It has always seems to me that some folks may be operating under the misconception that the potato leaves are not involved in photosynthesis. And that, photosynthesis isn't what is essential for processing carbon dioxide into the starches found in potato tubers.

Roots are important for drawing up some nutrients and water and having adequate room for the development of those tubers is necessary. We don't want those tubers to be exposed to sunlight. Still, it is the "factory" within plant leaves, for the most part, that grows our food.

digitSteve

Wile I wouldn't agree that it is the best way to grow potatoes, it does work. You will have to drill lots of holes in the trash can though.

1. Do I understand that you cover the potato in a layer of soil and wait for the foliage to grow up, then you cover the foliage in more soil? You continue this all summer??

Yes. Leaving the very tops of the plants uncovered. I mix chopped straw with the soil to make it lighter and less likely to compact when wet. Once the hill is 10-12" deep you can use plain straw for the rest of the covering.

2. Anyone recommend a reliable source for organic seed potatoes? I would also like to hear comments about varieties.

Technically all seed potatoes are organic and approved for gardening organically. Ronniger's potatoes is one of my favorite sources but since you will only have room in the can for a few seed potatoes there isn't any point to buying lots of them - they are usually sold by pound.

Instead just buy a few potatoes from any local source and cut and pre-sprout them as you would any seed potato.

There are lots of discussions here on how to grow potatoes as well as where to buy them if you want to read through them. Just use the search box at the bottom of the page to search this forum using 'potatoes'.

Dave

The best explanation of the conventional method of growing potatoes by "hilling" I have seen is this:

"Hilling is crucial to creating a place for potatoes to develop a large size and abundantly. Sprouts will emerge in about two weeks, depending on the soil temperature. When the stems are about 8 inches high, gently hill the vines up with soil scraped from both sides of the row with a hoe. Doing this simultaneously weeds the row. Leave about half of the vine exposed. Hilling puts the root system deeper where the soil is cooler while the just scraped-up soil creates a light fluffy medium for the tubers to develop into. All tubers will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. Another hilling will be needed in another 2-3 weeks and yet another as well, 2 weeks after the second. On subsequent hilling, add only an inch or two of soil to the hill, but make sure there is enough soil atop the forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed to light (or they'll turn green). But if you hill up too much soil, you'll cover too many leaves and reduce your final yield. "

It is from the site linked below, which also has alternative methods.

Jim

Here is a link that might be useful: Irish Eyes Seed Potatoes

Here is a website from Gardenweb's own sinfonian regarding growing potatoes in a "build as they grow" potato bin. One thing that you will have to pay attention to, as he mentions in his blog, is what type of potatoes you plan to grow. Some will only produce spuds in the bottom 6" to 8" of your container and others will continue to produce all along their roots if you keep them hilled (or covered) up to the upper leaves. I grew Yukon Gold and Red Pontiac in 5 gallon containers last year knowing they would only produce in less than a foot of the bottom. I planted late season potatoes in the bin like sinfonian's. Will do the same thing this year. Check out whether your seed potatoes are early or late and for a garbage you'll want late potatoes.

http://ft2garden.powweb.com/sinfonian/?page_id=12