This is not an easy question to answer. Nice view of what appears to be the NYS Barge/Erie Canal. Do you want to block that view? The best windbreak plant in your area is arbovitae. You certainly can grow a four season garden on the slope. It is simply a matter of planting low growing evergreens for winter color and developing a perennial garden around them. If you are not familiar with plants then it might be wise to take a Master gardening class or join an area garden club.

Could you describe how the winter wind behaves on your property. Where do the snow drifts pile? Does the blown snow 'drop' and get trapped below the slope? ....or pile up against the porch? Such a high house is going to be difficult to protect from wind. Perhaps we can figure out a way to deflect it a bit. But, the land configuration is working against you.

Yes, you are exactly right that we overlook the Erie Canal. We love the view and often sit on the porch in the summer. The problem is we'd like more privacy from the road (especially to the east.) We really miss the privacy & wind block that our neighbor's tree gave us but it was in bad shape so it did need to go.

Winter wind usually just blows across our yard in the front and the only place snowdrifts really accumulate is inside of the picket fence. Since the neighbor's tree came down, I can no longer put hanging baskets on the front porch during the summer --too much wind, unfortunately.

I appreciate any help you can give me. :)

It is going to take quite a few years to grow anything that will replace the neighbor's tree. If zoning laws allow placing a six foot section of fence along the east side would deflect the wind upward. Should that not be possible, then a grouping of arborvitae would be my next thought with a japanese maple planted on the house side of them if there is enough room.

A few thoughts: I hope the "flowering pear" you planted is not a Bradford Pear. These trees are dreadful choices. Not only are they invasive in surrounding natural areas, but the growth pattern of the limbs is so tight that they self-destruct, especially in high winds, just when they're getting some size on them. Ten-15 years is all you'll get if you're lucky. Replace it now. A good choice might be a Koelreuteria paniculata (Golden Rain Tree), with a broader crown for more shade and protection from wind and with late summer bloom. Another possibility might be a Ginkgo or some type of maple. In any case, it will be years before it provides you much protection.

While you're waiting, you might try a grouping of redbuds some 20 feet at least from where the bigger tree will be. Redbuds are fast growers and will be happy whether they're in full sun or as understory trees. Just make sure you get trees from northern seed so they'll be sure to be hardy for you.

The tree roots from a tree that has been cut down will present no real problems for a new tree or shrub. The roots are no longer sucking moisture from the area, and they will soon begin to rot.

Easy care plants that will do well on your slope include Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' Gro-Low Sumac). This suckering groundcover is about 3 feet tall and spreads about 8 feet. It has great fall color. The mowing you do on the rest of the lawn will keep it easily in check. Other possibilities might be various types of junipers. Talk to a local nursery.

A few thoughts: I hope the "flowering pear" you planted is not a Bradford Pear. These trees are dreadful choices. Not only are they invasive in surrounding natural areas, but the growth pattern of the limbs is so tight that they self-destruct, especially in high winds, just when they're getting some size on them. Ten-15 years is all you'll get if you're lucky. Replace it now. A good choice might be a Koelreuteria paniculata (Golden Rain Tree), with a broader crown for more shade and protection from wind and with late summer bloom. Another possibility might be a Ginkgo or some type of maple. In any case, it will be years before it provides you much protection.

While you're waiting, you might try a grouping of redbuds some 20 feet at least from where the bigger tree will be. Redbuds are fast growers and will be happy whether they're in full sun or as understory trees. Just make sure you get trees from northern seed so they'll be sure to be hardy for you.

The tree roots from a tree that has been cut down will present no real problems for a new tree or shrub. The roots are no longer sucking moisture from the area, and they will soon begin to rot.

Easy care plants that will do well on your slope include Rhus aromatica 'Gro-Low' Gro-Low Sumac). This suckering groundcover is about 3 feet tall and spreads about 8 feet. It has great fall color. The mowing you do on the rest of the lawn will keep it easily in check. Other possibilities might be various types of junipers. Talk to a local nursery.

Thank you both so much for your suggestions! :)

Yes, it was indeed a Brandford Pear tree we planted. We also planted 3 Bradford Pears in the backyard on the border of the property. :( I think removing the tree in the front is an excellent idea. Thanks for mentioning it. I really like the idea of the Golden Rain tree and Redbuds. We don't have a lot of room in the front yard for multiple trees but here are my thoughts based on your suggestions:

Replace the Bradford Pear with a Golden Rain tree and plant a redbud in the front left of the yard (about half way to the sidewalk) or replace the Bradford with a Redbud and wait a few years then plant the Golden Rain tree near where the neighbor's tree was. The second choice wouldn't block our view of the river in anyway. What do you think would look better for curb appeal?

One other question, would you suggest waiting a few years before planting anything in the area where the neighbor's tree was or would filling in the area with compost and topsoil allow us to plant a tree now?

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:10205}}

You can plant immediately where the neighbor's tree was. And consider a grouping of redbuds fairly close together, perhaps three.

May I ask why you say bradford pears are invasive. I never known of one to spread?

Not to get too far off topic...but below is one link with some info on Pyrus calleryana. There is a link there to an interesting article titled "The Coming Plague of Pears" but the link was not working for me. With all the "improved" Pyrus calleryana cultivars on the market, they are able to cross-pollinate and reseed heavily. I know that the couple 'Bradfords' that I have (came with the house) are loaded with little fruits. The also tend to split in half at around 15 years of age.

- Brent

Here is a link that might be useful: Callery/Bradford Pear Info

That is interesting, Brent. On our drive last year to N. Carolina. I noticed lots of Bradfords growing in a wooded area on both sides of the highway through NY and PA.

I'm certainly regretting planting four of them!

You can still remove them and replace them with something better.

When I was a kid, it was almost a given that a house like this would have a shrub border on at least one side of the lawn. Lilacs, snowball bushes, forsythia (if it bloomed there) that kind of thing. If the yards were somewhat bigger, it might be wild trees with undergrowth. While Nandina knows much more about this than I do, I don't at all understand deciduous trees as a windbreak. They do little at ground level, and I'd think the effect would be too diffuse higher up. And if it does block the wind, you have to be aware of a snowfence effect, and make sure the snow doesn't pile up in an unwanted place.

Laceyvail, I know, but unfortunately my hubby is opposed to the idea.

Mad gallica, that is interesting. We do have peonies that border the front lawn on the other side with an apple tree in the middle (they were here when we moved in.) I'm curious, the borders, were they generally only planted with one kind of shrub or were they mixed?

My hubby and I did a lot of talking this weekend about what to do -- plant deciduous or evergreen and whether to plant a tree or shrubs. We think a Golden Rain tree could look really beautiful where the Bradford is but we will lose our privacy from the road and windblock in the winter. When we consider evergreens, I'm really concerned about finding one that will look good from the road as well as from the house and will still tolerate the wind and give us privacy. So...we're still considering our options.

At this point, it's not easy to say how they were originally planted. Just guessing, I'd say the older ones were probably single species. The post WWII examples may be more adventurous. However, a 100 year old lilac hedge may have picked up a few other things over the years.

IÂm usually a lurker and am a plantaholic type so feel free to ignore my comments. I love your view! And the house looks pretty interesting tooÂ.:-) mad gallicaÂs comments on side shrub border are the ones that resonate most with me. To that list of shrubs IÂd add the old-fashioned favorites of Bridalwreath Spirea and Beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis) for a great old-fashioned mixed flowering shrub hedge in combination with the shrubs mad gallacia suggested. Since all the shrubs on that combined list are spring or early summer bloomers, IÂd plant group 3 clematis to climb over them for some later flowers. Then IÂd line the path from the gate and along the fence with a nice wide perennial border heavy on later flowering perennials and interesting annuals. IÂd add a Downy Serviceberry tree or two for spring bloom, berries for the birds (and people if you can get to them before the birds do!) and great fall color. I'm not a big fan of most evergreens but others are so I'm sure there'll be suggestions of what to add for 'winter interest'....

Deciduous trees and shrubs are effective wind screens by slowing down and filtering the wind to reduce its force.

Thanks, Woodyoak. I really love some of your ideas.