@meyermike, yes its repti-bark. LOL. So yeah, its good to use? While at the pet store I looked at the aquarium rocks. I wonder if I could use the gravel in place of the Granite-i-grit (though the aquarium rocks did not list what kind of rocks they were.) What do you think? They also had some crushed coral - wonder if that would work in place of gypsum... Like I said, I'm doing this because I don't need 50lb bags of turface or granite grit. I'm pretty sure I can buy both of those at Agway but what am I gonna do with it all??? I've learned that Schultz Aquatic Soil is the same thing as Turface - love that it comes in a smaller bag - but cannot find it for the life of me! HD nor Lowes sells it (anymore!)

See if you can find a hydroponics store in your area. I get my coir from a hydroponics store near me and they sell it for $1.99 per brick. A brick hydrates to about 2 gallons (about the same volume of the bags of peat I got at Wal-mart for $2.78). You might not find it quite that cheap in NY, but if you can find it locally, you will at least save on shipping. I use Al's recipe and have had good results with the coir. It rewets easily which is a big plus for me in my hot and dry conditions. Lydia

Nurseries on the west coast where root rot is not too much of a problem, use fir bark particles to root and grow cuttings. They sell the plants in fir bark with no soil. Pine bark is alleged to work as well. There are 4 things that contribute to rhododendron demise due to Phytophthora root rot: 1) the pathogen must be present, but it usually is. You can buy disease-free plants and use a sterile medium to plant in. 2) moist conditions must exist. Provide excellent drainage. 3) warm temperatures must exist, and hot is ideal. Keep the root zone cool with mulch and partial shade. 4) the rhododendron variety or species must be susceptible to Phytophthora. Use a resistant variety or species. According to Clemson University, the rhododendron hybrids: Caroline, Martha Isaacson, Professor Hugo de Vries and Red Head are considered resistant and the rhododendron species: R. davidsonianum, R. delavayi, R. glomerulatum, R. hyperythrum, R. lapponicum, R. poukhanense, R. pseudochrysanthum, R. quinquefolium, and R. websterianum are resistant. An aggravating factor is planting too deeply in the soil. The North Carolina extension service recommends: Set root-rot susceptible plants in raised beds and thoroughly mix a porous material such as bark (not sawdust or peat) into the bed. The material should be incorporated to a depth of 8-12 inches. In some areas drain tile and gravel placed 6-12 inches below the surface may also help reduce excess soil moisture. All newly planted rhododendrons should be watched closely for symptoms, and infected plants or prunings should be removed promptly.

Try calling around garden centres -- not just the seasonal ones but those like Humber Nurseries in Mississauga, or Sheridan Nurseries in North York. Or if this is seriously for orchid growing medium - then there are orchid societies here who can at least provide directions. Start with contacting the Toronto Botanical Garden for information on such clubs because I do know they host annuals orchids show there.