Squash: which ones are bushes, vines, climb trellises?
knoxvillegardener
14 years ago
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angela12345
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Vertical squash to TRY to stop squash vine borers
Comments (27)Update that marigolds and nasturtiums without flowers did not repel the svb,neither did my homemade concoction of tobacco, redpeppers, black pepper, vegetable oil, and dish soap. It rained a few hours after I applied it, today new eggs all over them. I'm giving up organic at least with the svb, trying stuff with methoxychor, or best I've heard yet is this: "A second planting of summer squash made in early July will mature after adult borers have finished laying eggs. " Another nice suggestion: "Mulches are known to harbor squash bugs" http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html "Iowa State University Organics Research Program conducted trials of various control methods for squash bug and squash vine borer. Researchers found that mulching with newspaper and hay, combined with tightly secured row covers on the plots (a level 2 control), provided very effective control of both weeds and squash bugs in pumpkin (C. pepo)Âespecially in the wet season of 2002.(4, 5) The row covers apparently excluded squash bugs, preventing them from entering to lay eggs. Gauze row covers (e.g., ReemayÂ, AgriforceÂ, AgribonÂ, TufbellÂ) [Section 205.206(b)(1),(2),(3)] physically exclude pests and prevent them from reaching the plants in large numbers. Preventive strategies have become more important with recognition of A. tristis as a probable disease vector. Hand picking and trapping of A. tristis, or slitting each vine to remove the larva, in the case of M. satyriniformis, represent attempts to control pests after they have begun rearing another generation in numbers sufficient to cause economic damage and pest buildup. Such labor-intensive controls may be uneconomical for large plantings." "Some products acceptable in organic vegetable production that are effective against squash bugs include diatomaceous earth, sabodilla, and neem oil. Growers that anticipate using materials to control heavy pest infestations must list these materials and the circumstances for their use in their organic systems plan. This plan must be submitted to and approved by the organic certifier before the producer uses any material." What is a sabodilla? I found a tree by that name, is it the same thing? Here is a link that might be useful: svb info...See Moretrellising large squash varieties?
Comments (8)I once had a large squash vine volunteer in the garden. We let it wander to see what it would be. Ten feet from the garden, across the lawn, it found an oak tree and 20 feet up the trunk, it held its own -- no pantyhose slings, no nylon ties -- even with four large squashes that made jars and jars of wonderful food for the babies and us! For general trellising, I have made portable frames of 4'x4' lath to which is stapled coated chicken wire. I attach the frames to 6' metal fence posts and train cucumbers and squash vines up and over. I've also used them for tomatoes anchoring those plants to the chicken wire with garden twisties. Everything is removeable, reuseable and portable to allow for fall clean-up and crop rotation. But because I love garden experiments, I am experimenting with bambo tripods this year over some of the cucurbits. Garden twine is wrapped around the tepees and the vines trained to trail back and forth through the twine. Winter squash vines are so long that they are allowed to go from one trellis to the next! A veritable jungle of vines by the end of summer! Good luck and garden blessings....See MorePerennial Climbing Vines for 2 trellises
Comments (3)I got an Akebia this spring which is supposed to flower at least a little all year, but as is usually the case with vines (and many other plants!) it's spending its energy growing so far. Also have at various times planted climbing roses--some do very well, some need to be sprayed to do well. Need to do some research. I can see why you wouldn't want passifloras as the caterpillars really chew 'em up, but the butterflies sure are nice! Of course there are tender perennial/annual vines like Thunbergia and Ipomoea (morningglory, moonvine, several others). Oh, and Hyacinth Bean--forget its name--someone on another forum was saying how pleased she was with her white flowered one, which even has white pods!...See MoreClimbing Rose for Garage Trellises
Comments (13)Tara, I'm also in zone 5 and I grow a lot of climbers, some of which are on a north wall. Mad is right that you need to pick north wall climbers more carefully than climbers in another site, since the north facing in my experience means that you'll need another zone's worth of protection for the rose to have surviving cane and climb. Some climbers might survive and regrow from the roots each year in zone 5, but not climb above 5' or so in a given year before dying to the ground again each winter. In that case it's a mistake to consider those climbers in our zone. You want roses that are "cane hardy" in our zone, which means they will have surviving cane in most winters. The most cane hardy climbers are those sold as Canadian Explorers like Quadra below. He's ridiculously hardy and blooms pretty much all season, but I wouldn't attach him to a trellis attached to a house - he'd eat the trellis and half of your siding for lunch. I have mine on a free standing arch and he owns the arch and doesn't play well with friends, being pretty thorny. Behind Quadra is a plant of Eden that you'd think would create the lovely photo you've imagined, and in warmer zones it does. However, while mine survives on the North side of the house, it's one of those roses that only blooms on surviving cane and that has only happened 2 of the 8 years I've had this rose. Even in years it blooms for me, I've only had one bloom cycle in a year for maybe 2 weeks. Probably not what you have in mind. I've posted other cream/white climber photos that would work on a north facing wall in a posting by Vicki zone 6 (climbers for a north facing wall) that's currently on page 2 in roses. In our zone, Buff Beauty wouldn't take a north wall and have surviving cane, but either Lunar Mist or Colette probably would. Lunar Mist (below) is yellow and Colette is a medium pink. Mine don't get as lush as in warmer zones, but they reliably have surviving cane. As for clematis, they LOVVVVE our loamy soil and grow exceedingly well for me on any surface in any part of my yard. I haven't had trouble overwintering most of them, even MultiBlue that's supposed to be a little more tender (it's on the north facing wall in front of Quadra). Unfortunately, that one doesn't bloom that often - here's one reblooming among some early mums in September: A good solid purple clematis that you can find just about anywhere is Jackmanii. Here's one of them (or maybe it's a Hagley Hybrid) attacking my fence early in the season before it's really climbing. The trouble in our zone (I think your soil is similar to mine) is that the photo you saw won't look that way - not because the clematis won't thrive, but because it will thrive far better than most of the roses. Here's one solitary Jeanne LaJoie climbing mini being totally swamped by two aggressive clematis (including the lovely pink reblooming but thuggish Princess Diana clem), and it's still early in the rose season and prime rose time relatively speaking. By late summer you literally can't see the rose on this arch, and you can only catch a few rose blooms here and there in this picture even now. Bottom line is that in our zones, you may need to rethink this picture and plan for a clematis with a rose accent, rather than rose with clematis accent. For most of my clematis, that means this would be mostly a June or July statement, with not a lot of bloom the rest of the year. Alternatively you could pick a killer once-blooming rose for early summer bloom (like Alchemist) and then a clematis to fill in the rest of the year, and not worry about them overlapping. In my experience, trying to time them to bloom together hasn't worked out as I planned. You could do Lunar Mist or Aloha or Colette that bloom frequently and a not too aggressive clematis like Multiblue, and have the occasional overlap, but not like the picture you have. It's all good, just may not work out exactly like the picture in your zone. If you want to see a lot of other rose clematis combinations, I posted lots of pictures in a thread a couple of years ago - something like Rose vs. Clematis, the Epic Battle. In nearly every case, the clematis won. Cynthia...See Moreangela12345
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