Hi, I came across your fairly old post while searching similar info for myself on becoming an MG. I am scheduled to begin MG training in Jan 2011. Like you, I also have a four year degree in psychology, but did not complete advanced training in it for a variety of reasons. I am looking into horticultural therapy (an area you might want to google and explore if you are not familiar with this field). I am also interested in historical horticulture, such as working on gardens for historical sites. While I certainly don't expect to a huge immediate career change for myself after earning this credential, I do plan to use this certification as a stepping stone for personal exploration, increased knowledge, and who knows, maybe a career change down the road. Because the MG programs are volunteer-oriented, your biggest benefit will be your increased knowledge of something you love, and networking, both of which could eventually land you a job or perhaps a business of your own in some aspect of horticulture that appeals to you. It's not a huge time commitment, nor a lot of money as compared to graduate school, so if you are looking to do something different, in a field that interests you, just go for it, and build upon it as you can or as you see fit down the road. I would love to hear back if you did decide to complete the program and where you are at with it in your life.

SIGNIFICANT WATER POOLING ACROSS NEW DECK SURFACE We recently had a deck built with TimberTech Azek and it looks great. The product was recommended by our contractor and Big Creek Lumber. It is not cheap, nor was the installation ($40,000+). We had realistic expectations, but now we have problems. PROBLEMS: We have significant water pooling/cupping from a couple rains and some heavy mist. (I've also noticed dried dirt marks left behind when it finally dries, but that's a secondary issue.) CUSTOMER SERVICE: I reached out via phone to a representative from the website. He assured me that some "beading" was natural and over time this would stop. When it didn't stop, I reached out to my contractor because this is not "beading"; this is pooling. I waited a few more weeks and after more pooling from heavy mist and fog, I reached out to my contractor. My conscientious contractor said he has used this material before and has not seen or heard of the issue from any of his clients. He promptly gave me his rep's name and number. The rep said she's had no issues over the past 2 years and she would check—with someone—at the company. She emailed saying that "beading" was normal at first. I sent her deck photos of: Pooling/cupping from rain comparing my neighbor's dry, non-cupping, deck (with another composite-type product). So side by side, at the same time of day, with same weather conditions and sun exposure, my neighbor's deck was dry while mine was significantly pooling with standing water along the entire surface. I also sent a photo of significant pooling/cupping from heavy mist. I have asked the rep for a timeline of when this should stop or resolve itself. I haven't heard back yet and am concerned. A site search brought me to this page with the following: TimberTech's stated superiority over wood decking cupping. Product promotion that helps prevent cupping. Suggestions to dry your deck with a squeegee or mop when there is standing water. Dangers of "standing water," becoming slick (falling danger) and damage to the wood substructure. In summary, the site does not come out and admit pooling/cupping, but it talks about dangers and care of standing water. WHERE TO GO FROM HERE: I'll be calling the rep and asking for a site visit asap, unless anyone else has a suggestion.

HI Ya George! I dont really care all that much for the 4th not for what its there for the caps poping off all over, just makes me a little jumpi so I am hiding out in the office. Rule of Thumb the fasteners should go into the frame at least 1/2 the depth of the decking, of course the L metal cant do that because the decking is not really fastened to the frame there in is the problem. Using any more than 2 fasteners per conection will have no effect one way or the other far as movement goes, but it just might split out the ipe. Take a close look at that L metal, hold it in your hand,while doing that recall the ipe bill you just paid, inspect the thin area the screws are going into, remember the coated cans you see on the freeway ramps that were missed by the clean up guys after several months, then ask your Contractor if you could drift on over to the many ipe jobs he has out 5 years old or so done with that L metal, Keep in mind us ol boys over here make a living doing decks there would be no trashing if they worked we would be selling the S#i$ out of them. Then make your plan as to how to countiune.Side Note>> I would come closer to using pt 2x2s joist sisters installed with ss screws and 490 adhesive leval with the joists and adhesive on the decking at least you would have a fighting chanceCross Ventalation is very important to any decking X 10 with ipe Air in Air out. T&G ipe skirting gives a very good look. When using solid skirting install screen vents in the skiting, they look like soffit vents in your overhang, we put a router detail on them pretty cool look you can see them on my site. Air in Air out. Do Not Seal All Four Sides with any decking ever for a lot of reasons. Ipe is a very tough long lived nice looking material. It will not put up with uneven traped moisture,lack of ventalation,or flimsly conection while laying flat to the sun. J

If the pressure treated substructure is sound (no major issues), then you can leave it, and put new decking on. Ipe is a great choice, except that it will outlive the old substructure. Your joists are probably spaced at 16" oc, which is sufficient for 1x6 Ipe. Check out "headcote" brown SS trim head screws for fasteners. steve