I have a few reasons, but didn't have time to post in detail earlier. Last year, I built around 25 SWC's in 4 different sizes. One of my 18 gallon SWC's used a smaller wicking chamber than the rest, and was less saturated with better results. One of my 5 gallon SWCs used a larger wicking chamber (32oz instead of 16oz) than the rest, and was much more saturated compared to its' otherwise identical siblings. That tomato plant struggled more than any other all season. In my wicking tests #7 and #10, the large cup wicks both faster and greater overall volume: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg012146179500.html?62 I've read a few accounts of poorly built DIY SWC's that suffered from 'soil bench collapse'. This happens when the soil bench sags into the water reservoir and results in a super saturated mix. In 2 of my early 5 gallon SWCs, I made the mistake of using landscape fabric over the overflow hole. This raised the water level up to the soil bench, the soil chamber mix was like mud, and the translpants died (probably of root shock) before I realized the problem. In my mind, both of the previous scenarios are similar to having huge wicking chambers. I've read many DIY SWC instructions and accounts throughout the internet. I've also looked at several commercial varieties. I don't recall any that use really large wicking chambers. It's a bit of a 'black swan' argument, but it's supported by my previous reasons.

You can use ANYTHING that is absorbent. I use three strips of BURLAP (Jute) rolled into long tubes. You can use a T-Shirt, frayed rope at both ends also works as wicks Pretty much anything that will absorb water-plant food. THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION AND METHODS ARE TO NEVER BE COPYRIGHTED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. Author credit would be appreciated - Pyx. My set up. I start with a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I use a NOTCHED (not slotted) 1 and 1/2 inch PVC 14 inch pipe down running down the inside of the bucket. The maximum height of the notch cut in the pipe is 1 and half inches. Then I add two inches of limestone gravel spread over the inside bottom of the bucket. Then I cover the gravel with a burlap circle I cut. And THROUGH small holes I also cut in the Burlap, I put the Burlap strips rolled into long tubes to be used as water-plant-food wicks. Water mixed with plant food is wicked by the burlap strip-tubes into the soil-less "soil" mix. This is what feeds the roots of the plants. Above the Burlap/gravel, the next 8 1/2 inches I put a mix of 4 parts sphagnum moss to 1 part vermiculite to 1 part perlite soil-less mix. This is my planting "soil". I sprinkle five or six heaping tablespoons of very some finely crushed egg shells for calcium into the soil-less mix. As the very top surface cover on top surface of the "soil" after transplanting seedlings into the "soil" are dark green plastic garbage bags cut or torn to fit very carefully around the plant stems. The garbage bags are used as a "mulch" to prevent water-plant-food evaporation. Here's how it works... The burlap strips rolled into long tubes wicks the water/plant food sitting in the limestone gravel into the "soil". The limestone gravel is used to retain the water mixed with plant food. The gravel acts as sort of a water table. I use ordinary tap water that has stood in a separte bucket for 24 hours in order to de-gas chlorine. Then I mix Miracle Grow plant food in STANDARD RECOMMENDED amounts to one gallon of the water in a separate watering can for application down the down pipe for the plants. That is it. I feed my plants every 10 days or so. Some people may recommend drilling two 1/4 inch holes through the wall of the bucket at the top of the gravel (2 inches) as overflow holes, but I did NOT want to do this. My buckets have NO overflow holes. I water-feed using only what the plants need. I get pretty much NO loss due to evaporation. I suggest you sprinkle the very first feeding immediately following transplantation of seedlings, across the top of the soil-less mix to very slightly dampen it. All subsequent feedings are done through the PVC down pipe. Water to just barely cover the gravel. Let the Burlap wicks to the work for you. The above system and methods works for me. Your Mileage May Vary. Use at your own risk. -- Pyx.

I had the same trouble. I used 3 bolts/washers/nuts through the outer bucket at a height that made my wicking basket just touch the bottom of the outer bucket. I put them in a "Y" pattern in the bucket. Here is a photo of what I'm talking about. It works well for me anyway.

Thanks EG! It doesn't seem like a lot, but I figured why not try a little of the plants I REALLY like :-) As I said, the drip irrigation system worked really well and when I expand the garden next year, I plan on expanding that also. Although not as 'elegant' as the EB AWS or Raybo's, the water timer helps with the overflow since it only allows water to enter for about 15 mins 2 times per day. I thought about the nutrient leaching and so I did exactly what you suggested by placing the drip hose directly into the fill tube. The fertilizing...especially over the long-term, was problematic for me mostly because I really didn't think it through enough. The mix I add to the soil at the beginning of the season got the plants off to a great, sturdy start, but about half way through it, I knew I was in trouble. I'm thinking about burying a small, covered container at the same time I plant the veggies. Then about half way into the season, I'll push aside the large bulk mulch, remove the cover (which will be at ground level), place in a mixture of potting mix and another batch of fertilizer and then see what happens. I'm not sure it will work, but I much prefer adding the fertilizer to the soil rather than top-down watering. And since minerals are heavier than water, I don't think that a completely soluble fertilizer will give the plants all the extra nutrients they need as they head into their fruit production. The 'natural' fertilizer formula included in Ed Smith's book was a CRF so that may be all I need (in addition to the extra lime.) What do you think? Donna H.