plots (a level 2 control), provided very effective control of both weeds and squash bugs in pumpkin (C. pepo)Âespecially in the wet season of 2002.(4, 5) The row covers apparently excluded squash bugs, preventing them from entering to lay eggs. Gauze row covers (e.g., ReemayÂ, AgriforceÂ, AgribonÂ, TufbellÂ) [Section 205.206(b)(1),(2),(3)] physically exclude pests and prevent them from reaching the plants in large numbers. Preventive strategies have become more important with recognition of A. tristis as a probable disease vector. Hand picking and trapping of A. tristis, or slitting each vine to remove the larva, in the case of M. satyriniformis, represent attempts to control pests after they have begun rearing another generation in numbers sufficient to cause economic damage and pest buildup. Such labor-intensive controls may be uneconomical for large plantings." "Some products acceptable in organic vegetable production that are effective against squash bugs include diatomaceous earth, sabodilla, and neem oil. Growers that anticipate using materials to control heavy pest infestations must list these materials and the circumstances for their use in their organic systems plan. This plan must be submitted to and approved by the organic certifier before the producer uses any material." What is a sabodilla? I found a tree by that name, is it the same thing? Here is a link that might be useful: svb info

Yes - I too would concur those are SVB eggs. I removed a bunch off my own plants today and although I covered them after that, I was apparently not quicker than the moth which seems to have arrived at least 5 days earlier this season. The eggs can indeed appear ANYWHERE on the plant, and I found them on the stems and undersides of the leaves, and also near the plant's base. I used sticky tape to remove anything I could find, then covered my whole squash "situation" with lightweight remay fabric. I will hand-pollinate throughout July to get past SVB season in CT. I am also going to plant more bush variety zucchini tomorrow to ensure a late harvest. And while I am out in the garden tending and weeding, I will thoroughly enjoy murdering those little friggers.

Gardening is really eye-opening to how many different insects we share the world with, isn't it? Don't worry, of all the insects you encounter out there only a relative handful are pests to our vegetables. You'll get familiar with them pretty fast. So, just about any caterpillar can be treated with Bt, so that's most of the list you've encountered so far. You can grt it in a powder form for dusting plants (Dipel) or in a liquid concentrate for mixing up sprays (Safer Thuricicde e.x.). Those are organic, if that is important to you, and very effective. Also think about row covers maybe. I find it better to identify actual pest problems and then deal with them than try to be proactive and get ready for all the possible pests that might arrive. For example, we usually have a moderate cabbage looper problem but not this year. So, I'm glad I didn't spend the time dusting those this spring to prevent caterpillars that weren't there anyway. As for the SVB, well, there are a several discussions on this here. Using the search function should bring those up. Anyway, tomaotes, peppers, and okra... Sounds like some good eating coming your way!

The sub-pic with the most circled are of feeder roots an Atlantic Giant pumpkin puts out at each node if buried or touching the soil... the vine was repositioned and the roots got exposed/uncovered... the pic's a little blurry but it goes to show they even laid eggs on the roots! The top sectional pic, three circled, is a vein/rib on the underside of a leaf. Your question about just sacrificing the leaf: The leaf stem is hollow, they get inside and head downward to the base of the stalk and will try boring into the vine. Don't believe what you hear about they aim for the first 3 feet of the vine! On an AG pumpkin, I've even found eggs on the yet-to-unfurl ends of vines at 20+ feet from the stump. The new growth with all the "to-be" vines at the end is "tender vittles" to them--softer & easier to bore into. And the leaf underside vein/rib [on that AG pumpkin] was about 24-30" above the ground. The right sectional pic with 1 egg on the stalk was up about 5-6 inches from the ground. There are maybe 2 possible ways to use the floating row cover successfully. 1. Use a plastic or heavy fabric weed barrier over the ground with the hole for the plant relatively small and in a different area than previous years PLUS use a floating row cover or screen over the plant, completely sealed along the edges, and hand pollinate when flowers are seen and immediately recover/reseal. The weed barrier would prevent them from emerging from the soil under the row cover, and if the stump hole or slit in the weed barrier is small and in a different location they may never find the opening--kinda like a person falling thru the ice in a lake and getting disoriented where the hole is if a current moves you further away. 2. Maybe silly or too much work would be to use row cover cut into long strips (like a roll of it 3-5" wide) and wrap it around the vine as it grows, kinda like you'd wrap electrical tape around a wire or wiring harness, always overlapping. You can do this on leaf stalks too, but it all seems like too much work, plus may constrict the plant's growth as the vine thickens. In theory, doesn't sound bad, but in reality, nearly impossible to do. Others say use tin foil and just form it around the vine. I don't think any kind of direct contact cloth or foil is really practical--they may just move to a different part of the plant not covered completely. AG growers often cover the vines with soil about an inch or more deep... it provides extra rooting areas too..but you still have to worry about exposed stalks & leaves, plus you must insure you're not burying a part of the vine that already has eggs deposited. Mark