I don't bother waiting until fall -- why let them sit there. I put my forced bulbs in the ground as soon as I know the danger of a severe freeze (below 28 degrees) is over. They can take a freeze/frost, and the outdoor conditions are much more conducive to regenerating a large, quality bulb for the next year than indoor conditions. That being said, tulips, out of almost any forced bulb crop, are about the least likely to be successful in future years, due to their general nature. Depends upon the exact type and variety, of course, but most types commonly used for forcing, such as the single early tulips, are not reliable re-bloomers anyway as a rule, add in the stress of forcing, and, well, don't be too surprised if you mostly just get leaves next year.

Do you have any links to the look you're going for? I don't like when some of the blooms and foliage are over and some are yet to come, I prefer when it's all open at the same time... I guess what I'm saying is it's hard to put together a pot that puts on a big nice show and sometimes the pictures you see in catalogs and packaging are staged or photoshopped. I usually pack in all one kind and keep it simple. I've seen pots with annual rye seeded on top or clover and the lush foliage sets off the blooms too and always looks good.

LizaLily, This came in my email box today, from Donna in the Garden, writing The Garden Dirt. "If you're buying tulips, daffodils or hyacinths for outdoor planting, buy extra for indoor forcing. Besides the bulbs, you'll need: potting soil (lighter mixes are preferable); plastic, terra cotta or ceramic pots (at least twice as deep as the bulbs) with drainage holes; a dark, cool location. Step by step: always start with clean pots; fill the pots with an inch or two of potting soil; place the bulbs on the soil and backfill around the bulbs. Water thoroughly. Place the pots in a cool location - ideally in a refrigerator where the temperatures are between 38 to 48 degrees F. Remember you are trying to simulate the same conditions they would experience if grown in the garden during the winter months; they need the constant cold and darkness for 10 to 12 weeks. After the requisite 'chill', introduce the potted bulbs to warmer temperatures (60 degrees F and gradual light. After 4 to 5 days; place the pots in brighter light and slightly warmer temperatures. The leaves and flower buds will continue to expand; you'll be enjoying colorful blooms in 3-4 weeks (give or take). The flowers of forced bulbs will last longer if kept on the 'cool' side - 65 to 70 degrees F. Excessive heat will reduce the longevity of the blooms significantly." Does this help any more? The URL will take you to the blog, where you can subscribe if you like. I receive a daily entry 5 or 6 times a week. Here is a link that might be useful: Daily Dirt

You can chill them unpotted. Takes up less space and can be done in the fridge. Plant them after the chill time is finished. Personally I only force a few hyacinths and buy the bulbs pre chilled so I can get them in flower for Christmas.