All the plants you listed are perennials. Propagation techniques do vary by plant, and a hormonal aid may be helpful with some. You'll need to research. Use the word propagate, followed by the name of the plant. If you look up the Latin binomial and use that, you'll get generally more reliable information.

Rooting in soil will yield a stronger plant, faster, if you have the knowledge/skill to get the plants to root.

Al

Yikes, linnea, I remember your other post, I would have thought you'd experience success with the sweet potato vine and coleus. Out of say 30 cuttings of coleus I'd done in the past 2 years with the water method, I've only had one rot, the rest developed roots so that within 10 days of first putting it in water I could place in soil. I don't even change the water, unless it's gone past the 10 days. I've only done the 'blackie' spv, and that one produced root buds in 2 days (so I plunked in soil right away). And tapla is correct about the soil method allowing the plant to make stronger roots right off the bat, but I've tried both and have better success with the water.

I don't know what kind of temps you have there, I assume warmer than what I have here, but the time of year, and the temperature of the area where you've got the cuttings does matter. We've had several light frosts, and if I decided today I wanted to try to save a plant with a cutting, I wouldn't place too much hope in getting it to root, since the nights have been quite cool for 3 weeks now. I usually start taking my cuttings mid august, when the plant is still growing robustly, and the nights are still warmer. I place the cutting in a bright spot, not direct sunlight, on my windowsill, but later in the year, I would move it to a table near the window, since the temperature is lower right up next to the glass at night.

This year my successful rootings in water are: coleus, plectranthus (nico and the variegated), lotus vine (parrot's beak), emerald fall dichondra, duckfoot ivy, and at the last minute I clipped my large leaf wirevine (muelenbeckia or something like that), but it's taking it's time (I'd done the small leaf a few years ago, it had no problem setting roots, but maybe the big leaf resents it?)

Keep notes, try different methods, you should be able to find what works for you. Good luck.

Yes, I canÂt figure out what the problem, is but itÂs pretty pathetic. :(

I used to root things all the time, to make more houseplants, begonias, geraniums, whatever. I wonder if itÂs the water. Maybe the village is putting in more chlorine. For my next try I may do filtered water.

Time of year may be a problem, too. During prime gardening season IÂm too busy gardening to think about cuttings, then when I anticipate my beautiful garden dying, thatÂs when I think of it. We donÂt have frost here for quite a while but the tree leaves are starting to turn.

Last year I successfully took cuttings of:
salvias
torenia
plectranthus
scaevola
Diamond Frost (Dust?) Euphorbia

Kioni is right. It's best to take them before the temperatures begin to fall. I need to get on it soon.

I take tip cuttings and stick them into potting soil (no moisture granules). Water well. Drain even better, and then cover them with clear plastic rubbermaid storage box lids. Except the salvias, which I just put into the shade and water everyday. They root extremely fast. I start virtually all cuttings this way. Sometimes I use hormones. Sometimes I don't. I have had alot of cuttings that were placed in water that rotted once potted up. Don't know why.

It's important to make sure your containers, soil, and lids are all clean and rinsed in bleach water.

It's funny...I cut some sweet potato vine 2 weeks ago to use as an accent in a vase with a dahlia arrangement. Dahlias last a long time, but finally I was ready to throw them out. Lo and behold, the SP vine was well rooted.

Maybe it's better if they don't KNOW I'm trying to root them.

I cut a bunch today, both Blackie and the chartreuse one. Some I put in a clear glass vase to root, and 3 I put in a vase with some more dahlias. WeÂll see which one roots; maybe IÂm onto something :)

I generally don't bother with rooting hormones unless the plant is woody. These sorts (i.e. geraniums) also do better if you let the cutting dry out for a few hours before putting it in the rooting mix.

One helpful tool for rooting cuttings is the high-top plastic dome, which costs around $6 or so and fits over a standard plastic flat. The advantage over plastic bags used to cover pots is the wet interior surface from condensation doesn't contact the leaves (which encourages rotting), you can remove the lid easily to spray for bugs which sometimes come in on cuttings, and you can manipulate the humidity more easily to accustom young plants to indoor conditions once rooted (some domes have adjustable vents for this purpose).

Use a lightweight soilless mix for cuttings and make sure it's fully drained (not dripping) before placing cuttings in it.

There are some annuals that just don't root very easily from cuttings. Most coleus do fine - a few varieties lack vigor indoors. I had a heck of a time last year rooting a variegated Salvia splendens, but this year it's done fine so far. Go figure.

A couple of additional suggestions: take cuttings from semiripened wood/stems, not the newest, most limber growth. Sometimes the juvenile shoots don't root as well.
This winter I was growing a new Alternanthera from seed, and took tip cuttings as soon as the plants were about 5-6 inches high. None of them rooted. This fall, tip cuttings from mature stems have rooted promptly and vigorously.

It may also help to wound the lower stems (which will contact soil) when sticking cuttings. This can include shaving superficial bits off part of the stem, or cutting very shallow notches into the stem.

Impatiens!