I lookup the stratification requirements when I am making up my plant tags. Then I write on the tag "ws" for wintersow and "ss" for spring sow. If it is something that may need multiple warm cold warm cycles I also write on it "slow" and the date sown. That way if it isn't sprouted by summer I know to keep watering it and move it to a shady spot over the summer so it won't completely dry out before next winter. I file my seed packets I plan to sow and prepared labels in a tub with sections for sowing early winter, late winter/spring, and tender-only sow after frost. This is just to make sure I get the things that NEED cold out first. Then I can take my time doing the things that might need a bit of cold or fluctuating temps or at last can handle cold. The tender things can wait, some of them get done in my "wintersowing containers" and some get direct sown. That decision depends on how many of the seed I have, where it is going, how quickly it germinates, and of course how much potting mix I have left! I always end up underestimating how much I am going to do each year. So, there are still reasons why some of us research the seed's needs, but it is definitely not required for a successful experience. If you like researching that info - do it, if not skip it altogether or maybe just do it for those very special seeds. You will also learn what works best for you over the years and tweak the routine to suit your needs.

None of the ones listed are here yet but I'm prepping for them! But they all ship pretty promptly. So I'll sow the onions and arugula, everything from ST except amaranthus, and the monkshod the minute I get my dirty hands on it! Even the lupin (an annual kind) I'll WS that, too. Direct sowed some last year all flopped and died, it's an annual kind, and just curious about it. Petunias (blue wave) I sowed just one pkt prob too early. The cosmos, all other petunias, amaranthus (both kinds) will wait until the end of March or early May. Even though I've read the faq more than once and multiple posts, can't remember every detail how people were successful with what so just started sowing madly. Will know better next next time. The delphiniums I will winter sow two kinds this year I have from ST, but that special one, one seed per cup and might wait timing wise like I did successfully for my delphs last spring. Will sow all the pansies and violas ASAP except maybe hold 2 pkts back for next year, bought a lot of what I hope are blue because if all the different kinds I sowed grow and reseed, they will cross like you said. I want to keep the blue ones true if they turn out that way for me, don't want them to cross. Have already sowed lots of violas and have some Challon? pansies I don't particularly like (bonus), will sow when I get to it. The runner beans my inclination are to direct sow when frost past as I successfully grew some Scarlet ones years ago, didn't fuss too much about water even, just about every seed germinated, and they go pretty deep IIRC. But I thought my grandson might have fun sowing them in some of my cups (later then) and then planting somewhere himself and watch them grow. Saved your instructions, so appreciate the advice, wish I'd asked about some of the others sooner. Now one more teeny weeny question. Just mixed up a big batch of soil and have to burn some more drainage holes which seem to be much better than slits like I have done in the past in the BOTTOM. BUT should I put about 4 slits in the top of those lids to snap on the cups or burn a couple holes instead? I have been burning holes in the tops of most, and they're a good 1/4" diam and may let things get too drenched. You have your cups uncovered in the hoophouse; I have to cover mine, they're white and about the translucency of a milk jug only thinner. Well one more question. Do you plant your love lies bleeding in the soil or container? The seed photo showed a container high enough so they could hang. The other amaranthus looks quite different. A watched container never grows. Maybe that's why . . .I can't help the temptation to peek when it starts warming up, haven't looked at one thing out there yet. Thanks much; obviously you and some others have lots of experience.

I have 32 Daisy trees. The leaves are especially curled naturally. The nursery where I got them (Dolan Young's, wholesale only, grows 300,000 + trees a year) says they frequently get this question about Daisy. It's normal for this variety. By the way, the variety was named after his wife, Daisy, who chose this variety as the best tasting from among all the test varieties at the Indio Ag. Experimental station many years ago. Apparently the folks who ran the station had a note in their journal that a woman named Daisy had liked the variety and they named it after her. Dolan always grows a few rows of them. When people call to place orders, often times Daisy will answer the phone and she will say "Oh! You want me!?!" With a big smile on her face. I love Daisy variety. I was given a personal tour of Youngs nursery by Dolan himself. He took me through the varieties of trees he keeps for bud wood, telling me stories about the varieties, what growers have them, where they do best, how many he has produced and sold, how the market is. He spent close to 3 hours taking me around, it was an amazing tour. In the end I choose this one as the best tasting too. What we don't eat we sell to the local health food/organic stores for their juice bars, and their customers just love them. I hope you will to. One more note. Daisy is very early, we start picking by Thanksgiving, most areas can pick them before Christmas. If you like the flavor, Kinnow is similar and later, holding on the tree as late as Easter.

* Silver Princes Shasta Daisy (I grew these plants from seed three years ago) * Crazy Daisy Shasta Daisy (NEW! Growing from seed this year. The flowers look like Marguerites! Very frilly.) * Gloriosa Daisy (growing them from seed) - Love these big Sunset yellow and orange flowers. Reminds of a desert sunset on the mesa. I have some Clara Curtis seeds I got in a trade. Never have tried to grow them yet. Guess I'll give them a try. Thanks for reminding me, Glenda! They sure are pretty. I have English Daisy seeds to sow in April. I direct seed them into the garden every year. So pretty. Not sure that you would call these daisies, but I bought a one little pot of Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam' & one of Coreopsis hybrida 'Sweet Dreams' Coreopsis last year. I planted the Moonbeam in the potager. There a dozens of tiny seedlings coming up around where the mother plant was. They are growing to the front of a bed of Double Pink Knock Out Rose and Double Yellow Knock Out Roses. Moonbeam's soft, buttery yellow color will look pretty in with those roses. Self-seeded Chamomile is coming up and California poppies that I planted on the 15th are up. Tall Mauve Bread seed are everywhere in that area of the garden. I never know where they will move to each year. Pink & white Tasha Tudor HH's transplanted behind against the fence and Black and Blue Salvias I moved back there last fall. I transplanted a Don Juan (cl) rose back there to grow on the fence. Larkspurs and Heleniums are coming up on the other end and white Baby's Breath. Bright Periwinkles and white and purple Sweet Allysum will probably coming back from seeds, and who knows what else. I love bold splashes of color throughout my garden. I don't know if the Sweet Dreams reseeds or not since it is a hybrid, but the plant kicked it - darn it. Sweet Dreams Coreopsis is pink with purple to red centers. Very unusual colors for a Coreopsis. ~Annie