Help critique front native wildlife garden plans
Shannon
13 years ago
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mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Front Yard Worthy Native Garden
Comments (15)You can use the attached link to research some of the recommendations. My suggestions ... Ground Covers: Sunshine Mimosa - Mimosa strigillosa - Blue Porterweed - Stachytarpheta jamaicensis - groundcover, gets ratty in winter Ornamental Grasses: Elliott's Lovegrass - Eragrostis elliottii Muhlygrass - Muhlenbergia capillaris Dwarf Fakahatchee Grass - Tripsacum floridanum Wildflowers: Tickseed - Coreopsis leavenworthii - the state wildflower, not drought tolerant, prolific flowers if watered Blanket Flower - Gaillardia pulchella - prolific blooms most of the year, annual, self propagates like crazy Blackeyed Susan - Rudbeckia hirta Tropical Sage - Salvia coccinea - larger 2+', self propagates Wood Sage - Teucrium canadense - sends up 1' - 2' stalks, white flowers in summer, spreads by runners, not drought tolerant, use to fill between plants, will need to thin out to keep from overwhelming other plants Flowering Shrubs: Milkweed - Asclepias tuberosa - Monarch host - but will often be stripped of leaves Wild Lantana - Lantana involucrata - small to medium compact shrub, well behaved compared to the invasive tri-color variety Dotted Horsemint - Monarda punctata - medium shrub, striking flowers in late summer Rosinweed - Silphium asteriscus - butt ugly plant that sends up 4' high stalks with sunflower like blooms all year long - might be appropriate to create a layered look behind small flowering plants Medium Shrubs: Beautyberry - Callicarpa americana - purple berries Firebush - Hamelia patens - attractive bush with red tinged leaves and red flowers Wild coffee - Psychotria nervosa - lush green Rouge Plant - Rivina humilis - red small berries much of year - needs shade Large Shrubs / Small Trees: Spanish Stopper - Eugenia foetida - or any stopper Florida Privet - Forestiera segregata - Privet Cassia/Senna - Senna ligustrina - yellow flowers Walter's viburnum - Viburnum obovatum - will form a thicket if allowed - dwarf variety is small shrub (3-4') Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Native Plant Society - What to Grow...See MoreNeed ideas for natives for wildlife
Comments (9)HEy all. I'm following the list for a certified wildlife garden, so the kind of natives I'm looking for would produce - seeds, nuts, berries and nectar. Not on the same plant of course, LOL. I have full sun in the front yard, so they should be semi-pretty for the neighbors. The back yard is mostly shaded by giant maple trees, a Plum and two Apple trees. Stuff doesn't have tobe so pretty there, mostly useful for wildlife. Keep your suggestions comimg!...See MoreCritique this shade garden plan
Comments (14)Lots of good advice above. Here is my 2 cents for dealing with what many consider to be the second worst tree (after walnuts) to have in a spot where you want to garden. Norway mables are on the invasives list here in Illinois. Our village no longer plants them as parkway trees because they create too many volunteers that crowd out better trees, such as our native Burr Oaks. Ultimately you should get rid of those trees, because they are always going to be a huge problem. I suggest that you do it with a long range plan. First, get some vines growing up the spite fence between you and your neighbor. In due course, you can add a trellis or pergola for them to grow on to cut off the neighbors' view. When that is in place, take down the trees. But be careful what vines you plant because a lot of them are very agressive. Search in the forum on "vines for shade" for ideas on what to plant and what not to plant. Long range, climbing hydrangea will be a very good choice. However, that vine will seem to do nothing for about 3 years while it establishes its roots, after which it will climb slowing for another couple of years before it finally takes off. Be sure to attach some wires or cord to the fence for it to climb on, because its arial roots won't be able to attach to the wood fence. In the meantime, if you really have sun there from 7 to noon, you have good conditions for planting one or more "understory" trees. Cornus mas (a very easily grown dogwood that is one of the first trees to bloom in spring and that can be cut for winter forcing) is moderately priced and grows fast to about 20 feet. It can be easily trained as a hedge, and will do well in full sun after the maples come down. While you are waiting for all of this to grow up, thin out the mables. A good tree pruner can do this to create more mass on your neighbor's side while giving you lots more sun on your side. Down below, get your ground covers started, being sure to pick plants that will continue to do well after the maples come down. Any kind of hosta will grow in the sun you describe, although if they don't receive afternoon shade from the plantings between you and the spite fence, they will need to be replaced when the maples come down. Remember that the more water and food you give to hostas, the more delectible they become to slugs. Check out the hosta forum for tips on best selections. Then look for a neighbor who is surfeiting in hostas and will agree to supply you with what you need in return for help dividing them. Indeed, your best bet for all of the plantings you need except trees, is to seek out a local gardening mentor (probably an older person who is beginning to have some mobility problems) who would be willing to give you all of the advice and divisions you need in exchange for a smile, a chat and some help with the work. Ferns are not a great idea because they won't be able to take the sun once the maples are gone. Also, they need a lot of water and will have trouble competing with maple roots. Once the mables are gone, if you spot will have full morning sun followed by shade from afternoon sun, you will have a spot where you can grow a huge variety of plants....See MoreNeed help planning Native Borders
Comments (6)I am not entirely sure what you are looking for. A lot of gardening for me is researching plants, putting them in spots that fit their cultural needs, and then seeing how they do. If something doesn't work, I move it and try something different. I visit other private gardens, garden centers, and botanical gardens for inspiration and spend time looking at images on line, in magazines, and in garden books from the library. I do best at making suggestions with photos, though the plan view gives a good overview and will help place photos if you letter or number both the photos and where they are on the plan. Can you add some photos? Have them include something that indicates the type of shade if possible. For instance, overhanging trees provide deeper shade than the white wall of a one story house which has a lot of indirect light. Natives are a nebulous concept. Do you mean native to the NE US? If so, New England and New York are almost entirely forested by nature if they aren't kept open. Or just native to the US? That will give your more options. If you are open to nonnative, you have an even wider set of possibilities. Many of the plants you mention (such as purple iris) could be any one of a number of species so I don't know what to suggest about them. I grow several kinds of purple iris: reticulated, Japanese, Siberian, native Iris versicolor/blue flag, and some purple bearded iris, both tall and short. There are several species of Oenothera and Baptisia, but the Baptisia all need a fair amount of sun, so that may explain the slow-growing aspect and the different Oenothera have differing behaviors. Beware of your packet of wildflower seeds. Unless you checked species and are sure that they are actually natives, you may have sown a set of weedy non-natives. Often "wildflower" seeds are just easy self-sowers that aren't natives. I made that mistake a number of years ago and am still removing some volunteers of non-natives that are basically weeds with pretty flowers, but want to take over the whole garden via prolific seeding. 3' and 4' deep is quite shallow for a bed that long, especially with prairie plants that don't always stand upright. I would add enough extra depth to make it a minimum of 5'-6' deep. That will give you enough depth to have more than a single line of plants (or two) for more interest and longer bloom times. Also, be aware that prairie plants really need full sun, and it sounds like several of your areas have too much shade. Look into natives that do well in your area such as some of the asters (US natives are now in the genus Symphyotrichum though not all nurseries have caught up), milkweeds, etc. Check out Lupine, Amsonia cilliata or Amsonia hubrichtii and Rudbeckia. If you are looking for natives for shade, be sure to find ethically sourced plants, not dug wild plants, so they should say nursery propogated, not just nursery raised. These would include Tiarella, coral bells/Heuchera, ginger/Asarum canadense, Trilliums, bloodroot/Sanguinaria canadensis, spring beauty/Claytonia viriginica, Jack-in-the-pulpit, a few of kinds of Maianthemum (false Solomon's seal/M. racemosa, M. stellata, and Canada mayflower/M. canadense), partridge berry/Mitchella repens, wintergreen/Gaultheria procumbens, and Phlox divaricata and P. maculata. Don't forget native shrubs, many of which will do well in your partly shaded areas. Hydrangea arborescens (Annabelle is one cultivar), spicebush/Lindera benzoin, native deciduous azaleas and their cultivars, several Viburnums, all of which have nice flowers, berries if you have different cultivars or wild type of the same species, and and lovely autumn color. Sambucus/elderberry likes sun and is much enjoyed by pollinators and birds, though they tend to sucker and spread. Look at Fothergilla which has honey-scented, bottle brush spring flowers and stunning fall color, especially when it gets at least a half day of good light. Consider having some plants with winter interest since winter in your area, like in mine, can be long and gray. Evergreen perennials look good in late fall until the snow falls, and then woody plants with nice structure or bark or evergreen leaves (either broadleafed or needled) look good. Put the winter interest plants where they will be visible from windows that overlook the yard. Look at cultivars of native red-twigged dogwoods/Cornus, striped AKA moose maple/Acer pensylvanicum, and Cornus alternifolia/pagoda dogwood for winter bark or shape, and rhododendrons (many of the natives are quite large) and mountain laurel/Kalmia latifolia for broadleafed evergreen foliage. Most of these will do fine in part shade. Evergreen conifers such as some of the smaller cultivars of Thuja occidentalis/white cedar or any smaller selections of the native firs and spruces will provide not only green, blue, or gold foliage all year, but winter shelter and nesting for birds along with the rhodies. I much prefer Lonicera sempervirens, the native coral or trumpet honeysuckle, to Virginia creeper in a yard like this since VC/Parthenocissus quinquefolia tends to spread where not wanted with underground stems/suckers. I grow both, but VC is restricted to wooded areas because of its aggressive spreading while the honeysuckle is well-behaved, though large. I have the cultivar Major Wheeler, which has a really heavy bloom in late spring followed by continuous bloom all summer on new growth. The hummingbirds love it. I don't understand the area around the patio and garage. Are those paths along the side and back of the garage, and where is the back door? How will you fit in the trellised honeysuckle? I would remove the thin strips of sod on both sides of the patio. IME most folks don't use a sitting area as far from the house as the far corner of your yard since shlepping a beverage, reading matter, etc. out there can be a bit of a hassle. If you would use it, then fine, but I would be more likely to shade the patio near the house since it is more likely to be used, and put some of the larger shrubs such as some of the native Rhododendron maximum cultivars there....See Moresleepy33
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