I am not exactly sure what you are asking, but i will try to cover the possibilities. Red maple will usually grow faster then Norway maple, and will grow taller, so it should be able to stay above the norway maple and survive very well. But over time, Norway maple, on most sites (very dry sites and very wet sites may be different) Norway maple, being better able to reproduce and grow in the shade of other trees, will replace red maple. --Spruce

Laws vary from state to state, but in much of New England trees located close to property boundaries are known as "line trees" and are considered to belong to both property owners. The roots of a Norway maple are extensive and usually extend well beyond the tree's canopy. Eight feet is awfully close to the foundation and house for a tree of this size. A poured monolithic foundation is quite resistant to any root penetration, but it's a very different story with block foundations and (especially) stone ones. A root with the diameter of a hair can penetrate through a very narrow opening and then gradually increase in diameter enough cause damage. jean001a's suggestion is a good one. The damage done to the roots by the neighbor's construction may well have created a dangerous situation for both you and your neighbor. Since you are very likely co-owners of the tree, you are equally responsible - including financially responsible - for removing the tree if that is the recommendation of a qualified arborist. Again, check your state laws on this. Stump grinding is usually a pretty minor expense compared to taking down a large tree in a location that requires lots of care to avoid damage to buildings, etc. Unless the roots have already penetrated the foundation, I don't see any way removing the stump would cause damage to it.

Here is the range of responses to this question ranging from nothing to quite a selection. The low light, dry soil, surface roots and the seedlings present a challenge. (Limbing up (removing lower branches) and planting away from the trunk will improve your choices. (Ed.) Nothing seems to grow under a mature Norway Maple. I would cut it down, buy a new tree and start from scratch. I hate to be so negative but I've had to do it. It is dry in the shade of just about any maple, but Norway Maples in particular cast very dense shade. You might be able to get something to grow under there, but it will be a real challenge finding plants that can take the lack of moisture and light. My grass does grow quite well under it We have Elephant Ear, Caladium, Coleus, Impatiens, Azaleas and Lilies growing under our Norway Maple The Azaleas and spring bulbs have bloomed before the tree leafs out completely and the others grow wonderfully in the moist/shady conditions provided by the dense canopy. (Moist shade? Ed.) Epimediums are an excellent choice for dry shade. I started a shade garden under 30 year old maple about 4 years ago. The farther from the base of the tree, the more will grow and the more lush the plants. What has grown best for me, Hosta and Christmas fern. For spring flowers hardy Geraniums "Karmina" and "Biokovo". I planted them last year and they not only tripled in size but bloomed profusely. Stay away from most Astilbe, they need moisture. They may "exist" but will not perform. I have had luck with one variety, though, A. Chinensis. It is dwarf, blooms in August, and has spread into a nice ground cover. Toad lilies for fall. I really love them. You may want to give Plumbago larpentae (Certostigma plumbaginoides) a try. It is now in bloom at the base of the tree. Don't plant too close, and plant so you'll get some sun. But you'll always have to pull up gazillions of unwanted seedlings every spring, And you'll always have to remove the leaves in the spring, since maple leaves compact and plants can't grow through them. I have had luck with Iris, Lamium, specimen grasses (Miscanthus), Columbines, Penstemmon, Sedums, Pansies, Violas, and Geraniums (Johnsons blue and natives) in dry shade. I also only set out small plants that do not require me to dig deep holes. I grow Daffodils and Bluebells under maples and also find that Azaleas and Camellias do well as flowering shrubs. My Hellebores also love living in the mulch. My neighbor has success with Japanese anemonies, also known as windflowers Pulmanaria does well for me under dense lilacs Thalictrum does great under dry shade. My Toad Lily needs a lot of moisture Sweet Williams are growing wonderfully under my Maple...as are Daffodils, Hyacinth's (including the little Grape Hyacinth), Solomons Seal, Day Lily, Widows Tears (or Trinity Plant), Shasta Daises, Astilbe, Hostas (Sum and Substance), Coreopsis (Sunray), Creeping Phlox too. Another strong plant that tolerates these conditions is Lamiastrum 'Herman's Pride' (the one that is NOT invasive)--beautiful silvery green foliage and pretty yellow flowers in spring But Dicentra (wild and common) do fine, as do Toad Lilies, Solomons Seal, Filipendula, several ornamental grasses, of course ferns, Heuchera, Aconitum (Monkshood), Epimediums, Yews, Pieris andromeda, Kalmia (Mountain Laurel), shade-loving vines.

norways also tend to have surface roots.. down thru the decades.. and with their very dense canopies ... might cause nothing to be grown under them ... including potential inability to grow grass .. keep in mind... i am talking 20 to 40 years from now ... also keep in mind.. you can always plan on removal ... somewhere down the line ... my usual deadline was the season i could take it down for free ... as my drop dead decision season ... my favorite trick.. is to google up the latin name ... and then read up. AND .. flip to google images ... to SEE ... the future ... your reliance on common names ... is part of what is holding you back.. to get good info ... ken PS ALL trees can split on the sun side in winter.. its more a function of proper planting .. and proper after care ... and maybe some winter protection for the first few years.. rather than a trait of a given tree ... in other words.. its a stress reaction ... PPS: it would be nice.. to know more about your whole property and goals and stuff ... you have done quite a few posts here .. and frankly.. i hope you have some acreage .... maybe you addressed this in some other post.. or maybe you could start a new post on the whole process ... first to this page to find the latin ... i see it in 1st link ... https://www.google.com/search?q=Deborah+Maple+Tree&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 then using such .. this link https://www.google.com/search?q=Acer+platanoides+%27Deborah%27&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 then to this link https://www.google.com/search?q=Acer+platanoides+%27Deborah%27&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjoiPrgsb7MAhVHmoMKHb-ZB_kQ_AUIBygB&biw=935&bih=745&dpr=0.9