Fruitnut, I completely believe you (and I believe we have gone back and forth in other threads as well) for large scale production. However, the first poster, clearly says, that they have raised beds, which screams to me, it's a grower for home consumption, not to produce thousands of ears for market. In this case, I do honestly believe, My recommendation is far superior. If someone has 21 square feet (or even 100 square feet) to work with, I would bet my house on the fact that spacing two to a square feet will out perform (in numbers of ears) 2-2.5 square feet per plant recommendation you give, purely due to the fact, that in my 21 square feet, I will plant 42 stalks, and you will plant 8-10. If we are talking large scale production, where sun will not be able to hit all sides of the "bed" - then I am positive you are 100% correct. It all depends on the person asking the question, are they looking to plant a small space for home consumption, or plant on large scale - that will determine which method will have the best yield. Basically what I'm saying is, I don't think I'm disagreeing with fruitnut, just my solution is to a different question than fruitnut's solution is. I believe both recommendations are good - just one is for small scale, the other is for large scale.

Brick paths and tamped down gravel will both work well, if you fix the leaking beds...other wise, you'll have a real mess, especially with the gravel. I have grass for my paths, which work out very well and they're softer for the visiting nieces/nephews. When I water the garden, I water the paths, so they don't take much extra work, just a quick mow, once a week. Here's a few pictures of my garden...and if you look online at potagers, you'll find lots of ideas. Check out Jennifer Bartley's potager, to see bricks in a beautiful garden. Here's a link for more information :) Here is a link that might be useful: An American Potager

I agree with Gumby regarding grass. If it weren't for my son (3 years old now) and my wife's continual reminder ("He needs someplace to run around!") I would have removed all of my grass and replaced it with garden and pathways! Mowing is a chore, IMHO, and the more obstacles you have to mow around, the bigger the chore becomes. (And don't get me started on the line trimmer, what a wasted effort that is!) Mulch is very good. If you have a tree service nearby, ask for the wood chips. Lay down some cardboard or newspaper and lay the wood chips over the top. No fuss (once it's down), no weeds, no mowing, and it should last several years (it won't tie up nitrogen and stunt your plants - the wood chips are NOT incorporated into the soil), also it will retain moisture and not take up any water from the soil. Your plants roots (especially larger plants) will probably find their way under it eventually, and have no competition there (as they would with grass). Grass and vine weeds from a previous owner are my sworn enemies!!! 4 years of trying to completely remove the vines, and they keep sprouting up everywhere. Persistance will eventually pay off, but I am losing patience!

Carolyn - I'm seriously going to use upside down tomato cages for my squash next year. Also, i'll probably add more rings to the cage - by welding some galvanized wire to it. That'll make them work better for me...I just have to remember to drink my milk after the welding is done. Please tell me the secret to the black beauty variety...I must have missed something.. EG