If you want a display similar to this year's you probably need to get some fresh bulbs. Not because there's anything wrong with the 'old' ones. It's just that they tend to produce daughter bulbs and those won't be big enough to flower and give the mass of red you might be hoping for. You might want to consider leaving the bulbs in the ground - unless you know they'll face gourmand rodents . They seem to bulk up better when undisturbed.

my good friend mike.. lives in the wettest place in the world ... lol ... the PNW.. pacific northwest ... now this is what happens just about everywhere else ... to rot.. wood requires water.. lots of water ... so if you plant real close to a large root system ... you can create a real dry area ... which MIGHT be a problem with a transplant ... so just INSURE.. the transplant stays properly moist for a year or two ... next... to rot.. wood steal available nitrogen from the soil ... so.. if in a year or two ... the plant.. being properly watered and all .. starts to yellow a bit .. you will need to fert it.. JUST A LITTLE ... but they are not children..and dont need to be fed.. so the fert.. is ONLY ... a remedy.. should you OBSERVE a problem ... so.. putting.. two and two together.. if you want the stump to rot faster.. after cutting flush to the ground.. hubby could drill some one inch holes in it.. and you could put some fert in those holes.. and then keep it all moist ... and it will speed the rotting along.. somewhat ... regardless.. its going to be there a long time... depending on moisture.. but you are going to hide it with the other.. so i dont know if i would waste the effort on all this ... finally ... you will have. a spectacular mushroom show over the years ... and i suggest you enjoy that for what its worth.. its knowledge.. that there is enough moisture.. for mother natures breaker-downers.. the fungus.. to be attacking..the wood ... you can even trace where large roots were .. by the line of mushrooms ... just enjoy that part.. when they use up the energy stored in the wood.. they will go away on their own ... BTW .. has the stump been treated to die???? .. after the final cut.. you should apply 100% round up.. or stump killer to the EDGE of the stump... the green layer.. just under the bark .... good luck ken ps: and come back.. if you have suckers popping up.. we know how to take care of those also ...

Usually potted tulip bulbs are tossed because they have used up most of their energy. But of course I understand your need to do this. If these were mine I would cut off the flowers as soon as they are done and leave them in the pot. Give them a weak (1/4 strength) fertilizer with every watering while the foliage is still green. Once the foliage has turned completely brown unpot them, and if there are any little bulbs forming on the sides of the larger ones, separate them. Then plant them deeper than you normally would, about 9 inches or so. This will allow them to be more perennial and divide less frequently than they otherwise would. One of the difficulties with tulips are voles or other varmints digging them up or eating them. Planting deep will help. Some people soak expensive bulbs in full strength repellant before planting. Some use small cages, like cheap suet holders. Some plant with pea gravel to make it hard to dig. I just plant them deep and have had good luck with that. I hope it works for you. Steve

Willows are a classic example of the tendency in nature of fast-growing plants to not put much of their energy into disease/pest resistance, at least among broadleaved plants. It would not make a lot of sense to try to track down the pathogens and decay organisms affecting those willows: there would be no cure anyway and it's really just how they are. Are you intending to replant willows again? That would be the one caveat-I wouldn't do that-bit any other plant, sure, go ahead. Just move to the side of the stumps. Because there's likely to be quite a bit of wood in the soil, not yet fully decomposed, there could be a bit of nitrogen drag on your landscape in that area. But this is easily overcome with judicious use of nitrogen fertilizer, if needed. +oM