Huge deep drainage ditch (what to do?)
xrox
13 years ago
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missingtheobvious
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Drainage ditch / weeds/ landscaping oh my!
Comments (2)A catch basin at the upper end of your ditch might reduce or elliminate sedimentation. It would have to be designed to be deep enough to slow the water down so it will drop particles it is carrying. Once a year or so you will be able to drain and excavate the debris from this spot leaving the rest of your stream much cleaner. The basin can be design tastefully. It is done here in Dallas Texas at several locations where people have dammed up stream beds which the city uses as storm sewers. The debris which is removed from the catch basin can be used as mulch or fill when it dries out....See MoreDrainage ditch / weeds/ landscaping oh my!
Comments (6)Here is an older picture of our yard- it was right after we finished the grading and drainage ditch. In the ditch picture link that was previously posted the stuff to the right is rocks my neighbor put down. He has several trees and a nice planting area. As you can see, when it rains his yard becomes the drain area. We just have the drain tube from the street that comes towards the back of our property. The ditch we installed helps send the water out back. This is a crazy set up but this is what the developer came up with and it was approved by the city. We have had city engineers out, they admit the previous guys should have never approved this, and they have washed their hands of it. We were told to do what we deemed necessary to stop our yard from flooding- without making enemies of course. The ditch can get a large volume of water as you can see but it no longer floods our yard. The ditch is only a foot deep at its lowest point. The small retaining wall in the picture is where the opening of the drain is. We were hiding from our sight. The biggest change was slowing the water flow. The opening of the tube from the street is about 3 feet. That is a lot of water. The opening is filled with bags of quickcrete to slow the water down. We tried sand bags, but during one rain storm it actually shot them out from the drain- quite a sight. From what I gather so far the sedge meadow/ vegetaded swale may be the best alternative. Probably cheaper than ordering more rocks which will get buried again....See MoreCan I grow fruit trees on the slope of a drainage ditch?
Comments (7)I planted several apple trees on the dike of a pond and others on a considerable slope. I had my best luck mounding the soil and planting the bare root tree actually above grade. My soil is quite sandy in some areas but the only amending I've done is adding some richer soil from a different area on my property to the mound soil. I mulch heavily with woodchips and water if it doesn't rain for 3 weeks or more. I don't know why the mounding approach seems to work so much better but the results have been pretty consistent. the only negative I've encounterreed is that the semi-dwarf trees on mounds take some staking to keep them growing vertical....See MorePlant for drainage ditch
Comments (11)ditto to babs and laceyvail. Astilbes love it moist - don't think they would like the standing water, but perhaps along the edge of the ditch... I updated an existing garden that is under water for parts of the year; it is at the base of a hill on one side, with a creek that runs along it on the other side. Often it has standing water for weeks on end, of at least 6 inches (I lost a shoe in there once, lol - foot came right out of it when I went to move!). I ended up planting a lot of shrubs, as this is a large area and we were looking for big things. I also wasn't planting right in the water flow, as it sounds like you may be doing, so that will affect what you plant compared to what I planted, but still, maybe this will be of some help. I'll list below (from hopefully-good memory) what we planted. - willow hakuro nishiki - probably way too big for you - I planted two of them, just to give you an idea of the large area I was dealing with. These are spectacular, though, IMO, if you wanted to consider one of them as a specimen... - astilbes - japanese and louisiana iris - clethra - itea - cephalanthus (lovely and underused, IMO, and some new dwarf (4-ft) varieties out there now, I see - redtwig dogwood - viburnum (probably too big for you) - deciduous hollies (again probably too big for you) - marsh marigold - bog rosemary - lobelia siphilitica and cardinalis - the siphilitica is truly beautiful, but I would not plant this again - very vigorous spreader and I just don't have time to maintain/control. The cardinalis is spectacular (and I don't even care for red blooms!) and I highly recommend this one. - ligularia - filipendula (can't remember which kind off the top of my head) - cimicifuga - swamp azalea - marsh hibiscus Already in this garden and doing surprisingly well were bleeding hearts, hosta, hydrangea, peonies, columbines and some kind of small bulb which I'm drawing a total blank on at the moment - like a scilla or something... ugh, sorry, can't think of it. And of course there are ferns, which were probably there before any garden was even thought of! There is also an elderberry which pre-existed the garden - this is along a wooded area so some things were growing there already, such as the elderberry, ferns, a clethra, etc. (plus virginia creeper, jewelweed, pokeberry, sigh....) I think that is most of it. Good luck to you!...See Morexrox
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