Well, if you have a 'money tree', it's really a Dracaena, and not a bonsai, so that's another story (maybe the house plant forum would be the place to go for help). If it's another kind of tree, it's really important to know what it is before giving advice, but you haven't said what the lighting is like in the new office, so again it's hard to comment. If you have no leaves on it, and mold, it's probably been watered too often and has soggy soil, and that is probably full of water-hogging peat, rather than fast draining grit. You need to try a house plant fungicide for the mold, lay off the water, let us know about the light (or improve it), and learn to repot - it's not rocket science, but a) the pot needs a good sized drain hole covering with plastic mesh (from a craft store, used for needlework), and no gravel in the bottom, though lots of perlite in the soil and some small size aquarium gravel will help drainage. Don't leave it sit in its own water though, drain it in a sink first.

When you say "concrete raised bed container", I'm trying to figure out exactly what you are planting in. When I think "raised bed", I think of a bordered, raised area placed directly on the ground. In that case, you would basically be ground-growing. When I think "container", I envision that there is a bottom, and no direct contact with native soil (except perhaps via a drainage hole). Managing your trees will vary somewhat on whether or not you truly have container or a raised bed. Also, the dimensions of the root growing space will also dictate how you manage it. Many of us have probably seen very large trees growing in very large containers. With these large containers, of course no root pruning is carried out. Large mechanized equipment is required to move them. Their growing conditions are fairly close to actual ground-growing. As the size of the container gets smaller, the need to manage (prune) roots, and change soil becomes more important. Having said all that, I am currently growing a plum tree in a container that I intend to keep at about 8' to 10' (it is 8' now). It is in a round metal container (like a half of a 55 gal. drum). I am using bonsai techniques to improve the appearance of the tree. I am currently training a small side-branch to eventually become an upper portion of the main trunk. I have kept all foliage above that branch as "sacrifices" to help thicken the trunk below. When the time comes, I will be "chopping" all of the trunk above my chosen branch, then this branch will be come the new trunk above this chop. By doing this, I will be adding some "trunk taper" and some "movement" to improve the overall appearance of the tree. Over time, I will select another branch higher up, and repeat the process for some more taper and movement. It will take years. Every few years I will root prune the tree, and change the soil. This will not be easy. I did just that with an 8' Liquidambar that I am growing in an identical container. Last winter, I carefully placed the container on its side, and "rolled" the root ball out of container, being very careful not to damage any important branches. Once out of the pot, I root pruned, and replaced the tree into the container with some new soil. This is not an easy job with a tree this large. It might even be more difficult to remove the root ball from a concrete container like you propose. I look at it as a challenge, though. If your container is too small to allow unrestricted root growth (like true ground growing), then root pruning will be required to keep the tree healthy and vigorous. If the containers are too heavy or unwieldy to allow the root ball to be removed, then you will need to adopt an alternate strategy for root pruning. This strategy could consist of periodic cutting and removal of the roots and soil from the perimeter of the container, and replacing it with new soil. You could also consider taking pie-shaped pieces from the root ball, allowing you to prune closer to the trunk. You would take these pie-shaped pieces in a rotating manner so that every few years there is a complete removal and turnover of a large portion of the roots and soil from around the trunk. In this scenerio, you will be unable to prune the bottom of the root ball. The downside to this method is that you will be unable to identify and correct circling roots, and the like. Large trees can successfully be maintained in small containers, but you have to work at it. Only you can decide if you are willing to go through all the effort. There's some good advice over at the CONTAINER GARDENING forum that will help you immensely. I suggest browsing over there for a while. Good luck!

You certainly CAN propagated the rose. It's done all the time...but, usually roses are grafted onto a different under-stock that is either more vigorous, hardy, or better adapted to specific growing conditions. Any good book, or even web-sites about growing roses will give you all the information that you need. The heirloom Pine is a different story. Seeds from the pine cones will give you small plants. I hope you are very young...you'll have a long wait. Good luck Frank

Mid-1980s, I was at a business meeting in a Chicago hotel on a Thu evening & was bored. Walking around the hotel, I came upon a bonsai show being set up. I asked if I could watch because I found the trees intriguing. I quickly passed from 'interested' to "I HAVE to know how to do that". I went home to become a master and failed miserably for the same reason 99% of those attracted to bonsai soon leave it behind - I had no idea what I was doing and didn't have mastery of the basic skills required to keep trees alive. I put the trees away and studied hard (this is before the internet was in every home), mostly soil science & physiology, for around 4 years before picking it back up again. At that point I discovered I'd learned enough to get over the hump that stops most others - I could keep my trees healthy. From there forward, it's basically been a decades long learning experience. I try hard not to be a proud person, but I do consider my progress a blessing - partly because it's so personally gratifying, but also because what I've learned about plants has allowed me to share some of what I know with others. This sharing of information re a number of topics has become a natural extension of my own personal growing experience. For that, I'm grateful because it feels good to feel like you're making a difference. Al