Organic, did the seller of the bulbs understand that you wanted to "force" these bulbs for flowering at a particular date? Ordninarily bulbs are bought in the fall...and the seller is advised the nature of 'forcing' is wanted. They then sell you the type of bulb that is more in line with how you are bringing them to bloom. In other words, for forcing, they would sell you a bulb that forces well. Normal bulbs require 14 to 15 weeks of cooling. Your pre-chilled then must only be required to 'fill in' the remaining weeks. The refrigerator then is the only place at this time you can hope for continuing the cooling process. Just subtract the number of weeks in the fridge from the rquired 14. If your bulbs were given a pre-cooling of ....say 8 weeks, then you would be required to finish the remaining 6 in the fridge. They need a temperature of between 35�F and 50�F...so the fridge is the ideal place. Be sure though to not put them into a crisper with other fruit. Plus, these are living plants...bulbs. They must be given a medium to grow their roots in and they must be kept damp. When they do acquire roots, then they are brought out to the sunshine which will target the production of bloom. Into each pot, 3 hyacinths can be planted; 6 tulips in the other. Put the bulb with the flat side toward the outer edge of the pot...this will produce the initial leaves pointing out..the first leaves will grow outward then from its neighbors. If you are using clay potting, be sure to soak it overnight before placing soil into it. Fill each pot loosely with potting soil; the tops of the bulbs should be even with the rim. Don't compress them, just open the soil, place the bulb in. Then water. As the soil settles you can then add more soil but leave room for future watering. The pot must drain. Label each pot so that you know who's who and when you planted it. It does appear if you can give it the cooling required, your end of May date might just be possible. Delaying of bloom is brought about by denying sunlight, withdrawing so much water and otherwise put the bulb back in time to come to bloom. I hope the guests appreciate how you have brought so much flowering into the day. If it works, you can then boast how you made it happen. Good luck....but please, if you do make this happen, don't do what other parents have done...named their children some dopey name like May, or Flower, or Tulip....or Hope or Charity........

All hardy bulbs need a period of cooling at temperatures between 35úF - 50úF (2C - 10C) to prepare them for later leaf and flower growth. The refrigerator is an ideal place to store them. (keep them away from fruit in the crisper) You haven't said just in what locale you live so I'll assume its not in the sunny south where bulbs are often given a cooling time before sale. 14 - 15 weeks is the period of cooling. If you store them in the refrigerator for more than 3 weeks, subtract 3 weeks from the required cooling time. Many people find a root cellar (coldcellar) is fine and dandy for cooling bulbs. If not there, then a cool part of the basement should be found where they can remain undisturbed but kept moist in soil. In this inactive time they form roots and should be checked weekly. Do not in any way allow the pots to freeze. At the forcing stage, the pots are brought out of their cool environment into warmth and light. This triggers the formation of leaves and flowers. From the time they are removed from the cool they require about 3 to 4 weeks to bloom. To delay bloom, draw them back from the light and give them less water. DO NOT put them into darkness. To hasten bloom give them more light but watch giving them too much water but do keep them moist throughout the forcing period. If starting about now..late September...early October..can be brought to bloom about Christmas. If you plan on cooling a number of bulbs, you might bring only a few to the warmth and prolong the flowering period. The warmth I speak of should be at 60�F and direct sunlight. Rotate the pots regularly ensuring all parts receive adequate sunlight. After forcing, hardy bulbs cannot be forced again. Some bulbs (daffodils) may be planted in the spring in the garden where, over a span of 2 - 3 years, may bloom again. Tulips and hyacinths should be disposed of in the compost.

A search for 'Forcing Hyacinths' turns up as many opinions are there are sites. The best that I saw was the advice on the oldhousegardens.com site. Most agree that the bulbs should not touch the water; the roots will grow down to the water. It's also agreed that using a frost-free refrigerator will require some way to protect the bulbs from drying. 2/16/04 Hyacinthus 'City of Harlem' My way is to prechill the bulbs in a paper bag in a refrigerator drawer (fruit-free) and then put them in a cool utility room in vases of some kind that elevate them above the water. Once they're prechilled, you might be able to keep yours in the garage in vases in your igloo cooler until you see good sprouts and then bring them inside. A little blue mold won't hurt; just wipe it off with a damp cloth when you notice it. Good luck. Nell

Hi dooyensan, Welcome to Garden Web and The Bulb Forum. Where are you located? If you will put your location in the one box provided for the garden zone in your profile, it will be shown on your Member Page and will also automatically be shown whenever you post on the forums. Having one's location is usually quite helpful when asking and answering questions. See I am zone 5/6 S IN Just click on the Member Pages link found in the green banner at the bottom of any page and follow the links from there to update your member Profile. Now, assuming, you 'might' be in a cooler zone, might you be able to leave then in an unheated garage for their chill time, or a crawl space, or a protected area somewhere outside, or with family or a friend? Would you putting your bulbs in sealed containers in the frig maybe be a better option that asking others to seal up all of their fruits and veggies? Sue