Banana plants stop growing altogether at temps below 55F (13C). So tempertures in the 50F - 55F range should halt all new growth.

I've over-wintered in the basement, too. I simply prune the plants back very hard after they're allowed to dry down so they're almost completely dry. They then rest in the cool basement & go through a situational or environmental dormancy related to the dry soil and cool conditions. In spring, I remove the bottom 2/3 of the root mass and bare-root/root prune what's left, before repotting into a fast-draining soil comprised mainly of pine bark fines. Root maintenance is very important if you want to get all you can from hibs. Their rebellion at tight roots includes lots of aborted buds, poor branch extension, and that 'tufted' or 'poodle' look where the foliage growth tends to be concentrated only near the apical meristems (growing tips of branches), not to mention an overall reduction in vitality. Al

I suspected my soil or weather had much to do with seeing different spreading characteristics. My soil is very heavy clay and my weather is one of changeability and extremes. We can have weeks of rain or weeks of no rain. Summer temps top out at high 90's F and winter can be as low as -10 F. Heck, just a few weeks back we had temperatures with lows at night of 49 F and the next week the high temps were 95 F. And the joke here is that we only have 2 weeks of summer and about 6 months of winter. I suspect the conditions like this is what caused many of the native plants here to require cold stratification to break the seed dormancy. This way their germination is timed to take place in the spring when conditions would be easier for young seedlings. And yes, I love green in the garden. I don't see a "sea of green." I see the distinct leaves shapes, plant shapes, shades of green, and more. While I do enjoy blooms, I find the foliage just as interesting and enjoyable. FataMorgana

Lovage will tolerate either full sun or partial shade, depending on prevailing climate conditions. It grows best in climates where it can receive a period of dormancy in winter. In spring, or when the centres of the plants start to die out, established plants can be divided by digging up the dormant clumps and splitting them with a sharp spade. Sow seed in autumn as soon as they ripen, at an ideal temperature of 20�C, and about 5mm deep. Seeds are viable for 2-3 years. They need light to germinate, so just barely cover them, and they usually germinate in less than 2 weeks. Grown from seed, the plant may take 3-4 years to reach full maturity. Seeds do not store well, so use seed which is as fresh as possible. It prefers a very rich, moist but not heavy soil. If in sandy soil, fertilise well for good leaf colour. The plant dies back in winter but grows back in spring. Mulch the roots to protect against freezing. Lovage can be grown in a container. Make sure you keep it trimmed � it can withstand heavy pruning. Prefers a soil with pH 5.0-7.6. It is a very adaptable plant and frequently occurs as a garden escape. It will last several years if well cared for, usually about 8 years. After about 4 years when it becomes too woody, the roots can be used as a vegetable after the bitter skin has been removed. Keep the plants well watered in autumn and spring. Water deeply to encourage deep root development and take special care that young plants are never allowed to dry out. Lovage is susceptible to leaf miners.