Here is a little info on it. Thanks everyone for the rapid replies, I was a convinced at first it was good stuff but now I am a little woried. BioComp BioComp®, a Class I quality compost, is a stabilized organic material that can be used with all plant types and in any type of soil (sandy to clay). This compost (screened 3/8 inch minus) greatly enhances overall soil structure and improves movement of air and water within the soil  essential to healthy plant growth. When salts are a critical design factor, BioComp® is the compost of choice. Low salts also mean that you can safely double the amount of compost used and still have vigorous plant growth. Salt in BioComp® are primarily from nutrient salts and not sodium chloride, as indicated by an ag index greater than 10. BioComp® is listed by the Colorado Department of Agriculture as an amendment approved for use on Organically Certified Crops. Independent testing by Colorado State University confirm that BioComp® safely provides higher levels of nutrients. Application Rates: As a Top Dressing  BioComp® can be used as a top dressing, however the large particles limit its use to where grass is mowed high.  1/4" to 3/8 (1 to 2 CY/1000 sq ft) As a Soil Amendment  BioComp® can be used at any time of the year, in any type of soil. It is especially well suited for use in clay soils where it can be used at twice the normal application rate.  3 CY/1000 sq ft or 1" Deep  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Deep As a Mulch This is one of the few composts that can be safely used an a mulch. It can be used for the protection of flower beds, especially perennials and sensitive root crops.  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Inches Deep  12 CY/1000 sq ft or 4" Inches Deep (Fall application only. Till in the spring.) This compost product has been sampled and tested as required by the Seal of Testing Assurance Program of the United States Composting Council (USCC). Test results are available upon request by calling A1 Organics at 970-454-3492. Class I Compost

That looks great especially the hoop house you built over it. It might still be too cold for pumpkins and cucumbers. Also, pumpkins (and cucumbers) are larger plants; a vine might sprawl over the edge of your box and make its way toward that tree. Once the seeds have sprouted you can begin watering less frequently, perhaps 1-2 times per week or when the soil begins to dry out a few inches below the surface. One of those string lined squares will fit something like 15-40 carrots. Look into square foot gardening for more suggestions (there is a forum here for SFG as well as a book with the same title).

Hi christyinco You have had answers that probably work in Florida and England, but not in dry, windy Colorado. Water daily, twice a day for small-seeded plants like lettuce and carrots. For the very small seeds, I like to put down a row cover, flat on the soil, and water over that. It keeps the seeds from washing out of the soil, and then it holds the moisture a bit longer. Using a sprinkler is fine, hand watering is a pain, and getting enough moisture into dry clay or limestone soil is hard with a bucket and cup. Many references say to put 1 inch of water on your garden a week. That works in the eastern third of the country, where there is water already in the soil. Don't bet on it in Colorado. Put at least 15 minutes of sprinkler water on your garden every day until the plants get up and established. Then you can switch to drip irrigation, if you want, and water every other day. Mulch, mulch, mulch! I use pine straw because I live at the edge of a forest. Nice stuff, it grabs and doesn't blow very much. But if I lived in an urban area without access to pine straw, I would use grass clippings, alfalfa hay, alfalfa pellets (like rabbit food), wheat straw, or purchased compost for mulch. You can find the hay, alfalfa pellets, and wheat straw at feed stores, and there should be one fairly near you even in big cities like Denver and Colorado Springs. When the summer rains start in July and August, keep watering your garden every other day unless you have standing water after a storm. Yes, natural rain is nice, but we really don't get enough of it even in the rainy season. My advice. Water more. It is really hard to overwater in the arid mountain west! Catherine (chronic under-waterer)

I made all three of the most common mistakes... The first was starting out too big (much larger than your plot - yours sounds like a nice size) & quickly getting so overwhelmed & disgusted that it was a couple years before I tried again. Second mistake was overwatering - I quickly learned to stick my finger deep into the soil & if it's completely dry it's time to water. Third mistake was not fertilizing. That's as bad as overfertilizing. It took a few years of trial & error, but I finally figured out that an inch of composted cow manure on each new crop is all I need for most things. I use fish emulsion & liquid seaweed if I need something extra, & am trying turkey compost on the heavy nitrogen feeders this year. One more piece of advice for you - if you ask five gardeners the same question you'll get six opinions, so try not to get overwhelmed by it all. Good luck! And don't ever forget that this is supposed to be fun. :)