Al and others..Foliage Pro fertilizer?
14 years ago
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Al, advice about hydrogen peroxide, foliage pro, gritty mix
Comments (4)FWIW - I wrote & posted this about using H2O2 in containers a number of years ago and several times since. H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, and the free O- H2O2 releases is very effective at this. Additionally, when plants growing in water-retentive media are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi. I know H2O2 comes in several different strengths, the most common of which are 3% and 35% solutions. Least expensive is the 35% product (what I use) which you dilute (to an approximate 3% solution) by mixing 1:11 with water. I have used the 3% solution at 1 to 2 tbsp per gallon as a cutting dip/soak, and have mixed it into irrigation water for plants in extremely water retentive soils at up to 3 tbsp per gallon, both with good results and nothing adverse apparent. H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. A solution that is too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts. I've seen this chart posted several times as suggested strength solutions for use in watering plants. You may wish to start at a lower concentration , such as I've used, and experiment. TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 1 cup, add 1-1/2 teaspoons ... 35% - 7 to 10 drops 1 quart, add 2 tablespoons ... 35% - 1/2 teaspoon 1 gallon, add 1/2 cup ... 35% - 2 teaspoons 5 gallons, add 2-1/2 cups ... 35% - 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon 10 gallons, add 5 cups ... 35% - 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 20 gallons, add 10 cups ... 35% - 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon 1) you can use them together w/no problems, but you shouldn't need it if you're watering correctly & the gritty mix is made even CLOSE to the suggested recipe. 2) Plants are reactive organisms. They will reach favorably to increased O2 in the root zone, and unfavorably to reduced levels. If you use excessive amounts of H2O2, it can kill viable tissues, so don't over use it. 3) Your plants won't get addicted to H2O2 to any greater degree than they are addicted to water. I would urge you to lift the plant from the pot & take a look at the roots to see what's going on, then prune roots back to sound tissue if you find rot as an issue. At that point, a dunk in a solution of H2O2 or unscented household bleach might be an appropriate measure. Al...See MoreMore Questions re. Al's Mixes (substitutions & fertilization)
Comments (47)You may be assigning to perlite that which is probably more rightly attributed to gravity. I'll explain. Even if there was a consistent volume of perlite mixed evenly into the soil from top of pot to bottom, it wouldn't have much impact on either the drainage (flow through) rate, how much air the soil holds, or the height of the perched water table. If you mix perlite into pudding, it doesn't increase aeration, drainage, or the ht of the PWT because the pudding simply surrounds the perlite and by doing so, rods of of any significant value UNTIL the perlite becomes a very significant fraction of the soil. Pudding + 15% perlite yields a medium with virtually all the physical characteristics of pudding, but perlite + 15% pudding is a different story. In your case, when using the heavy medium, the soggy layer at the bottom of the pot would have been there anyway, but that's because gravity dictates that the water moves down in the pot until the capillary attraction of the soil is exactly as strong as the pull of gravity. The perlite, in smaller volumes, can't change that balance, but it does take up some space that would otherwise be occupied by water, so it reduces the o/a water retention of the soil without significantly increasing aeration or the ht of the PWT. When using soils that don't support significant volumes of perched water, you get a much more even colonization of the soil by roots. Since the entire medium is well-aerated, you don't get the roots running round and round the inside pot wall looking for (growing only where there is ample) air, though roots will start circling if the planting is left to go badly root bound. Al...See MoreFoliage Pro & Pro Tekt (..AL..)
Comments (14)Lol - up in the middle of the night fretting over fertilizers? Please tell me something else had you up at that hour. ;-) Here's how I fertilize in the winter: I water/fertilize (fertigate) every time I water with a low dose of fertilizer. Not everyone CAN fertigate that way - it depends on your soil choice and watering habits, so don't emulate unless you understand the ramifications. After I'm done fertigating, I fill 5 - 1 gallon milk jugs with tap water and add just under 1/4 tsp of 9-3-6 to each, and let them rest for the 4 day interval between fertigating, so they come to room temperature. I've asked a LOT of degreed hort people if plants suffer adversity from being watered with cold water, and not one has ever offered anything conclusive that says it's either good or bad, other than potential damage to foliage on some plants, like AVs. Most bonsai books suggest that a cool drink during the midday time period is very helpful because it quickly cools roots down, so apparently the 'shock' thing is a perpetuated myth. Still, it's no extra effort to allow the water to come to room temp, so that's what I do. When I fertigate, I use a watering can with a long spout that allows me to reach plants in the center of my 4x8 growing areas. The spout has a fine nozzle that sends out a 1/8" stream of water, so it take on average about 20-30 seconds to water a plant. This allows me to wet the entire surface of the plant, so gravity moves the solution down through the entire soil mass. When I see water flowing into the collection saucer, I water for a few more seconds, then stop. My plants are set on pieces of plastic u-channel above the effluent, so I don't need to empty the saucers. The evaporating water means my humidifiers run less. When it's time to water, I pour 2 qts of fertigation solution from the gallon jug into the watering can. I then add 3 drops of ProTeKt while the water is still turbulent, so it mixes well. I don't mix it in until the last minute because mixing the fertilizer and ProTeKt ahead of time causes some of the elements to precipitate from (fall out of) the solution. You asked if the ProTeKt is necessary. I think it's good to remember that in many cases, we approach growing with only our own perspective in mind. Much disagreement arises between someone who thinks their way is good enough for everyone because they are happy with it, and the grower who has found a way superior to that particular way and wants to share it. People very often get defensive when someone suggests that what someone says or does isn't the best way. "Well, it works for me!" really isn't very conclusive when it comes to deciding what might or might not be best for the plant. In addition to that, some growers place a high premium on 'less maintenance is better (for me)', while the next grower is trying to make the point that MORE maintenance is better (for the plant). I tend to always speak from the perspective of how to get to what's best for the plant, and then let the grower decide if they want to go to any extra effort or expense that might be entailed in getting there. So, the ProTeKt isn't necessary if your goal is to raise a healthy plant. I had healthy plants for many years before I started using it, but after I started using it, I noticed a lower incidence of insect and disease issues, and I noticed that my plants seemed more resistant to temperature extremes. I noticed these things even before I read a few of the many studies that quantify the effects of aqueous Si on plants, so if I was dreaming, I was at least dreaming in accord with the conclusions of others who made the actual effort to nail down the Si's effects on plants. I can't really tell you it's necessary, but I can say with a fair degree of certainty that if you do use it regularly, it's going to be helpful. Al...See MoreSoluble organic fertilizer ok for Al's 5-1-1 in containers?
Comments (17)Thanks everyone. mikerno_1micha and Just Started(Sydney), I am not new to growing roses, I have large containers which are fabric pots (offering a cooler root zone and lots of aeration as well as air pruning, plants do not get root bound). This study of grow bags shows that roses grown in these containers grew much better than roses in plastic containers: https://smartpots.com/shrub-rose-responses-to-production-in-smart-pots-and-conventional-containers-using-two-contrasting-substrates/ I do have Foliage Pro which I use for my indoor plants, but did not think of using it on Roses. I will add that to the rotation. However, in my understanding roses also need a fertilizer that encourages bloom, and I am trying to follow the regime recommended by the American Rose Society, which alternates 4 types of fertilizers, but adapting it to containers - hence my interest in rotating a few kinds of fertilizers. William Cohen, great idea! Cheap and effective. I'd rather not eat Miracle Gro, but for my rose rotation it will be perfect. fungus thank you, that's what I was wondering. mblan13(S.C. PA - Zone 7a), THANK YOU! You hit it right on the head! FP for all the micros, and the (non-organic) others for the rest. I also get annoyed by websites that do not include labels, as I don't like standing in the summer heat at Lowes for hours reading labels and I often prefer to order online. About the Recharge: I don't know if it's helping or not, but the roses are EXPLODING with growth. I got 5 from Roses Unlimited which were small (compared to nursery roses), 1 year old plants, they did nothing for a month. However, after a few waterings with Recharge and a couple rounds of Peters they are going bonkers. Because I am using both, I can't isolate the effect of Recharge from the effect of Peters, but the soil looks great, water retention and drainage are perfect, and there is a weird fungus growing on the outside of some of the fabric pots that seems beneficial as the roses are thriving. Since I added some organic amendments at planting (Bone meal, Fish bone meal, Bloodmeal, etc), I can only conclude the Recharge is helping. After I planted them this way, I considered in the future switching to a more inorganic soil with inorganic only fertilizers, but seeing these results I'm quite happy. I expect some compaction in 1-2 years (although less than with normal potting soil since I did use Al's mix - but more as a 4-1-1 because of the Smart Pots study described above). At any rate, I too cringed at the cost of Recharge, but I use so little each time that I suspect the tub I got (the smallest they sell on Amazon) will last my 10 roses, Jasmine, and 5 bonsai at least a year. Thanks again, everyone! With your help and seeing how happy the roses are, this is my final plan (at least until I need to repot in 1-2 years): - diluted Recharge 1-2x a week - each watering, rotate, at 1/4 strength: Peters 20-20-20, Foliage Pro, Miracle Gro Rose, and Epsom Salts. Maybe occasionally the Alaskan fish emulsion since I'm using recharge. My Dr. Earth says on the back the ingredients are derived from organics (e.g., bone meal), so I will give that to my mother-in-law for the climbing rose I planted in the ground for her....See More- 14 years ago
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meyermike_1michaOriginal Author