As a reader you should try Michael Poulan "Second Nature". Sustainable in one sense will provide the right conditions for nature (the non human sort) and give you, a human being, a headache.

Thank you, a search shows our local library has that book so I'll pick it up tomorrow....another useful perspective?

I'd also like to suggest that you look into "Bringing Nature Home" by Douglas Tallamy which brings the concept of native insect herbivores into consideration.

I don't think that native plants "in general" sucker and seed anymore than non-native plants (those guys have to propagate themselves too). It is just a matter of finding the right ones.

I don't know much about native plants in North Dakota and I can't seem to find a North Dakota Native Plant society, but perhaps you could seek assistance from the ones in the neighboring states (or Canada).

For me, the only suckering plant I've planted is Clethra 'Hummingbird'. I stand by ready to pull some of it out if it gets too bad. So far my elderberries and serviceberries have not suckered at all (to name two).

Thank you,esh_ga, I see that's recently published, will look for it. I recall "juneberry-picking" as a child, and serviceberry is high on the wish list. Amelanchier alnifolia (saskatoon serviceberry) is hardy in zones 2 to 4 and native to the Great Plains but a suckering shrub according to "Trees and Shrubs for Northern Gardens by Dr. Leon C Snyder (Minnesota Landscape Arboretum). Excellent wildlife plant, though, and am now considering x grandiflora cultivars, need to find out more about their moisture requirements.

Symphoricarpos occidentalis (snowberry) is recommended by the Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center and is native to the dry prairie region but "suckers profusely", as does aronia melanocarpa and cornus stolonifera.

Am probably going to have to compromise and look for cultivars of some of the natives, still looking for a smaller viburnum, hawthorne, or flowering crab with persistent fruit.

There's nothing wrong with cultivars of natives. All a cultivar is is a selection of a particularly good native that's propagated to retain those traits--size, fall color, larger blooms, etc. Many native plant nurseries sell cultivars. Viburnum nudum 'Winterthur' is a pretty small viburnum, though you'll need another clone or the straight species to get berries. I don't know if it's hardy to your zone, however.

I agree with lacyvail - a named cultivar of a native plant will still have the hardiness, drought tolerance or other features of the native species but often presents other, more desirable characteristics as well. And suckering/seeding attributes are not necessarily bad, they just need to be understood and accounted for. In many cases, native shrubs do not have a presence that is conducive to stand-alone or specimen planting - they look best if planted in sweeps or groupings and allowed to assume their natural growth habit. This doesn't mean that they can't be included in a cultivated garden, only that their placement should be well considered.

FWIW, many of the your same natives or very similar species are native to the PNW as well and I incorporate them often into designs. Yes, many of my clients are very sensitive to this issue and DO desire to include native plants into their landscapes. In some cases, it is a requirement for those properties abutting wetlands or greenbelts and other natural areas. The amelanchier, aronia, and cornus are all native to this area as well and I have not found using the species of these to create anymore maintenance issues than other, more ornamental selections (which are also approved for this usage). "Suckering profusely" should be more likely termed "can sucker profusely" as it is by no means guaranteed and all things considered, is relatively easy to keep on top of anyway, should you not want to encourage this habit. The PNW native snowberry, Symphoricarpos albus, IS a heavily suckering, thicket-forming shrub but the hybrids offer a much more restrained and manageable gowth habit while still offering very similar attributes.

I would not necessarily limit my choices to just native plants, either. Understanding the requirements of the wildlife you are attempting to encourage or attract will offer various other plant choices that accommodate the same requirements - shelter, nesting sites, cover and food sources can all be provided by non-native plants as well and many that will be hardy for your area AND offer increased ornamental value too.

Here is a link that might be useful: ND - gardening for wildlife conservation

Hi Darwin,

As a fellow ND'an, and also a bird and critter lover, I struggle with the same issues you bring up. I provide a link below to the NDSU extension service publication on trees and shrubs of ND, it is very helpful but does require additional research. There are also a couple of books I have at home with very specific info on ND natives and natives that animals (esp birds) find useful. I will try to find the info tonight. As a general rule, there is much more published information on using natives for Minnesota than there is for North Dakota. I live on the eastern border, so I use the MN books, with the understanding that they are not always appropriate. Nevertheless, much of the info is applicable.

I agree for the most part with using cultivars however be aware that not ALL cultivars retain the qualities that wildlife find useful. Some do not produce fruit, or do so but it isn't what the birds want for some reason. Some no longer have the structure that animals find useful for sheltering. For example, not all crabapples are eaten by birds. So just be sure to research any cultivars you are interested in to be sure it will work.

Offhand, my suggestion for replacing your chokecherry would be either a hawthorn (I don't know the varieties of this) or an Amelanchier (juneberry, shadberry, saskatoon berry). We have several of a variety called "Snow Cloud" that is tree form rather than shrub, doesn't sucker, provides fruit for the birds (and us if we can beat them to it), has pretty white flowers in spring and gorgeous orange leaves in fall. I highly recommend it.

Here is a link that might be useful: NDSU Tree information

Just want to chime in here and support the native cultivars. It can be hard to find natives in the trade (although mail order is a good option), and sometimes cultivars are what you find. I try not to get cultivars that are hybrids with non-natives, but that still leaves plenty of good choices (like Viburnum nudum 'Winterthur' as laceyvail mentioned or Viburnum dentatum 'Blue Muffin'). And buying native cultivars will hopefully encourage nurseries to create and produce them.

One book that is good and provides a list of perennial cultivars when available is Allan Armitage's "Armitage's Native Plants for North American Gardens".

I appreciate all your thoughts and am adding to my notes for further consideration. V. nudum is out of zone but V. dentatum or V. lentago may work. Am cross-checking against the ForestFarm catalog since mail ordering will probably be a necessity.

Just to clarify, I am not a native plant purist but it just seems like a sensible starting point for well-adapted plants. Prairie-love, it's always good to hear from someone else in the "forgotten zones 3 and 4" (quote The Renegade Gardener), I'll check on mature size of the Snow Cloud Amelanchier.

When I finalize my wish list I'll take it to the more appropriate tree, shrub, and viburnum forums for feedback on habits and wildlife appeal.

Not being familiar with SD native plants I did a search for "wildlife plants + ND". After reading through the numerous pages all my plant variety questions were answered. Suggest you do the same. You have interesting choices.

Over the years I have planted in arid lands. My method is to replicate how plants growing naturally in this type of situation sprout and develop. The ideal method is to give the plants a cool root run where moisture is retained. This is easily done by planting perennials and annuals sideways under flat rocks, stepping stones, pieces of concrete...whatever is available. The plants will right themselves and grow upward and mulch is placed over all so the flat rocks are unseen. A few flat rocks placed around shubs give the roots hiding places to grow toward. This method also allows one to plant more tender varieties or non-natives as the roots are protected from freeze and will regrow. This method is not found in books but is one I have developed through observation and experimenting. Try it.