Moso loves heat, what it doesn't like is a low relative humidity combined with that heat (Anderson, SC often gets summer high temps over 100F). When grown in hot, low RH conditions, its upper leaves tend to stay curled throughout the heat of the day. When the leaves are curled, there is little photosynthesis going on, and that is what is needed to produce large culms. During summer dry spells with its attendant lower RH, I have watched the leves in the upper canopy of my moso groves curl when the sun is out and then uncurl several minutes after the sun goes behind a cloud, then quickly curl again when the sun comes back out. Your best hope for growing large diameter moso in CA is to find a location in the midst of a forest of trees where their transpiration serves to raise the local RH. This is how Prafrance in southern France manages to grow large moso in a mediterranian climate. Plant it smack in the middle of 28 acres of bamboo with a few streams and ponds scattered throughout. You may want to carry a hygrometer with you as you search for the perfect spot.

Yeah, I'm still wondering about the avocados. I had trouble growing them in my back yard when I planted a tree in the ground because my soil does not drain properly, but there is an incredibly huge avocado tree just down the street from me. Anyway, I ended up planting one in a whiskey barrel planter so that I could control the drainage better, and it produces avocados. However, I noticed a few months ago that the soil level was lowered by about 6-8", and I thought the tree had used up all the soil. Last week we transplanted it to a new whiskey barrel planter, and what had happened was that the barrel had rotten at the bottom, and everything just sank down. The tree was not root-bound, but now it has a lot more new soil. Anyway, you can get avocados from trees in planters. Mine is a dwarf.

Never say never-but I doubt it. The bay area has to be the limit of possible survival most people would think,and where you would find them for sale...even though I know that they do well in between big freezes in the valley. The high heat puts on faster growth. At the least you could ask a Lowes or HD or Orchard Supply to order them.

I know this is an old link... did you ever buy a greenhouse? If not, you might want to read on. If so, what has been your experience? I have just finished reading an entire book about building and managing your own greenhouse (Rodale Press, available at Sac County Library, www.saclib.org GREAT online library services!). As a result of this reading, I have decided not to do greenhouses. They are expensive, if done right and to last, and require a great deal of work and expense to maintain, heat and cool. In addition, the winters here (Sacramento, valley floor) are mild enough that many crops, planted in July, August and September, will grow and produce throughout the winter. A sunny window sill is all you need to start seeds for your spring crop early. Unless you are growing rare tropicals that you simply "must have," I agree with LilyDude: there are other, less expensive options that will suit your needs. If you have not looked into these options, read up on: Cold frames--easily built from salvaged lumber and old windows. Check the Habitat for Humanity Restore (at the end of North Seventh Street, off Richards Blvd. http://www.shfh.org/restore/) for cheap, double paned windows and other new and used building materials. Hoop Shelters: Mel Bartholomew, author of "Square Foot Gardening" has developed an easy-to-make hoop frame system using 1x4 lumber and chicken wire that can be covered, interchangebly, with clear vinyl, bird netting, or shade cloth, depending on what is needed at any given time. Plus, they are cheap to make, lightweight and portable. With a few modifications, you can even build them to break down easily for storage in the attic when you're not using them. Who could ask for more? Even cheaper, the old milk jugs and water bottles, placed over your seedlings (these are called cloches) are the cheapest way to go, and very effective. However, for a better germination rate, I would recommend starting your seeds indoors and transplanting after they have at least one set of true leaves (2-4" is the ideal size for transplanting), then cover them with the cloches. The heat generated during the day and retained at night by the cloches might not be enough for them to germinate reliably. NOTES: Reflective insulation is a good idea, but regarding using water bottles to collect heat during the day and release throughout the night: this is certainly done by many greenhouse gardeners, and is not "wrong;" however, Rodale does not recommend this, as the water mass to be heated competes with the plants for heat. In Sacramento, with our mild winters, this would probably not be a huge concern, but worth mentioning. A better use of water for retaining heat, in my opinion: the WalloWater is great for Sacramento's hot summers. They collect heat in early Spring to get seedlings established, then work night and day during the summer: cooling the plant's roots throughout the blasting summer days and then releasing the heat throughout the night, for a more stable 24/7 temperature. They are available at Capital Nursery in Elk Grove and on Freeport Blvd. www.wallowater.com