Hi. First of all, are you sure it's a 'maple' (Acer), and not a similar house plant also called 'maple' but that really isn't one (actually an Abutilon) and does get flowers? If the flowers on yours are very tiny, it could be a 'real' one and not the other, but in any case, a real one WILL NOT survive indoors whether or not you want it to. It needs many things nature gives it that you cannot duplicate inside, so you have to decide how you're going to proceed - ignore nature and have a temporary 'house plant', accept nature and give it a proper outside home, or give it to someone else who will do so. As far as repotting goes, until you've learned how to prune roots, etc., why not just get a larger pot (similar shape) and just lift your tree out of its present pot in one piece (doesn't sound like you'll have much trouble), put it straight into the new one, and add new (gritty, fast draining) soil all the way around. Then find a local bonsai club, or read up on root pruning and all the other things you need to know about taking care of bonsai (try www.bonsai4me.com) and when you feel confident, and it's the right time of year (all-important), go ahead and do the job properly. If you turn the pot over, you'll either see wires or you won't - if there are some, use wire clippers to cut them, if not, then it's not a problem - but you might have to break the pot to get the tree out - it's obviously very rootbound. I can't believe there aren't many knowledgable people in Korea who couldn't help you even long distance, with bonsai. But come back here if you run into trouble and we'll try to help.

Repotting seems to be something many people fear. If the mix you have your tree in is too rich (think dirt) then the drainage will complicate things further than an out of season repot would. Thats not to say that repotting SHOULD be done at any time, but it can be used as an emergency fix. The sooner its in better soil (with good aftercare including proper watering technique) the better the chance of survival. WF

Iskhan, Here is another thing you might consider: Trim top and bottom at the same time. I suggest cut off about 1/3 of leaves and 1/3 of roots every year, maybe every other year. I generally cut the edges, too, but sometimes a big one has to go. I aslo use a chopstick to repot -- stab it into the new soil and wiggle it. Keep adding more soil until no more will go in. Afterwards, keep in part sun/part shade for a week or two. LAter, lots of sun. (You probably know that.) Don't fertilize for a while. And don't over-water. One thing about citrus is that they will sprout buds from anywhere on the branch, which means you may have lots of options to shape it. They also tend to get ugly 'knuckles' if there are too many branches from one spot. There's lots to learn. To join a local club is good advice. I have a warm spot for anyone who tries citrus. Mine are butt-ugly bonsai, but thirty years ago I started them from seeds -- my first survivors. I never had any luck with kumquats or Tahiti oranges (Otahiti?? I forget), which have small fruit As for mango: Do they have those delicate 'double' leaves? I'll bet that when you get it going, it'll be wonderful.

If you look closely at the photo I've attached you'll see the new bud growth (4) at the bases of two of the three remaining branches. Because of a lack of proper sun light I've acquired a grow lamp that could be contributing to this new bud growth but I alse have to thank moochinka for the advise to cut back on some of the branches.These are the three remaining branches. They seem to be getting longer and longer, but on a positive note though there is the (4) new bud growth. Is there a safe way to control the growth length of these three remaining branches without damaging the tree? It just seems so stringly and spindly at this stage! Is there any way I can promote more new budding at the bases of the limbs? The orphan and its companions are thriving thanks to the knowledge I've acquired on the forum. Thanks bonsaiprice