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My amaryllis never seems to yellow in the fall.

Richard Dollard

18 years ago

Good morning,

It's that time of the year to bring the amaryllis' in and put them in cold storage for awhile. Last year my leaves never yellowed so I just cut them off and put the bulb in the fridge for 6-8 weeks and that did the trick. Am I doing something wrong? Should I stop watering it now? Thanks,Richie

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Comments (4)

ego45
18 years ago
Yes, you should stop watering and bring them somewhere where they'll not see a daylight.
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amaryll
18 years ago
You can go either route. I suggest leaving it alone without dormancy. And either way you should not remove green leaves. The difference is that without dormancy the bulb will bloom when it feels like it, and that the bulb will grow faster and bloom more often without a dormancy period, in my experience. If you don't care when it blooms, just continue your current routine.
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9
18 years ago
amaryll your postings would be more enlightening if we knew what zone you were gardening in. I checked your member page also with no clue as to your gardens location. Al
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haweha
18 years ago
The final elongation of preformed buds happens in the quickest manner at 13Â°CELSIUS and needs 8-10 weeks. That's all.
Temperatures which are lower than 20Â°CELSIUS are also efficient, but might need a little bit more time.
Principally NO fridge, NO leaf cutting, NO dryness of substrate and NO DARK storage is needed.

The proof is obvious from these numerous hippeastrums, which are carefully husbanded at their windowsills and give rich blossom yields while being in full leaf of the previous season.

If - on the other hand - a lot of plants from outdoors have to be transferred into a storage room (which IS actually dark) then the leaves must be cut because in the dark they are of no use and would respire only the storage products of the bulb. And the substrate must be dry then because if not there would emerge new unnecessary leaves in the storage room.

These particularly to be pitied bulbs with bare roots must be stored as cold as possible in order to prevent the fatal drying out of the bulbs and complete fading of root live,
using 13 Â°CELSIUS or 11 to 17Â°CELSIUS, respectively, for the elongation of buds and
5Â°C (in the fridge) only AFTER this period in order to STOP the emerging buds - this is an important difference.
I guess that if a fridge is routinely used with good success then the bulbs objected to this treatment had already undergone a sufficient period at the temperature interval obligate for bud elongation in the autumn.

But to bring it on the point I must now honestly annotate that I have yet detailed all these contexts of reasons-and-effects in the still actaual thread "What to do with this amaryllis"...

Hans-Werner
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