laag, that is exactly what I meant. I did not mean to replace one's landscape every 5 years. We just need more conversations on the order of, here is a good place for some instant gratification; over here is where you plant your beech tree for your, or someone's, grandchildren; here you want some quick impact but don't use that ornamental grass x because you'll never be able to wrestle it out; and so on. The other thing is, I don't think a knowledgeable gardener has to plant his or her yard JUST so that it will be beautiful for the next buyer or so that buyer doesn't have to do anything to maintain or rejuvenate the landscape. Let the buyer beware! So I see a balance between responsibility vs. freedom. Irresponsible might be knowingly planting something in a way that it will destroy the foundation in 5 years; responsibility AND satisfaction can come from plantint a nice small oak that you may, or may not, get to enjoy as a shade tree, but you know it's the right plant for the right place, so you nurture and cherish it, and someday you or someone else will get the benefit; freedom is planting some large evergreens for a screen that you just need now, that might have to be thinned later by you OR someone else-- In between all this is acquiring more landscape and plant knowledge or advice so you are avoiding totally daft creations--for the evergreen screen, maybe researching it a bit since there are choices that are more or less painful down the road-- but not merely existing to create a legacy.( How do you like your garden? Oh, I hate it, but in 20 years someone will really like it.)This is all still compatible with planting "real" trees and things. In reality, no matter how carefully you plan, it will not necessarily fulfill that dream in 15-20 yrs anyway and certainly without knowledgeable maintenance. Here is a funny thing about mature neighborhoods. In many of them, the trees are way too big for perfect (or even good) aesthetics with the small homes and lots--but the neighborhoods are beautiful in fall with glowing maples, oaks, gingko. If we followed a roadmap for scale, everyone would have had to plant only dogwoods and redbuds and Japanese maples. In some neighborhoods, hardly a home is sited on the lot in a way that a nice shade tree can be placed to provide both proper shade and not dwarf the house. So were those people visionaries, planting trees that in 20-30 yrs would be breathtaking, or irresponsible for not finding the perfect species that would not exceed 20 ft, or whatever? I agree with the shrub myth, too. In my current home, I have some ginormous azaleas that I HAVE crawled under and seen, gosh, there are actually 4 shrubs here and if I could possibly rip out 2, I wouldn't have to prune so much. But I'm not sure it can be done now(well, maybe anything can be done with the right tools and risk-taking). So one of my convoluted points is that even if one person plants the "perfectly spaced for maturity" landscape, or whatever, it will still never be care-free, and a succession of subsequent, generally plant-ignorant and/or plant-disinterested homeowners (I think that's fair; it's not meant to be holier-than-thou) will likely screw it up. As in, beds with lots of space between plantings have to have regular attention to mulching and weeding ("look at these idiots who planted here before us--they just left us these puny shrubs in a weed farm!). So one of the myths is that humans have some kind of amoebic shared mind and will carry on the garden vision of the previous homeowner. All that said, I LIKE being well-warned, in print or otherwise, about the characteristics of a tree or shrub or whatever, and find myself doing a lot more research before trying something (can almost get paralyzing) so that I can make an informed decision about placement, maintenance and so forth.

"...do nurseries have landscape designers to work with or how would I go about finding one?" While you could benefit from working with the right designer, the wrong designer could as easily take you in the wrong direction. Many designers lean toward over-planting and designers that work for nurseries are often in the business of convincing you that the more plants you use, the better. You must be clear on your own overall goals and interests. If you see landscape work that you like you can inquire to find out who designed it. If you're near an urban area where there are landscape architects and designers, you could inquire to see examples of their work. You could also try calling a landscape architectural office that does commercial work and inquire if there is anyone doing residential work on the side. These days, there are also online designers, but to use them you would need to be willing to collect and supply raw data (mainly measurements and photographs.) The picture I made is intended to get you started in a direction, not be the "end all, be all." I'm sure other planting details could be added to spice it up a little... maybe some trellises with vines or climbing roses or something. The trees I painted are modeled after Saucer Magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana) of which there are many cultivars. (I'd lean toward a smaller ultimate size.) But there are other possibilities depending on the "flavor" that strikes you and if they grow well and are available in your area: PG Hydrangea, California Buckeye, Photinia*, Snowball Viburnum (macrocephalum), Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus), Weeping Yaupon Holly (as long as they are female and you have a male nearby) as some examples. Whatever you pick, I'd grow it as a multi-trunk tree form and control the trunk structure from youth to create the desirable spread. *If Photinia fraserii grows well, it's a beautiful blooming tree if the top is unclipped. In some places it is prone to disease, in which case it shouldn't be considered. On the left where the drive appears to be elevated, I'd use a groundcover that is tall enough to come slightly above the level of drive. Variegated Solomon's Seal would be an example. At the porch, I'd use something that was lower. A solid bed of variegated Liriope could look nice.

Interesting landscaping challenge - I would think you'd want to de-emphasize those very noticeable long steps to the right and somehow spotlight the actual main entrance. As I mentioned previously, maybe some low junipers or cotoneaster would sort of obscure the long steps while a pair of urns or something could flank the steps or walkway on the left. Or maybe the short sidewalk there could have a row of short boxwoods on both sides leading the eye more obviously to that side of the porch. I'm not sure what principles would govern the use (or not) of symmetry in this setting. As mentioned, it seems to me that symmetry around the main stairs would help to make them more prominent. Seen from the front, the porch section is also symmetrical and you could reflect that in the planting in that section, although you need a different strategy at each end to connect with the relevant stairway. Of course the mound has no equal over on the other side and needs to be handled as a one-of. So since the overall picture won't be symmetrical, maybe the overall shape of the front bed needn't be either, but (this being amateur to amateur) I've got no clue how it would be best shaped, or whether plantings away from the house would complement the whole. Trial and error will be a lot of fun here, I would think, and I would echo Saypoint's suggestion that cruising the nurseries and finding plants you like that will grow there is a necessary first step.

Hi! I read your post and it sounds somewhat like our situation (though no accusations about affairs or anything--just unsupervised children!) Anyway, since we moved to our home with a 2 year old, and another on the way, I insisted that if we did nothing else to our landscaping, we needed to install a fence! Since our neighborhood was somewhat established, and none of our bordering neighbors had fences, we opted for a split rail fence with a green mesh exterior--which is nearly invisible against the grass and landscaping. This design allowed us to "pen" our child(ren) in, keep the neighbors kids and dogs out, and it was subtle enough so as not to look like a "spite" fence. Once the fence was up, we then planted a mixed row of Rose of Sharon, smallish arborvitaes, along with roses, and barberries (the thorns are also helpful in the fight against would-be entruders!!! LOL!) The other nice thing about this kind of fence is that is CAN be temporary and removed after other plantings fill in, and it is one of the least expensive fencing designs, and both the mesh and individual timbers can easily be replaced if needed. We were able to fence in a relatively large 1/2 acre back yard for about $4000--it may sound a bit expensive, but it was WORTH EVERY PENNY!!! Just something to consider! Good luck!