I found some blossom set spray I bought in the past, and some calcium water for blossom end rot. trash can.

I think the KEY IS-Calcium Acetate. Dolomite Lime just add Mag. to the mix. Other Acids can do a Ca. thing. IF the net is right???? Acetate can be used by plants ON CONTACT. If the stuff I read AND seems to work is right...FOR MY GROW. I'd bet any organic thing inolved in an Aetate COULD probably work for all kinds of home made organic nutes. As I understand it,Acetates/Vinegar produced stuff. Not a problem as far as being too acid etc. Doesn't mess with PH,What I make is WAY less than 5% acid of Vinegar. At 2 or so oz. per Gal. or less,I doubt it has ANY effect on PH. I've used it without problems in my Hydro grows. BUT I change nutes often. Cheaper and LESS time consuming than messing with PH up or down... Smoke

Blossom Drop FAQ Search 'Blossom Drop' the condition for which you are recommending this spray - which has been around for eons by the way - for many discussions here and much more info on the web. The folks who often rate/recommend/review/swear by these products usually don't understand the relationships between blossom drop and the weather (specifically ambient temps and humidity), the use of fertilizers, and the role played by a proper watering regimen. The sprays just treat the symptoms. It is better to eliminate the underlying cause when it is possible to do so. So they panic. We get posts all the time - "Help! Why did the blooms fall off? Why didn't I get a tomato!?" Then someone says - Try this spray, it's great!" That is followed with a post "Why is my tomato all deformed?" The bloom they sprayed formed a tomato - even if it is an ugly one - so they think they cured the problem when in truth all they did was put a band aid on that particular bloom. Their future tomatoes - sprayed or unsprayed - are a result of coincidence and settled weather or a modification in the watering and feeding of the plant. With the understanding that that not every single bloom is supposed to become a tomato and with proper watering and feeding and a bit of patience with the weather, blossom drop goes away all on its own. ;) Dave

Alikhat, I see that you recently joined GardenWeb, welcome to the Tomato Forum. Everyone else that wants to read this post may want to grab a cuppa, it will probably be kinda long.  What part of California are you in? There's a lot of growing zones in California, all the way from 4a near Yosemite to Santa Monica's 11a. What works in one zone, may have no relevance to another zone. If you'd like answers from other GW members that are useful to you, its a good idea to include your location and/or zone in your profile so it shows on your posts. Now, on to the problems at hand. Even though kellogggarden.com lists their GARDNER & BLOOME® POTTING SOIL Natural & Organic For All Indoor & Outdoor Potting as "Ideal for indoor & outdoor potting, container planting, raised bed applications & an excellent addition to existing garden soil.” I have to wonder if that isn’t part of the issue. It is described as ”Organic, long-lasting ingredients including chicken manure, peat moss, worm castings & kelp meal. Perfectly balanced with essential plant nutrients & special water-saving formula features for excellent growth.” Mixes with manure in them tend to compact and not drain well. Your leaves could be droopy and the plants stunted from not enough air and too much water at the roots because of their water-saving feature and compaction of the growing medium. If you are in a zone like 5 or 6, and the weather has been cool, watering every other day may be fine. But, on the other hand if you are in zone 10 or 11, the plants may appear droopy because they aren’t getting enough water. GardenWebber sprouts_honor (Jennifer from Cleveland) had a wonderful suggestion on how to tell whether or not you need to water your tomatoes, and I quote here: ”Get a wooden dowel rod (or two) and sink it in the ground near a plant or two and leave it. Pull it out when you think you need to water. If the top is dry and the bottom is a little damp, it’s time to water. If it looks dark and feels saturated, wait to water. I use this technique with potted plants that don’t like being over watered and it’s helpful with in ground plants too.” If your moisture is right, it may likely be that your plants are starving. As edweather indicated, plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or so depending on the condition of the plant. Additionally, they may not be able to utilize the nutrients in the “organic” mix you have them planted in because containers don’t usually have the “micro-herd” found in soil that helps plants use many types of micro-nutrients other than NPK. Looking at the stems of your plants, I am surprised the stems are not sturdier. When my tomato plants are that tall, the main stems look almost like small trees, and are 2 - 3 inches (or more) in diameter, the fine stems are possibly another indicator of the need for feeding more often. I don’t see any leaf roll, but I do see droopy leaves: When you've checked the moisture level of the growing medium 3-5" below the surface, you may have an aswer to what is going on with your plants. If it is soggy, they are drowning (and the paleness of the leaves could be an indicator) if it is dry, they need more water, if it is just right, something else is going on. Betsy