We installed a 16x32 pool cover over my greenhouse just a few days ago. It fit perfectly from ground level, over the roof of the greenhouse and down the other side to the ground again with a few feet left over. On the south side, which won't catch as much wind because of a cedar windbreak, we installed tarp clipits (with dowels inserted into the fold for the clip to catch on-a variation on the toothpick idea) and screwed the clipits, with washers, directly to the greenhouse base, which is wood. On the other side, there was enough cover left over at ground level, that we just laid some very large peices of leftover telephone poles (from a building-a-very-large-arbour project) on it to hold it down. Then we screwed strips of 1x1 wood down the sides of the pool cover, directly to the greenhouse, so the wind could not create that tunnel effect. I have a pitched roof, one side being glass and the other (north) side is insulated roof with asphalt shingles. In that side, at the ridge line, is a window vent that opens automatically if the temps get too warm in the greenhouse. We cut a square out of the pool cover at that window vent so it could open freely and will use the Weatherwise duct tape to secure all around the edges. Hopefully, this will do the job as we get some pretty strong winds around here, being surrounded by empty farmfields in the winter.

I wouldn't put plant food in the water, but I would remove some of the lower leaves. It won't encourage root formation, but it will reduce the load on the plant - it's not as able to take up water right now as it was before so not having to support all the leaves will help it. Be sure to remove it from the water and plant it right away when you see roots forming - roots that form in water are quite different then roots that form in soil. It will just have to grow new soil roots and be delayed even further if you leave it too long in the water. About a week after you have planted it you can fertilize it. It may still not root in time to save it, but it's certainly worth the try. I would recommend you do a Google Image Search on cutworms so you know exactly what they look like, then go out and search over your remaining plants for anything that looks like that and squish it (or drop it into a can of soapy water if squishing isn't your cup of tea). You can sift through the top layer of soil for them and remove them. You can also treat with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) - it's safe to use around children and pets - it's a bacteria that's lethal to larvae (any good nursery should have it, but places like Home Depot aren't likely to know what you're talking about). And unless you're positive it was a cutworm, keep an eye out for bunnies or squirrels - my squirrels will chomp through tomato plants so I have to cover them with netting. BP

It is phosphorous deficiency and both of the fertilizers you are using are low phos so some additional supplement is needed. Soft rock phosphate is the quickest acting organic, a dose of MG the fasted synthetic solution.. You can Google pics of 'phosphorous deficiency in tomato plants' for pics to compare if you wish. As Linda said, it is difficult to grow organically in containers. There is no soil food web to feed the plants so you have to provide all the nutrients on a regular basis and during periods of heavy rain that often means weekly. Dave.

Thanks so much for all the info. I tried to shake some of the flowers today. I have decided to completely stop fertilizing it- until it tells me it needs it:) Yes, I have been pruning the German Queen- not at first, but when it didn't set fruit and all our other plants did I started- at that point it was about 7 feet tall but not very bushy. I'm pretty sure we get enough sun back there. The back garden (where the G.Q. is planted) gets at least 7 hours of light- but it's southern exposure so it does not get full California sun. Honestly, in my non-expert opinion, I think this is a good thing. Our full sun plants do not do as well and they need to be watered every other day (according to the ground gauges) even though we heavily amended the soil before we planted because we have very sandy soil to begin with. This pic was taken in the early evening- like 6ish. There is a 6 foot brick wall blocking in the garden about a foot away out of frame- but it doesn't seem to block much light because the sun goes almost directly over the garden (there is no roof overhang because it's red tile). The plant is leggy though. A lot of the (leggyness looks worse in this pic then it was because we had a bad mold problem that killed or wilted most of the bottom leaves- I just cut them off because nothing was stopping it. I've been told that in Redondo, because of the humidity and cooler temps, mold (powdery mildew) is a big problem- it nearly killed the whole garden this year. However, this tomato has always been more leggy then our others. We were not using stakes- we were doubling the triangle wire tomato cages that they sell around here- they're about 4 feet tall- the German queen had grown all the way over the top and to the ground before we rigged this contraption. I would have left it, but the mold is much worse closer to the ground. The good thing (mold-wise) is that it never rains here (Actually, I shouldn't say never, it did once- for about 20 minutes back in early May, and powdery Mildew covered every plant we had by sunset). My neighbor planted tomatoes in the same spot like 5 or 6 years ago- he said that they grew 3 years before they died out... So, if there is a possibility that they'll grow back, should I cut them down to the ground then when they die out? Or should I leave them to wilt on the ground? Or does it matter? There's probably 30 flowers on it right now, but It's always been covered with flowers- they just don't turn into tomatoes. Thanks again!