You are right to differentiate here widespreadpanic, and I need to correct as follows: You probably deal with two kinds of fungal infections and the one of the clones would fit in the "damping off category" and the one your "bucket plants" have got, have characteristics of what is commonly called fungal wilt. That's the thing with fungi, they can be present in multiple forms and on top of that they can, actually are often carried by- and introduced by bugs. The key and the actual cause of an outbreak always are the favorable conditions. In other words, with cloning it is key to work clean and with growing plants it is about avoiding moisture. I also believe these organic plugs aren't the best thing to use in the future, as they stock too much humidity. Again, I recommend the use of preventive Trichoderma harzianum inoculation for both - unfortunately you can't treat plants with it - well you can, but it will not cure them. I am a fan of so called Heirloom varieties as well and I have tested and grown a lot (mainly hot chilies and quite some tomato varieties as well). But I come to believe that growing those is a good thing and not such a smart thing at the same time. Why? Simply because even though they have their qualities, among them supposed greater resistance against this and that, - it doesn't mean that all of it is general and valid anywhere. What you actually do is taking them away from their origin and expect them to grow to something special. This outcome might be the case or it might not be... Don't forget, most so called Heirloom varieties were often a local specialty and selected over generations for their qualities ON SITE and in a specific macro climate. They weren't actually supposed to be widely spread (commercialized) and adopt to any climate or condition, like they are now. Some people who pretend they would be more adaptable than others, are simply falling for a speculative assumption I guess. Still, nothing wrong with Heirloom tomatoes at all, - but you may have to try a bunch of those, to hopefully find a variety that looooves you and your "garden" back ;-) Hybrids are falsely underestimated, but this is because what people mostly understand by Hybrids, - are commercial crossings of already degenerated varieties. Those are bread to fix a few "genetical mistakes due to over-breading" to vitalize them again... But you can have wonderful Hybrids from Heirlooms or let's say LOCAL ancient varieties with some random others. I've got a Hybrid which is a cross between a tiny semi-domesticated (wild) tomato and Oaxacan Jewel, - and it's indeed very robust, early even in poor conditions and tasting very special ... ;-)

Ya, I agree. That's why I would have liked to see some pictures. But in case the original poster couldn't post them, I wanted to post some links to descriptions and pics so they could see if that seems like what they are experiencing. Also as you mentioned regardless, that doesn't mean there is only one issue they are dealing with or not. But I'm guessing that at the time of the original post when noticing the irregular light blotches, as well as the grayish spots, simply noticing if they were a fuzzy or dusty substance was as you mentioned, just an oversight or missing information. And the light blotches wouldn't necessarily need to be fuzzy or dusty for the downy mildew on the tops of the leaves (where I think they were noticed), so assuming they are on the tops of the leaves, and the fungus is on the bottom of the leaves, it sure seems to fit the situation. Even though the fungus needs to be growing to propagate the spores, the spores will only need air current to travel, and the spores are seeds that will survive winters. Once they make it into a greenhouse, it's not winter for the spores anymore, and will germinate anytime conditions are favorable. The downy mildew even prefers "cool" moist conditions, and can also cause the leaf curl (that's being experienced). But the reason that I don't really focus on the statement about the brown roots is mainly because there are brown roots, and then there are brown roots. Everyone's idea of what's brown is, is different. Basically there are many shades of brown, and the original posters statement was "the roots are getting a brownish tint." To me that suggests that they seem to be going form a solid and/or bright white that they are used to seeing, to a slight off-color (brownish). And as I mentioned, older roots tend get a brown tint anyway. The poster never said how old the plants were that I remember, and I assume they are not exactly young plants. Also some nutrients will naturally give the roots a brownish tint as well, even if so. So without any more information or pictures to go on, I simply don't see the statement of the roots getting a brownish tint as a problem or issue at this point. But that's not to say it isn't the first visible sign of a problem, or even to say that there isn't another issue going on as well.

I still use the Kratky method, along with other methods, I grow my chinese vegetables and lettuce and greens using this method. For tomatoes, peppers etc and other thirsty plants I do not use as it means topping up the nutrients frequently . Another asian plant Kang Kong has a huge root growth and is a water plant ,and abundant roots take up a lot of the nutrient. I prefer to use the Kratky method where I plant the seedlings and allow the roots to grow using the nutrients up and at the same time as the levels go down the strength increases which compensates with the plants growth, in other words young plants need weal solutions larger plants require stronger solutions. All plants can grow using the Kratky method even strawberries , but with strawberries they require frequent nutrient changes plus also the roots do not like being too deep in the nutrients or they will rot. I grow the Kratky method in net pots with Leica (clay balls) or with the tiny net pots for my lettuce I use perlite which is a little messy, but with small seedlings and small roots I use perlite.

Best insecticide for loopers and other cats is your hand. You would not want to put any insectide on any plant you intend to eat the foliage. Some insecticides can be used on plants that you do not eat the foliage but there is a definate time that you should avoid between treating and eating. This time depends on the plant.