Advantages / Disadvantages of dried grass mulch?
drayven
15 years ago
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Comments (10)
denninmi
15 years agodrayven
15 years agoRelated Discussions
starting from grass/soil amendments
Comments (3)Let me start by saying there are many ways to skin a lawn. I'll let you know what I do and why (remembering that I'm in a very different climate than you are.) Why-I'm impatient and lazy therefore I don't like to dig till or weed much. Also, here in FL nematodes can be a big problem in the native soil so doing raised beds without any native soil kinda sidesteps the problem. Oh, and I also don't own a tiller. What I do-Having just moved into this house I was eager to get a garden started. (owners before me used lots of chemical fertilizer, no mulch or amendments, and the ground is sand.) I plunked down cardboard boxes and filled them with the free compost from our county and planted right in them. This made for a quick raised bed garden for the spring season. Over the too hot to garden summer we preped some new planting areas for the fall garden. The other half who isn't as lazy as I did dig out the grass from a couple of beds and amend with mushroom compost. Myself, I layed out cardboard which got covered/mounded with mushroom compost and then covered with wood chip mulch. This fall we already have been harvesting squash and the cucumbers and zucchini are not far behind (those are planted in the mounded mushroom compost on top of the cardboard.) There is also amaranth, sorghum, pumpkins, and corn growing in similar beds. Tomatoes and peanuts are growing in the dug beds. I personally like the no dig lasagna type gardening but have not had much luck growing things like carrots that way. Carrots did great in the cardboard boxes filled with compost though. Check and see if your county waste management offers compost to residents, if so the cardboard box idea could get you quick greens for the fall while you work on the in ground garden. You can usually get tons of sturdy cardboard boxes from a produce market. For big expances of cardboard, try the dumpsters behind a rental center. I also get mushroom compost really cheap since my neighbor works at the local mushroom farm. I also have any tree services I see working in the area dump their chips in front of my house, they are usually happy to find a place nearbye to dump the chips and I have gotten three loads this way. Things to keep in mind. 1-I've found that mowing right up next to the raised beds is difficult. In the future I will extend the weed blocking paper/cardboard beyond the planting area and make a mulch covered pathway to help keep grass/weeds further from the planting beds. This will also help with the cardboard boxes, to make an extra layer of cardboard under them and extending out and cover with mulch. 2-The cardboard boxes will break down over time and you can pull the sides away and hoe the contents to get rid of weeds after the plants are done. 3-This all depends on the type of grass and weeds you are dealing with. If you have something like bermuda grass, you should probably dig it up and pull it out. I understand it often comes back even stronger if you just try to smother it under mulch and tilling it it might not be the answer. As to your question about adding amendments. First, have you had a soil test done? You might want to hold off on spending money on many amendments until you know if you really need them or not. (having too much of a nutrient can be as bad as not having enough and something like lime should only be used if your soil is acidic and needs it.) Compost would be the exception, go ahead and add that if you like before tilling if you really feel you must till. Good luck and I hope this helps....See More2 New Soil Tests - comparing soil for green grass vs. yellow grass
Comments (17)Spotty higher pH can happen if you got the soil off of one particular section of the pile...that happened to contain the old B horizon with some limestone in it! In my case, I got the old subsoil on my lot, so it just kind of stank all around. * You said you targeted our phosphorus level higher than your own lawn. Is this due to the pH difference or something else? Is phosphorus bound in the soil at higher pH's, and is our pH (7.1 - 7.3) high enough to cause that? pH. If you look at the availability of P by pH, it drops as pH rises above seven. You're not that far over, the binding isn't extreme, so I just boosted the numbers a little bit. Your standard is around 220, most people with slightly acidic pH would be around 200. In your case, I wouldn't blink at anything between 200 and 300. I never use my own soil as a standard, per se, for anybody else's. Mine have given in to some experimental stuff, plus I've over-enhanced the gardens to match the (extreme) density and (extraordinarily high) performance I demand they support. My current P levels in the garden push 1,000. * What kind of quality issues can we expect from the low phosphorus level until it's corrected? Thin, weak, sparse growth that gets sick and dies easily, discolors easily, grows poorly, and generally doesn't look at all good. Installed sod would tend to thin out and die back over the course of a year or so if it isn't corrected, resulting in a lot of thin patches and blank areas. N, P, and K are the big three and absolutely have to be there in the correct proportions (N we take care of on an as-needed basis). * It sounds like the Milorganite is great stuff, but I'm very sensitive to odors, so I don't think it's a good fit for our lawn. If we used ferrous sulfate instead (being careful to sweep it off the concrete), what rate and frequency would you recommend? I assume we don't need to worry about lowering the soil pH too much with the ferrous sulfate since the starting pH is above 7.0. I'd be comfortable with ferrous sulfate (monohydrate or pentahydrate, it doesn't matter) at 3 pounds per thousand square feet in April, early October, and perhaps early November if the weather's holding. Keep an eye on the pH in this case, though, as iron sulfate is about an eighth as acidifying as pure elemental sulfur and does NOT require digging in to work! Never use iron during hotter months or when the soil's going to freeze solid for winter within two or three weeks of use....See MoreBest mulch for my yard (instead of grass)
Comments (35)I don't think fresh cedar or pine chips would typically have this effect unless a very thick layer of very fresh ones were used. I can offer one anecdote: Knew a guy who planted maters in huge pots. After a couple weeks they looked terrible. He removed the fresh pine chip mulch he had used. Within a few days they perked up. He told me he heard of a phenom called 'sour mulch'. We do know pine can be a bit acidic until it degrades some. Possible this was his problem. Having said that, I have not hesitated to use shredded cedar branches, cedar or pine chips, or prepackaged pine shaving livestock bedding as mulch around plants and have never observed a problem....See MoreMulch vs. Rubber Mulch?
Comments (33)Zinc could have various forms in this situation - metallic, or as a salt for example. Or corroded zinc metal (zinc oxide). (There are even organo-zinc compounds but I don't know if these occur in tires). These will all behave differently in the same type of soil. Superimpose differences in soils and it gets even more complicated. Assessing the risk from soil alone (direct exposure by passive ingestion, inhalation of dust, and dermal contact) is usually based on total concentrations (regardless of form), perhaps an oversimplification but at least it gives some results to work from. Gardening (i.e. eating plants) is more complicated. Different plants will uptake the various forms of metals at different rates. Any chemical, once taken up into the plant, may or may not degrade (obviously with zinc this isn't a question) and will also be deposited in different parts of the plant at different concentrations. To do a human health risk assessment, you'd have to take all this into account to estimate a dose from eating even a single type of plant out of a garden. Multiply all that by the hundreds of chemicals typically addressed at polluted sites, times all the vegetables you might grow, and it becomes an enormous task. About the only one we know very much about is Pb since it's been studied to death. You can actually correlate blood lead levels to soil concentrations as well as toxic effects, and as a result it's the only contaminant to have safe levels in soil directly based on known health effects. For everything else, there's a crap ton of modeling in between....See Morecabrita
15 years agoseedmama
15 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
15 years agofarmerdilla
15 years agoglib
15 years agodrayven
15 years agokayhh
15 years ago
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