The pseudobulbs "of a certain age" (don't call them old) are still important members of the family. Take the whole plant out of the pot and give it a spa treatment, a nice room temperature bath with a LITTLE mild dish soap. Remove all the brown leaves and any squishy roots. Do this cleanup before doing any dividing. Look the plant over and be sure you know what is connected to what. If you cut without knowing this you could end up with a single unattached bulb. I speak from experience. Count from the newest growth and see if you can find groups of at least three and less than six pseudobulbs. Only after you have identified all the groupings do you do any cutting. Repot so that there is room for two years growth, with old growth at the edge of the pot and the new growth near the middle. Use the smallest pot that allows this. Use the same medium as the plant was in before since it seems to like that. There you go. Two (or more) plants. Keep the nicest one as your collection plant and trade the others. Good luck.

Here is something that may help regarding forcing bulbs in the fridge... It is from here: http://www.broersenbulbs.com.au/faq/default.html Q. Do I need to put my Tulips in the fridge? A. This is one of our most commonly asked questions, and is the topic of much confusion. Tulips do not need refrigeration if you live in a climate that has cool-cold winters, even though the summers may be warm. (Don’t forget that Tulips are dormant during summer and if lifted and stored correctly, will survive the hot weather quite happily.) It is only if you live in a climate that is warm all year round that you would need to refrigerate the bulbs, as this simulates the cold winter the bulbs otherwise would not receive during the winter months. There are some important factors to consider when storing your bulbs in the fridge, but to understand these fully it helps to know a little bit about the life cycle of a Tulip bulb. TULIP LIFE CYCLE Tulip bulbs are planted in late April or May, when the weather has cooled, and about 6-8 weeks after flowering when the foliage begins to turn yellow, the bulbs are dug. It is important to leave the foliage on the plant as the bulb feeds off this dying foliage in order to help produce next seasons flower. (Remember that if you pick the flowers, leave some foliage on the plant for this reason.) After digging, the bulbs are dried, cleaned and then stored. It is during this dormancy period that next seasons’ flower will form inside the bulb. At this important time, it is crucial for the bulbs to be stored correctly. To do this, clean and dry the bulbs, separating the smaller baby bulbs. After drying you can dust with an insecticide to prevent aphids, however this is optional. Store in a cool, dark, airy position. (See above for more storage tips.) Ensure that the temperature during storage is between 16-23 degrees celcius. As the bulbs need storage for many months (they should not be planted again until late April/early May) it is important to get things right! Remember to check on them occasionally, just in case some little nasties (aphids!) fly in for a feast. REFRIGERATION If you decide to refrigerate your Tulip bulbs, store them in their paper packaging (or an old mesh bag, such as those oranges are packed in) in the crisper section. Store for 6-8 weeks, and most importantly, do not store fruit and vegetables in the fridge at the same time. This is because some (not all) fruit and vegetables produce ethylene gas which can be very detrimental to the bulbs. Remember that they are in the process of producing next years flower inside, and exposure to ethylene gas at this time can cause the flower buds to dry up and die, and also affect growth performance. If you are storing your Tulips in the fridge every year, but are frustrated that they do not flower and appear poorly, this could be the reason. Refrigerated Tulip bulbs will flower earlier and this can be of benefit if you are timing flowering for a wedding or other special occasion. The longer time spent in the fridge, the earlier the bulbs will flower.

I‘m afraid they should have been planted or set overwater last year in October and kept cold since then. I don’t know how well they’ll succeed now since they’ve started to shoot but have no roots to sustain them. Sadly, it’s not unlikely that the flowers will abort or have already done so within the bulbs. I think your best bet would be to pot them up immediately and continue to keep them cool for a few more weeks in the hope they'll produce enough roots to flower properly. Here are some of mine from November in a previous year. Note the huge amount of roots they already have compared with the size of the shoot.

I don't know why I don't force hyacinths. I LOVE them, although surprising haven't had them in my garden in years. I think one or two around the house in late winter would be lovely. Love the pink Fondant. Funny, aside from a few paperwhites and an amaryllis, I haven't done any forcing in years, although several times I have done a workshop about forcing bulbs for my local library... The years I did a program I did make a pot of tulips for myself. Mine too lived in the garage until time to come in the house. :) Dee