Ruby:-)

I have a question for you if I may?

Why do you even want to use it if the mixes you are using are providing good aeration in the first place? There is no need for it in the gritty mix.

Mike:-)

Mike,

I really like the Gritty Mix for the great aeration. The problem is when I am worried about "my" particular Gritty Mix. This is the first time I tried the Gritty Mix, and I cannot guanrantee that it is made to the perfection to Al's instructions (I tried really really hard though).

I would like to use H2O2 as a preventative to root problems or provide my plants with the added oxygen in case that my gritty mix is not as functioning properly as possible.

Also, my michelia alba, I don't know, I am really worried for it, it doesn't seem to happy all of the sudden. Any advice?

Thank you,
Ruby

FWIW - I wrote & posted this about using H2O2 in containers a number of years ago and several times since.

H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule.

Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, and the free O- H2O2 releases is very effective at this. Additionally, when plants growing in water-retentive media are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi.

I know H2O2 comes in several different strengths, the most common of which are 3% and 35% solutions. Least expensive is the 35% product (what I use) which you dilute (to an approximate 3% solution) by mixing 1:11 with water. I have used the 3% solution at 1 to 2 tbsp per gallon as a cutting dip/soak, and have mixed it into irrigation water for plants in extremely water retentive soils at up to 3 tbsp per gallon, both with good results and nothing adverse apparent.

H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. A solution that is too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts.

I've seen this chart posted several times as suggested strength solutions for use in watering plants. You may wish to start at a lower concentration , such as I've used, and experiment.

TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

1 cup, add 1-1/2 teaspoons ... 35% - 7 to 10 drops
1 quart, add 2 tablespoons ... 35% - 1/2 teaspoon
1 gallon, add 1/2 cup ... 35% - 2 teaspoons
5 gallons, add 2-1/2 cups ... 35% - 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon
10 gallons, add 5 cups ... 35% - 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
20 gallons, add 10 cups ... 35% - 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

1) you can use them together w/no problems, but you shouldn't need it if you're watering correctly & the gritty mix is made even CLOSE to the suggested recipe.

2) Plants are reactive organisms. They will reach favorably to increased O2 in the root zone, and unfavorably to reduced levels. If you use excessive amounts of H2O2, it can kill viable tissues, so don't over use it.

3) Your plants won't get addicted to H2O2 to any greater degree than they are addicted to water.

I would urge you to lift the plant from the pot & take a look at the roots to see what's going on, then prune roots back to sound tissue if you find rot as an issue. At that point, a dunk in a solution of H2O2 or unscented household bleach might be an appropriate measure.

Al

Al,

Thank you so much for your help! It really helped!

I am so reluctant to lift the plant out of the pot...it has just been doing so well until now. Every time I transplant it/repot it, it has this incredibly slow recovery time...

I guess I am just hoping that the plant is fine because "it seems" to be good except no new growth...I know I should look at the roots...

Al, do plant roots always look white and fleshy (for most plants)? Can there be a tiny proportion of roots that are not? Maybe old roots that are going through their "normal" cycle?

Thank you,
Ruby