No, not correct. On an established plant, the big roots serve mainly for stability and as connection points for the smaller, hairlike and near microscopic roots that do all the heavy lifting for the plant in terms of nutrient/gas/liquid absorption. That said, you may still want some thicker ones for pure stability in the pot for windy days if outside. If in doubt, just cut off the bottom 1/3, trim the sides in so they're well away from the inner pot wall, fan the remaining roots out radially like spokes on a wheel if staring straight down at the plant, then set it on top of the "volcano" mound of new Gritty in the pot. Add the remaining gritty methodically so you fill in as many gaps or potential gaps as possible. Use a wood BBQ skewer or plastic fork to gently poke mix into and among the fanned out roots. If you see a few large, old gnarled roots, it is actually a healthy practice to cut those out as long as removing those won't make your plant topple.

I use vinegar regularly with good results in the winter as well as a TBS of dawn dish washing liquid per gallon and 1/2 strength 5-1-2 or close equivalency. If the roots are not yet bound and you are potting up would say no to root pruning. These roots have very little pruning and are 49 weeks old from seed. That is of their latest picture. click link for album connection and click to open Here is a link that might be useful: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/111099372377958308731/albums/5961857381151877457

And follow the standard rules. if your plant is in a medium that is different from what it's to going into remove it all and only use the stuff in the new pot, or ground. No matter how much better the soil on the roots is the tree would rather have the crappy soil so all of the roots are in the same stuff. Google bath tub effect for more information. You can use the soil that was in the roots to top dress. Do not amend the dug up soil. Unless your willing to dig very deep and amend every single inch of soil that the tree will eventually use. All the way to the max drip line. Even then you will have to be aware of the rain and watering so you don't get the bath tub effect. Well worth it if you live where it's dry and have poor quality soil. If your interested in this please post a new thread here for advice first so we can help you not make mistakes. I really want to help people do this as I'm confident if done right will be a significant boost to the tree. More than any fertilizer or watering program. Much more. It's an extreme amount of work you want to get right the first time. Leave the soil as is no matter how crappy if you don't want to amend it ALL as deep and wide as your plant wants and top dress once it's planted. Much easier and the worms will eventually mix it for you. Always have the roots point out into the new soil. Cut off all circling roots. Water well when establishing but don't go crazy. Create a ring around the tree made of dirt to make sure the water goes down and not out those first few weeks. The ring will disappear on its own. If it's hot and sunny, shade the tree until it's established. Try not to leave fruit on it while transplanting. It's just not worth stressing the tree while it established itself in its new home if it's going into the ground. If it's potted the tree will not be as stressed and can support fruit if big enough. if I think of anything else I'll add it to the list.

Yes, and using mixes specifically for 'potted' plants can be quite tricky to say the least. A balancing act too that is one does not master, your growing experience can be quite limited or very rewarding. For me it's all about sacrifice's, sacrifices made in order to attain the best possible growing experience possible without sacrificing the integrity of the mix and the vitality of my trees and their root systems. One has to be able to foresee any potential issues before deciding what to use. What might do a great job in the 'summer' might be the death of your trees in the 'winter' months. For instance: One could use a mix that hold much more water for the summer while in the end could kill your trees holding too much water come the winter and shorter days. One could use a mix that holds PWT that can be used to your advantage and disadvantage if it rains too much, stays cold for long periods of time, or gets worst as the mix break down. One could use a mix that dried out very rapidly, almost too fast for the summer and in the winter and then in summer loose their trees to not enough moisture. One could also use a mix in which you have to check the moisture levels quite often in each and every pot, for some hundreds, or use a mix that you can water every time you water for all at once without fear of root rot without having to check to see if they need water. The 511 to me is a good balance. You can add just enough smaller particles to keep the soil mix moist longer in summer while reasonably dry out in the winter in a good amount of time. You can use it on all your plants and water all your plants at the same time whether they are still moist or not. The 511 also allows you to store your trees at very cold temps, even though the pots are still moist without fear of rot. The 511 also dries out evenly and holds its structure much longer than peat or fine particle based mixes.. So If I were to match up the 'pros' with the 'cons'. I'd say the 'pros' far outweigh using a 511 mix or the like in my favor. It might be a great idea for each of us to decide what you are willing to sacrifice in the winter or the summer and find a happy medium that will work for ALL seasons to save yourself a lot of headache and certain trees their demise. What is forgiving in the summer time or in a nice warm brightly lit greenhouse structure might not bode so well for trees in less than ideal conditions come shorter colder wintery days indoors. MIke